Pump Reliability via common sense

Sirocco Jerry

Active member
Would you like to know how to make a "cheep" pump last ??
..or make a good pump last longer ??
"name-calling" by pump brand is a waste of time.
I have chimed-in on pump issues many times with the same statement:

How you use a pump,
.. and how it is plumbed is ALL the difference
in Lifespan, .. and what you have to replace.

We frequently replumb pressure-feed portables inour service department
..with a high-volume bypass,
so they don't overheat in bypass NEARly as easily,
..when you leave the gun off for several minutes.
They should only need seals when you wear them out.

A "replaced" pump..
has the SAME "limitations" as the old one had,
..unless you fix the plumbing problem.

FIX it once, and for all..
..ANY air-leak, kinked hose, plugged filter,
a flow-restrictive fitting, at every opportunity.
"Limited water supply".. of ANY kind, is a problem to reliability.
And DO NOT a pump over-heat in bypass.

Please be clear.. I'm not a flag-carrier for ANY one brand of pump..
I am simply trying to help you'all understand the mechanics of pumps.
"Eliminating the bugs" is my specialty.

Pock-marks, or "rat-bites" in your seals are caused by cavitation. period.

Fabric showing, with scorch-marks means you ran it without water,
or overheated it in bypass. period.

A glazed look, except right at the wear-surface is a "normally" worn seal.

Cracked plungers means you have run it low on water,
or you cavitated the he// out of it.
By the way.. thicker plungers are MUCH more crack-resistant.
I like the rebuildability of the classic TS2021, and it's brothers,
with those thin ceramics are an easy sale in our service department.
AR plungers almost NEVER crack. Comet plungers RAREly crack,
Giant plungers rarely crack.

There is one brand of pump I REALLY don't like..
it is NOT the beefiest as they promote,
..and their seals and other part prices are an insult to a "Cost-Effective" lifespan,
but we know how to make them last as long as (almost) ANY pump.
by plumbing it for "the perfect water supply".

Call your favorite tech with questions.
Paul, Russ, me, someone that understands fluid dynamics.

And remember..
when you convert a system to tank-feed..
use a BIG filter, with a medium-mesh screen,
use a HUGE feed line,
"dual-feed" a pump larger than 5gpm,
bypass back to the holding tank,
REMOVE fittings that are not brass on the inlets of the pump,
and REMOVE the thermal relief !!! ..or it will suck air,
and cavitate your "favorite" seals to an early death.
 
Last edited:
You mean there is a reason I hate those thermal relief valves?
 
Jerry if you dual feed the pumps(i have one of theose pumps your talking about i think)Where would you put the air valve for blowing all the water out in the winter?Mine is a 12gpm pump fed only on one side with a 1 1/2 line.It never seems to jump or act like its not gettting enough water just wondering if i should take the blow out valve out of the other side and feed it with another 1 1/2 line?
 
Does it have gauge ports? Maybe a T to the blowout? Are the blowout valves 100% air tight?
 
Blowout valve on the pump

Jerry if you dual feed the pumps (i have one of theose pumps your talking about i think) Where would you put the air valve for blowing all the water out in the winter? Mine is a 12gpm pump fed only on one side with a 1 1/2 line. It never seems to jump or act like its not gettting enough water.. just wondering if i should take the blow out valve out of the other side and feed it with another 1 1/2 line?

Ya know.. those blow-out air-chuck valves were on every pump system ever made before 3000psi came along,
and they suddenly started to disappear..
We didn't think about it much in San Diego, except when one came down from the mountains with a split head.
On our machines, we have always put a quick-coupler between the unloader and the heater, so they could be drained easily,
..without worrying about the pressure rating of a blow-out valve.
The blowout valves are usually mounted on the high-pressure side of the pump head,
ut the BEST place.. is in a valve-cap over an INlet valve..
That allows the air-blast to push most of the water out of the pump, out through the unloader-valve, etc.

About dual feeding..
definitely add a t at the 1 1/2" line, and run another hose.. a 3/4" or 1" id line, to the alternate inlet..
you'll be glad you did.
 
Last edited:
Great info Jerry, Thanks.
 
Back
Top