Burner issues

Replace the solderless connectors on the wiring. The darkened areas on these indicate arcing usually due to looseness. If it were an overload causing the heating, the wire insulation would be distorted as well, and the fuse would more than likely blow. Double check all the terminals on the back of the burner switch too.

I had to do this to a brand new one a couple of years ago.

Are you on cold meds? Your never up this late. Get some rest


Ron Musgraves text me for questions 480-522-5227 Pressure Washing Institute
 
My Hotsy will be 8 years old next month and it has the same Interstate battery in it, maybe some kind of record.

I had a similar problem a while back, the relays kept on going bad.

Found out that the Hotsy control panel uses 24 volt relays.

I would install a relay from O'Reilly auto parts and the burner would work but once the machine was turned off then it would not turn on again so I changed out the relay and it would work again until I turned it off then time for another new relay.

The Hotsy people checked out the system and put in a new 24 volt relay and no problems, it has been running fine for several years now.

It was very hard to find the 24 volt relay, Hotsy uses them, not sure of who else has them but all the auto parts places locally only have the 12 volt.

Hope this helps.
 
Replace the solderless connectors on the wiring. The darkened areas on these indicate arcing usually due to looseness. If it were an overload causing the heating, the wire insulation would be distorted as well, and the fuse would more than likely blow. Double check all the terminals on the back of the burner switch too.

I had to do this to a brand new one a couple of years ago.

Russ, this sounds exactly what my wire looks like.... I'll post a pic tomorrow
 
12 Volt Burner Reliability

12 volt reliability starts here..
a group 51 or better battery (I like the small footprint of the grp51)
..it is a stout battery commonly used on forklifts. ..and available everywhere.
..I also like using the same battery your truck has, for interchangability at 3AM.
Keep CLEAN battery terminals with stainless steel star-washers and all.
..then spray them with protector grease.
..and if your cable terminals are rusty.. get copper ones ..or suffer downtime. Rust is NEVER a conductor
Use a 20amp fuse (or 25amp if it won't run on the 20)
..and with 10 gauge wire from the battery to the junction that splits power to the HV and burner motor.
..preferrably with fuses protecting the HV and control circuit separately.. 7 amp on th HV and 2 amp on the control circuit.
..the fuse on the HV has saved MANY HV ignitors from low batteries and bad connections !
12 gauge wire to the HV and Burner motor.
..The HV requires a very large start-up current, like a motor does..
..THIS is what generally kills them.. wimpy wiring, wimpy relays, wimpy connections.
..the relay should be rated for 70 amps or better.
TRUST me on this.
anything less, is destined to failure.
I wrote the book on this for Beckett.
 
Hiiiiggghhh VoooLLLtttaaagggge ! ! ._

Nice talking with you today, Jeremy..
I'm glad to help !
.. and, if you or anyone that wants a copy of my up-grade schematics.. ..you need to e-mail me.
I won't post'em.

Hey.. I forgot to mention..
the air still needs to be adjusted,
..but so does the electrodes..
call me back,
..with 30 minutes, a pair of pliers, small adjustable wrench,
a can of carb cleaner, and some junk cardboard.
.. ..and print the image we have on our website of how to adjust burner electrodes for reliability. ..half way down the page.

Oh.. and put a waterproof hand lotion on you hands..
they'll be easier to wash. ..guaranteed.

Do you have a fuel-pressure gauge on that burner ??
A 20 to 30 minute burner adjustment my way, will get you another 2 years out of what you have,
..but do it every 12 months, and never have a down heater, or lost job.

..MAINTAIN-ance man, Maintain..ance

Ooooohhh ! ..that reminds me..
I haven't checked the air filter in my wife's car since uuuhhh ?
..at least I got the cleanable kind ! :{p
 
..I had a similar problem a while back, the relays kept on going bad.
Found out that the Hotsy control panel uses 24 volt relays.
..It was very hard to find the 24 volt relay, Hotsy uses them, not sure of who else has them..

I stock those control relays, with an upgrade schematic for Hotsy's..
in a kit,
..which upgrades the power relay to an 80 amp version..
they NEVER fail.
..and you can use a Flow-Switch to make it safer !

