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  1. #1
    Member Freshman Undergraduate
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    Keeps Shutting Off !!!!

    Hello all
    Im new here to the forum, im an excellent mechanic and a true DIYer. Im new to pressure washer pumps and so on and would like some direction on a prolbem im having before i dive in and possibly mess something up worse.

    * My Pressure washer is -

    XR2750
    honda motor - 6hp GC190
    Pump is a - Annovi Reverseri / model - SJV 2.5G27-1


    Heres my prolbem.......

    It has always ran excellent from new to now. No prolbems. I let it sit for roughly a year and now it fires up with the trigger depressed, has great pressure but as soon as you let go of the trigger it immeadeatly shuts off. Is there a fix for this ?

    Other than it shutting off when you release the trigger it runs great, lots of pressure but as soon as you let off the trigger its done. Im open to any help. Its been great and dont want to go buy another. Hopfully its something in the pump like pressure release or something simple. But like i said i am new to pressure washer pumps so if there is a fix i might need a bit of guidance.

  • #2
    Equipment Expert 3000 PLUS POSTER Russ Johnson's Avatar
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    Follow this link. It's a breakdown of your pump. Check items 33 & 34. The piston should move freely, and the o ring should be intact.

    http://www.arnorthamerica.com/xjsjpumps/sjv3400bd.html

  • #3
    Member 3000 PLUS POSTER Paul Kassander's Avatar
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    Sounds like it is not going into bypass and you are overloading the engine. There should be a small port inside #25 where that check valve sits and goes on an angle up to where the unloader adjustment is. That may be clogged as well with corrosion. you may need to remove that entire unloder cartridge and clen it up as well. The whole thing should come out as one piece if you put a wrench on it where it goes in the pump #11.

    Next time you put it away for any length of time run some antifreeze through the pump it will protect it from freeze damage, corrosion and keep the seals lubricated. You may want to run it out of gas as well that new reformulated stuff goes bad pretty quick.

  • #4
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    Wow awesome yall. Thanks so very much. Dont know if i have time tonight to do it but hopfully within the next few days. I will do as yall said and post back with results. Thanks again !

  • #5
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    One more ? this is a good one. What type of oil goes in this pump ? never changed it. Whats the best way to do it? Where is the drain valve ? LOL Pause for JOKES

  • #6
    Professors Honorary Professor bhenson's Avatar
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    Non-detergent oil in pump only
    Bryan Henson
    Xstream Pressure Washing
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  • #7
    Equipment Expert 3000 PLUS POSTER Russ Johnson's Avatar
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    Nope. AR has their own synthetic oil for those pumps. It's an axial cam.

  • #8
    Member Senior Undergraduate starbrite's Avatar
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    Excellent call Russ, I never knew that. So, Cat pump oil would be bad?
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  • #9
    Member Sophomore Undergraduate N.A.P.W.O's Avatar
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    In a pinch, non-detergent oil can be used, but one should really use the pump oils made by the manufactures. They are made specifically to protect and prolong the life of the pump. They lean towards a hydrolic-type of an oil and really are not the same as regular motor oil that is non-detergent. It is best to use the oil made by the brand of pump you have, but you certianly could use Cat in GP or visa-versa. It certainly will be better than using a regular motor oil....And Axial pumps, Like Russ said should use the specific oil from the manufacturer as these are usually a sealed crankcase using an oil suited to that.

  • #10
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    Ok y'all..... i bought a new "unloader" for the pump. Brand new out of the package , installed it directly onto the pump. While waiting for the parts i cleaned the inside of the pump as directed as well as took the 3 caps off the top and inspected everything possible for obstructions. The only thing i found was the unloader was completely rusted and froze up. All else with the pump checked out great. I then took the tank off and cleaned it and added fresh gas. I then took apart the carb and cleaned it throughly. Not my first time in this area, done well over 50 or 60 carbs. Used a pice of wire to clean the jets and all the ports + compressed air. New air filter and the plug looked to have plenty of good spark on a bench test " plugged into the cap grounded and pulled pull cord"

    So i hook it all up choked it and on the 2nd pull fires right up. Shut the choke off and Released the trigger on the wand and it cut of as it did prior to installing the new unloader. I squeezed the trigger and tried to re-start. After 2 pulls flipped the choke it fired up. Shut the choke off and ran for about 3 to 5 sec with the trigger compressed and then it shut off. I fiddled with it for a while and gave up.

