Another buffer tank question.

Ralph Q

Ralph Q

New member
I know this has probably been asked and answered before, but 'm going to ask anyway.
I just bought a 100 gallon buffer tank. My problem is the outlet bulkhead fitting is 3/4". I am trying to hook up two machines to it. My question is: Can I just install a bigger fitting (Drill hole bigger) I am thinking 1.5 inch. Then Y or T the hoses down to the machines? I am thinking 2 3/4 tees to both sides of pump. Or should I add another 3/4 bulkhead fitting and go from there.
 
Agree with Michael. Go with 2. As a matter of fact make them both 1inch. You can always reduce to the pump inlet. ( incase you go with a larger machine In the future. ). Better to do it once. Bulkhead fittings cost the same for 3/4 or 1 inch. You could always use that 3/4 your replacing on the opposite side of your dump valve. Then you have water access on each side of the trailer. ( hand washing , bucket filling, tool rinsing etc).
 
FCPWLLC said:
Better to add another bulkhead for the added washer to pull from.
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That's the way I setup my 325 gallon tank. Each washer has its own hose feed.
 
OK another question. What are the pros and cons of mounting the float valve in the cap of my buffer tank? I figure I can put a bulkhead fitting through the cap, mount the float valve and if I ever want to change the configuration, I can put a plug in the bulkhead fitting. Anyone ever do this. It would be easier to service that way too.
 
Ralph Q said:
OK another question. What are the pros and cons of mounting the float valve in the cap of my buffer tank? I figure I can put a bulkhead fitting through the cap, mount the float valve and if I ever want to change the configuration, I can put a plug in the bulkhead fitting. Anyone ever do this. It would be easier to service that way too.
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I was just thinking about doing the same. Currently I have a float valve similar in design to a toilet tank float valve. I am thinking about switching to a Hudson and thought about going through the cap. I have not done it yet.
 
KGILL said:
I was just thinking about doing the same. Currently I have a float valve similar in design to a toilet tank float valve. I am thinking about switching to a Hudson and thought about going through the cap. I have not done it yet.
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It seems like it would be ideal, since you can get at it so easy. But I haven't heard of anyone doing this so I want to hear what everyone thinks.
 
Ralph Q said:
OK another question. What are the pros and cons of mounting the float valve in the cap of my buffer tank? I figure I can put a bulkhead fitting through the cap, mount the float valve and if I ever want to change the configuration, I can put a plug in the bulkhead fitting. Anyone ever do this. It would be easier to service that way too.
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I wouldn't put it in the "man way". It would be a huge PITA to have to unscrew it with a supply line barbed and clamped to it. Have you ever had to drop your injector line in for a rinse? It only takes 15 seconds to use a hole saw on the left, right or both( my set up ) side of the man way ... Same amount of time Into the convex vented man way lid. I wouldn't over complicate it.
 
GrassButler said:
I wouldn't put it in the "man way". It would be a huge PITA to have to unscrew it with a supply line barbed and clamped to it. Have you ever had to drop your injector line in for a rinse? It only takes 15 seconds to use a hole saw on the left, right or both( my set up ) side of the man way ... Same amount of time Into the convex vented man way lid. I wouldn't over complicate it.
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That's exactly what I was thinking, having to unscrew it and I knew that because nobody ever mentioned it, that it was a nonstarter. I'm over thinking again, and it's making this process take way longer than it should. I've had these two machines for a month, and I finally tied them together for a test run , and now I'm psyched and it's full speed ahead!
 
I put mine close to the cap (manway opening) as high as I could so I would not lose much water capacity as the valve will hang down some.

I would not put it in the cap for the same reasons as above but if you chose to use garden hose fittings, you could just unscrew the hose and then spin the cap open to clean out the valve when trash builds up in the metal screen.
 
Ralph Q said:
No pics yet until I get this mess squared away! I am about to order skids for these two machines. To get them off the carts and lower down for the sake of gravity.
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can't you just disassemble the carts? most carts i ve seen were started with a skid base and the cart was added to it, or the skid was mounted to the cart. if so you can get AL right angle brackets to mount your machine. As a matter of fact i may some extras if it helps your set up. any pics of you machines?
 
GrassButler said:
can't you just disassemble the carts? most carts i ve seen were started with a skid base and the cart was added to it, or the skid was mounted to the cart. if so you can get AL right angle brackets to mount your machine. As a matter of fact i may some extras if it helps your set up. any pics of you machines?
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The two carts are in rough shape. And I was thinking of using one of them as my chemical cart. Here is the one I had to fix the engine, the other one is a dewalt 4200 psi home depot special that the pump went bad after 6 months. I replaced the pump with a northstar 5 gpm pump. Took that off. That's my spare now. Now I have a general pump on it. That cart is rusting already too.
 

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You can unbolt the handle. Unbolt the bumper and remove the axle brackets. That's your skid. They make AL brackets that go directly into the bolt holes from the hAndles and bumper bar. The bottom side of the bracket has a hole to mount it to your trailer. Rubber insulator b/W bracket and trailer floor. I think I have a spare set from one of my old 4gpms.
 
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