Paver Cleaning Question

No, not always necessary. If you clean with a surface cleaner you naturally keep most of the sand on top of the pavers. If you do a light mist spray going from bottom up (on a slope) you can learn how to spread the sand back in the joints. It may take 3-4 light rinses but the sand will fall back in and clear water will eventually come down.
 
Use your throttle control, if you have one, to adjust your pressure. Work slow and you can clean the pavers without pulling the sand up. If there is polymeric sand between the joints do not use heat. It will melt out the poly sand. good luck.
 
What they said and always ask the HO what they are planning to do with the pavers after you are done. Sometimes they are going to re seal them. Or they were planning on re sanding them themselves. Sometimes you can upsell a resand job. It's not that hard. After a couple jobs you can build up good speed and make decent $$$.


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Thanks for the input everyone. I have a previous customer that is interested in having their pavers either cleaned and sealed or just cleaned. Its a large driveway 2,000-2,500 sq ft. and another 500 sq ft back porch. I just took a training class for sealing pavers offered by Seal n Lock out of Sarasota, FL. The class was really informative and best of all FREE. I feel like I could clean and seal the pavers properly but its a big job and being my first time sealing pavers its tough to figure out how long it will take to complete. I have a 4000 psi 4gpm machine and I am thinking it ail take two full days to clean, re-sand and seal with me and one other guy. Does that sound about right?
 
2 days is about right Matt, with your equipment. If you are going to seal though, take extra time getting the sand out of the joints. You don't have to go very deep. On most installations its hard to go more than half an inch down even if you are really trying. Then use course (30-20) sand. If you dont have a landscape yard that sells it, go to Home Depot and buy the sand in the builders Isle. It is better than the bags of paver sand in the landscape dept. Course sand fills in better and locks down better with the Sealnlock. Have a stiff brush and blower handy to brush any high sand out, then seal away.
Be ready with the blower though. Don't let the sealnlock puddle. If its not absorbing, blow it off.
Give me a call if you get the job and I can give you some tips.
 
jon chapman said:
2 days is about right Matt, with your equipment. If you are going to seal though, take extra time getting the sand out of the joints. You don't have to go very deep. On most installations its hard to go more than half an inch down even if you are really trying. Then use course (30-20) sand. If you dont have a landscape yard that sells it, go to Home Depot and buy the sand in the builders Isle. It is better than the bags of paver sand in the landscape dept. Course sand fills in better and locks down better with the Sealnlock. Have a stiff brush and blower handy to brush any high sand out, then seal away.
Be ready with the blower though. Don't let the sealnlock puddle. If its not absorbing, blow it off.
Give me a call if you get the job and I can give you some tips.
Click to expand...
Thanks Jon
 
I have recently considered going into sealing, and I don't see where it's really difficult?

I've never done it before, but essentially... wouldn't you just need a good product (sealant), a blower, and a pump up sprayer? If i'm wrong, please correct me.
 
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