Get rust stains OUT!

Rust removal, and testing acids

every stain is a little different, but the equation for attacking it, is the same..
you need a "chemical reaction" ..in this case eating action of the acid,
you need "penetrating action" to minimize the scrubbing-effort,
on vertical surfaces.. you need clinging action to keep it from running off, or eveporating too fast.

..back to the chemical (eating) action..
I'd like to know what raw materials work best on..
Red-Dirt stains..
the calcified brown stains from under big Planter-Pots..
Transmission oils stains..
Radiator rust stains..
Machine-rust stains..

primary raw materials are..
Oxalic acid,
Sulfamic acid,
Phosphoric acid,
HydroFlouric acid,
Muriatic Acid .. aka .. Hydrochloric 50% .. or pool acid,

and their opposite.. Sodium Hydroxide..

.and DON'T mix Hydroxides with an acid !
..in fact, you shouldn't mix any chemicals without an idea of what you're doing.
..and wear skin and eye protection !!!

especially know this..
"dillute" does NOT mean it cannot hurt you..
Phosphoric is absorbed into your skin and attacks bone.
people that use hydrofloric and phosphoric in 2-step processes without wearing rain-suits and face-masks are nuts.
..and going to deal with some level of osteoperosis, optical issues, or both.

About the penetrating action..
alcohols and surfactants are blended into acidic and alkaline formulae
Dawn dish soap is cheap n accessible for testing, and has very little alkalinity in it, so you can add it to acids.

OK, now all the chemical salesmen are cringing, so I stop here.
Post your results !

I made this post because you'all need to be able to choose wisely..
use safer chemicals, and stay in business..
Sulfamic acid is the safest acid by FAR !!
Hydroflouric and phosphoric are even NASTier than Muriatic.

..end of safety meeting 234A.
:{)
 
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LOL.. it is by far the best and Safest ever.
Thanks and Kudos to Craig !
F9 is amazing, and I'm ALLways glad to have it on my showroom shelves.
:{)
 
F9 Efflo is our Hydrochloric product (aka Muriatic) but all of our products are buffered and more user friendly that regular acids. F9 Efflo is very strong, the same 31.45% as straight Hydrochloric but is so buffered that it won't burn intact skin and cuts down on fuming by 90% or more. It won't burn your respiratory tract, smells good too, and unlike other hcl products it is much less corrosive on your equipment.

F9 BARC is a blend of acids, surfactants and buffers too. The blend has been worked on over and over to be the safest possible and still be able to get the results we want. It is probably not as safe for the user as F9 Efflo, does contain Phos, ABF and a special proprietary blend of inert rust softeners. Just FYI, Ammonium Bifluoride (ABF) is safer than Hydrofluoric but does produce a small amount of HF in solution. Most other products are anywhere from 3-12% HF. Ours in proper dilution (depending on what you use it for) is anywhere from .3 of 1% to about 1%. There is a big difference in the % of acids in solution and how dangerous they are to the user, and also if they are buffered or not.

At any rate, at a minimum you should always wear gloves and eye protection when using either product.

The product IS safer than most other rust removers on the market and works a heck of a lot better.

Here is a link to the MSDS sheets if you would like to review: http://www.front9restoration.com/technical-data/
 
I have some rust stains on a pool deck from chairs. The pool deck is kind of an off white tannish color. Will the f9 discolor the concrete where the rust is and make it look different than the rest of the pool deck?
 
bgn414 said:
I have some rust stains on a pool deck from chairs. The pool deck is kind of an off white tannish color. Will the f9 discolor the concrete where the rust is and make it look different than the rest of the pool deck?
Click to expand...

Shouldn't as long as you rinse properly, which is Often and much. In my experience.
 
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