Chlorine diaphram Pumps

PWProducts said:
Russ,

Did you know you can use nozzles as small as the ones you use on your surface cleaner? YOU control the amount of chemical that you apply on the roof. You do not have to flood the roof or worry about have the right very large nozzle orifice to apply the chemical. When you use the air diaphragm system, the amount of money that you save in chemical throughout five years will pay for the pump and compressor many times over. The pump will last more than the FIVE year warranty.

Why spend the extra money on the stainless fittings when they will corrode? Brass is a third of the price and will last just as long.

Great questions!



Lori
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Hi Lori,

Great input from all of you guys!!

It comes down to how you want to perform the service. For me it is ALL about time! I could be very careful (and slow) and only apply chemical on the shingles. Or I could get it on the shingles and everything (exaggeration) nearby. Then rinse it all thoroughly and yes, you would end up cleaning more that just the roof but the customer likes that and sometimes leads the customer to expand the job with addons. Because I use a ground man, I am closer to the last way of doing things. The ground man is not just watching. They are on safety watch and rinsing right behind me. By the time I am done and have my gear put away...the groundman is about done rinsing.

But I want to use this pump to spray caustic and acid on decks also. The way we protect the customer's property, already, I can almost use a firehose to apply chems. Small nozzles mist more finely. That mist floats around more than heavier particles/droplets. That fine mist is more likely to float onto things that I preferred to avoid...like me for instance!

As for the stainless vs. brass. I switched to stainless fittings last year and my corrosion problems stopped. I guess it depends on what grade of stainless you use. There are grades of stainless that rust when you scratch them....
 
Scott D. said:
I know you're not into the electric pumps anymore but we have been using the fatboy for over a year, doing 2 roofs a day plus house washes, decks, fences etc....and finally changed it out yesterday and only because of an electrical problem that fried it. It is rated at 7gpm at 60psi. We have done over 50,000 sqft of condos, we have done 20,000 sqft house, etc and never had an issue. There really is no need to spend $1500 on a pump.
Just my 2 cents.
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Hi Scott,

The Fatboy would be my choice if I stay with electrics and it would be easy because I am set up for it. But I found that with electrics, the pressure sensing relay gets fried from constant cycling on/off. I have overcome much of that problem by adjusting that pressure switch (sometimes by maxing it out) to cycle less. But it is still a maintenance issue. I always had two spare switches in the trailer.
The question I have about the Fatboy, will I have those same switch issues and can I reduce the flow in half when I need to...like when I spray caustics and acid on decks? Or do you just flow at 7 GPM and cut the pressure with nozzles and speed along....

SPEED IS GOOD! :grin-devilish:
 
We had an issue with the stock relay switch that came with it when we tried to cut the flow by only opening the ball valve halfway, but as soon as we put an industrial relay on it, we haven't had 1 problem. And we have not had an issue with the pressure switch.

Once we got the battery tied into the trailer harness, we don't even think about the pump anymore. It just works. And the electrical problem we had was a problem with our harness not the pump itself.
 
Scott D. said:
We had an issue with the stock relay switch that came with it when we tried to cut the flow by only opening the ball valve halfway, but as soon as we put an industrial relay on it, we haven't had 1 problem. And we have not had an issue with the pressure switch.
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That's a great piece of info to have.
I still have the first prototype Fatboy from the 08 NOLA RT and it is going strong except for one fried relay. It's nice to know that I can choke it a little without frying it now.
 
Scott D. said:
We had an issue with the stock relay switch that came with it when we tried to cut the flow by only opening the ball valve halfway, but as soon as we put an industrial relay on it, we haven't had 1 problem. And we have not had an issue with the pressure switch.

Once we got the battery tied into the trailer harness, we don't even think about the pump anymore. It just works. And the electrical problem we had was a problem with our harness not the pump itself.
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I have to ask the obvious question. Which industrial relay and where does a person get them?
What is the likelihood of overheating the Fatboy?
 
if i buy a delavan fat boy can i use regular 1/2 inch air hose or do i need chem hose? im guessing just as long as there is no steel in the hose it would be fine right? i think air hose is rated at 300 psi and these chem pumps are only putting out 60 psi. i was just wondering because that chem hose is kinda pricey!
 
I think if you read the specs on your hose it should tell what it is resistant to. Look in a Grainger's catalog etc. I'd hate to have a major failure on a bunch of pricey plant material. We used the clear braided for a season but it was in 100' lengths and the connectors were the weak link.
 
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