Did you know our heaters coils last TWICE as long as others ??
:{)
 
Once you get the voltage/battery issue fixed you may have to clean the soot from your coil if it is real bad. If not you may just be able to use some soot remover and re adjust the air bands. If you havent done so I would replace the fuel filter as well to get everyting in top shape for proper adjustment so it burns clean.
 
Right on Paul,
I just got off the phone with Jeremy..
Apparently, at the last service at his local service center,
they did a great job getting the electrodes perfect, and air adjustment right, and fuel pressure hasn't changed..
..in other words.. he got really lucky, so..
when he fixed the relay connection, replaced the relay, and fired it up..
voala' .. It cleared it's own throat.
..but yes, He's on his way to get soot remover right now.
 
Good call Paul..
I sent him after some soot remover when we talked this morning.. He's Up and Running !

Why is that? Where are they made?
do you have that machine that twist the metal into a coil or have somebody else do it for ya?

If you read my posts, you'll find I go on, and on, about how plumbing correctly, wiring correctly,
and properly placed control and safety devices is HOW to GET reliability, and especially abuseability.
But.. since you asked a direct question..
We order coils from one of the biggest suppliers of heater-coils to this industry..
Of the hundreds of configurations he makes..
1. We choose from the ones they make the most of.. for fast delivery, and lower cost.. he mass-produces them.
2. We choose schedule 80 coils ONLY.. I don't care if it's going to be a replacement coil in a 200psi steam cleaner,
it's getting schedule 80, which lasts 3 times longer, and is more abuseable. period. (.and costs only about $75 more.)
3. Every coil, before it is shipped, get's a doubled-baffle inside the fire-chamber.
Most of you don't know the baffle is a "wear-item" because the average coil only lasts 7 or 8 years. (.reasons explained above.)
with a 10 gauge stainless baffle.. you get about 7 or 8 years use before the fire burns through,
..and sends the flame straight up through the center of the coil,
giving you strangely lower working temp than you had before,
..and the dancing flames we used to see illegal aliens roasting their hot-dogs over.


WITH the doubled baffles, and the proper controls and safeties, we get the coil to last 12 to 15 years persistently.
 
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First off, I want to thank Jerry for all the help he has given me today. We got up and running for about 15 min, then it shut off, then came on for 30 min, then would just cycle on and off. Jerry had me check the thermostat and that isnt the issue. It will cycle on for 4 min, blower and ignitor will kick in, LED switch light will come on, and the fan will kick on. Then it will go out, in, out, in out. The LED light will go out and the fan will cycle off too. Ran out of daylight and time before it started to downpour to check the pressure switch, which I will do tommorrow. When it did stay on, it was blowing clean with no smoke. It really has me baffeled so if it isnt the pressure switch tommorow, I will try to get in to the local repair shop to have him diagnose it. Thanks to Jerry, I was able to at least limp through the things I needed to get done today. I cant say enough good things about him and I cant wait to get a Sirocco reclaim unit in the future because of the great service and help he has been this week....Thanks to the other guys who have chimed in also to try to help me out!
 
First off, I want to thank Jerry for all the help he has given me today. We got up and running for about 15 min, then it shut off, then came on for 30 min, then would just cycle on and off. Jerry had me check the thermostat and that isnt the issue. It will cycle on for 4 min, blower and ignitor will kick in, LED switch light will come on, and the fan will kick on. Then it will go out, in, out, in out. The LED light will go out and the fan will cycle off too. Ran out of daylight and time before it started to downpour to check the pressure switch, which I will do tommorrow. When it did stay on, it was blowing clean with no smoke. It really has me baffeled so if it isnt the pressure switch tommorow, I will try to get in to the local repair shop to have him diagnose it. Thanks to Jerry, I was able to at least limp through the things I needed to get done today. I cant say enough good things about him and I cant wait to get a Sirocco reclaim unit in the future because of the great service and help he has been this week....Thanks to the other guys who have chimed in also to try to help me out!

To test your pressure switch just connect the 2 wires coming out of it together.
 
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