bulk head fitting with access to only one side, Is it possible

C

Charlie D

New member
My 50 gallon drum buffer tank is sealed so I can't access the inside. I would like to install a bulk head fitting so I can drain the tank before traveling. As it is now we run the machine to drain the tank. There has to be a better way
 
That sounds very easy.
 
There is no bulkhead fitting currently. Just water in from the homeowners hose and water out to the machine. Both are through the top of the machine


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I can't seem to figure out how you're using a tank as a buffer, with no fittings going to a machine, but you can use the machine to drain the tank. I'd need to see a picture, I seem to be missing something haha
 
I meant to say both are through the top of the barrel. So a fill hose goes in the top on and fills the barrel. Another hose goes in through the top to draw the water to the pump.


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Charlie D said:
I meant to say both are through the top of the barrel. So a fill hose goes in the top on and fills the barrel. Another hose goes in through the top to draw the water to the pump.


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Charlie, fill out your sig please....if you need help let me know. Thanks
 
Yes Im using a 55 gallon drum. It is stood upright, no room to set it on its side. Im would like to put a drain spigot down towards the bottom, but I don't think it can be done without cutting the top off to access the inside.

Russ I went to my profile and tried setting my signature, couldn't figure it out.
 
Yes Im using a 55 gallon drum. It is stood upright, no room to set it on its side. Im would like to put a drain spigot down towards the bottom, but I don't think it can be done without cutting the top off to access the inside.

Russ I went to my profile and tried setting my signature, couldn't figure it out

 
I would think if you drilled a hole near the bottom of the barrel, you could thread it and just screw a ball valve into it. As long as it is pipe threading it should't leak. Most of those drums I've seen would be thick enough wall to hold up as long as nothing bumps into it. I have seen that done several times.

Or maybe use a nylon barbed fitting and run a hose somewhere nice and mount the valve to your rig to make it easy to drain. That way there is nothing heavy pulling on the threads.
 
How many GPM are you running? If you're using something like 4-5 GPM you don't need a tank that big anyhow I wouldn't think,..unless you're on some really bad water source. If you're being resourceful though,..as I'm sure many of us have been,..use a 5 gallon bucket if your GPM is in the 4-5 GPM range. A 5 gallon bucket would be easy to modify into a buffer tank,..could even put a float in the lid and simply ad a bung fitting near the bottom.
How are you drawing from the the top of the tank with a PW? Maybe I missed something,...but I didn't think a PW can feed itself? I know gear drive and belt drive can suck due to low RPM's..but I didn't think they could pull water through the top of a tank.

* I agree with with Benjamin though,..a regular tank that you can run a by-pass into and even ad a float valve is only $100.00 for a 35 gallon tank from Tractor Supply.

Jeff
 
Go to your local marine supplier and get one of the bungs that go in the hull of a boat. They require about a 20mm hole and screw on from the outside with a couple of self tapping screws. Easy as. I have a 40 litre header tank with one in each side and I take out which ever bung is closest to me when I'm packing up.
 
When i first started I used a drum (two of them) I cut the tops and Epoxied I believe a 3" pvc inspection cap to the tops right in the middle. That will give you room to get in there and work. Makes a nice little chem tank too. The hole is big enough to get in and stir up the mix and seals pretty good too. A tip though is to drill a couple tiny holes in the side of the cap for vents if you use one for chem.


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Run the fitting from inside with a wire.
 
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