    So if i compress the trigger fire it up it runs for 3 to 5 sec then dies. I seems the longer intervals between cranking periods the easier and longer it seems to run. If i try and re-start right after it cuts off it normally takes the choke to get it started then it sputters for a bit and quits. " all while the trigger on the wand is compressed." Im stumped, now thinking i have a fueling problem. Im thinking " if I'm correct" that there is a black vacuum pump near the carb that might be bad.

    Open to any help or troubleshooting ideas. Thanks

  • #11
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    Just wanting to throw this out there. Have you checked the oil level? I know that I have seen several people last year selling equipment because it would shut off or would not start only to find out it was low/ out of oil in the engine.
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  • #12
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    Ohhhhh yea its spot on. Right where its supposed to be on the stick. My generator has a LO shut off. I don't think my washer has one but yes its full. GOOD Call.

  • #13
    Assistant Deans 7000 PLUS POSTER Doug Rucker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alpinestar31 View Post
    Ohhhhh yea its spot on. Right where its supposed to be on the stick. My generator has a LO shut off. I don't think my washer has one but yes its full. GOOD Call.
    Please complete your signature...thanks
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  • #14
    Member Sophomore Undergraduate N.A.P.W.O's Avatar
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    Have you checked the fuel flter inside of the gas tank? Honda's use what is called a fuel joint assembly which is a little filter INSIDE of the fuel tank. Being a 6 hp motor you may NOT have that filter, but I'd make sure....

  • #15
    Equipment Expert 3000 PLUS POSTER Russ Johnson's Avatar
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    GC190 doesn't have a filter in the tank.

    Try running it with no gas cap. Maybe the vent is screwed up. Get some carb cleaner and shoot that in the intake under the air filter. See if it runs as long as you keep spraying it. Could be the fuel pump or a clog in the pickup in the tank.

    I'd check the valve train next. Your engine has a belt driven overhead cam. Check the belt for tension and / or missing teeth. Check the valve clearance. Look at the rockers carefully for cracks. I've seen that more than once.

  • #16
    Member 3000 PLUS POSTER Paul Kassander's Avatar
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    I was thinking fuel cap as well, common problem with honda but they usually run longer before they kill. Still seems like a fuel issue to me as well. (stupid reformulated gas)

  • #17
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    Thanks Russ i will check out everything tomorrow evening. I will first check the cap followed by shooting some carb cleaner in the intake like you mentioned. If both fail....... Hopfully not but if so and i go into the motor to Check the cams valves etc. The belt that spins the cam ..... if its loose is there a tensioner i can tighten? If so where is it located..... Also while I'm in there i will check and adjust the valves. Whats the Valve adj for intake and exhaust? Thanks for all the help everyone. Hopfully i can get this thing back running like it should.

  • #18
    Equipment Expert 3000 PLUS POSTER Russ Johnson's Avatar
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    scan0001.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by alpinestar31 View Post
    The belt that spins the cam ..... if its loose is there a tensioner i can tighten? If so where is it located.....
    No, it is not adjustable.


    Also while I'm in there i will check and adjust the valves. Whats the Valve adj for intake and exhaust? Thanks for all the help everyone. Hopfully i can get this thing back running like it should.
    .15 mm intake
    .20 mm exhaust

  • #19
    Exterior Restoration Specialist 21000 PLUS POSTER Ron Musgraves's Avatar
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    Provo Mr. Russ
    Ron Musgraves


    Text Me if you need Help 4805225227

  • #20
    Member Freshman Undergraduate
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    Ok were up and running. I took the fuel pump off and cleaned it the best i could with some carb/injector cleaner and compressed air. Then Adjusted the valves which were loose but sot super bad. I inspected the cam belt and all looked tip top shape. Fresh fuel an new spark plug and 1st pull she busted off..... Ran for 10+ min like a top!!!!! dident even cut off when i let off the trigger. SO im good to go !

    Just want to thank yall for the help and support on helpin me get this thing running again.

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