Chemicals on driveway, pre-treat/post-treat?

a great sales tool

I have found that pre-treating with my house wash (20% bleach and some roof snot) and then post treating with same not only does a great job on the worst driveways but is a great sales tool. When I go up against a $150 driveway, patio and sidewalk bid, once I explain our "4 step cleaning process" (pre treat, surface cleaner, rinse, post treat), show (or text) some pictures, it's amazing how, all of a sudden, my $350 bid seems like the better deal; especially when I tell them that if they aren't happy, they owe nothing. By the way; I've always been paid. Our industry is so full of "fly by nighters" that a professional presentation stands out. I always carry a copy of my certificate of insurance and go to great lengths to explain how and what we do, and why. Something else I do. I use "bleach" as a sales tool. I make sure they know what is going to kill their algae and black gunk on their house or driveway. They use it to clean their commode and their laundry, why not their house? I've owned a number of business's and I've never seen one where a professional presentation (and web site) make such a difference in selling a job.
 
Ive been practicing washing drive ways, and my mix drys too fast. Im in Houston and where having 90+ degrees days now. I'm DS 1gal Sh to 1 water with elemenator, and i normally spray from the end of the drive way up to the garage. Im not moving slow but by the time i turn around the end is dry or about to be dry, and it suppose to stay wet to dwell a little. When i hit it with surface cleaner it still come out perfect but just want to know if anyone else is having the problem. Also the driveway is only a 600sqft drive.
 
Hey Jeff, I have the same size machine and surface cleaner. I use just water 99% of the time when doing residential.



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Hey George, I'm a part time guy doing strictly driveways/sidewalks/patios in NC and running a Simpson 4200psi/4gpm and just upgraded the surface cleaner to a 20" Hammerhead. I watched a couple of your vids and had a couple of ?'s for you-

What do you use for pre treatment? I use Krudkutter's driveway concrete cleaner product downstream thru the machine. Sometimes ZEP's similar product. They seem to be very effective.

I noticed you don't run the Hammerhead pressure line thru the second tube. I saw someone else didn't either. Why is that?

What about water reclamation? I didn't see in the two vids I watched that you are doing that. Obviously I'm not running a truck mount with the ability to have large scale equipment that can do that. Recommendation for doing that?

Lastly, if I need to or should(?) lower the pressure on the machine to insure no surface damage will I need to change out the nozzles that come standard with the Hammerhead?

Thx!
 
a great sales tool

I have found that pre-treating with my house wash (20% bleach and some roof snot) and then post treating with same not only does a great job on the worst driveways but is a great sales tool. When I go up against a $150 driveway, patio and sidewalk bid, once I explain our "4 step cleaning process" (pre treat, surface cleaner, rinse, post treat), show (or text) some pictures, it's amazing how, all of a sudden, my $350 bid seems like the better deal; especially when I tell them that if they aren't happy, they owe nothing. By the way; I've always been paid. Our industry is so full of "fly by nighters" that a professional presentation stands out. I always carry a copy of my certificate of insurance and go to great lengths to explain how and what we do, and why. Something else I do. I use "bleach" as a sales tool. I make sure they know what is going to kill their algae and black gunk on their house or driveway. They use it to clean their commode and their laundry, why not their house? I've owned a number of business's and I've never seen one where a professional presentation (and web site) make such a difference in selling a job.
Isn't there a concern, an EPA issue with bleach running off and into sewer or the drainage system in residential neighborhoods?
 
Cleaned at least 200 driveways this year. Pre-treating saves time by making it a lot easier to clean, does a better job, works on stubborn stains. Post treating brightens and keeps cleaning, removes the stubborn stains and any lap or stripes remaining. I know for a fact that post treating cleans and brightens a few shades whiter. And all the driveways that I have post treated on are clean a lot longer. I use 1800 psi to clean concrete, and rarely have issues of stripping cream off of concrete. Not pre-treating means obviously using a lot more pressure to achieve the same result.
Ralph what is the post treatment you apply? I hear some percentage of bleach being used by some folks, however, that can be a potential EPA fine ($ubstantial) if it's running off the property and into the wastewater street drains.
 
Ralph what is the post treatment you apply? I hear some percentage of bleach being used by some folks, however, that can be a potential EPA fine ($ubstantial) if it's running off the property and into the wastewater street drains.
Waste water is a sanitary Drain, Storm water travels to Storm Drains. Wash Water can be discharged into either if the MPDS permit holder allows
 
Waste water is a sanitary Drain, Storm water travels to Storm Drains. Wash Water can be discharged into either if the MPDS permit holder allows
Sure but once you add chemicals- depending on just what, now you have an animal of a different color and that may trigger an EPA issue or violation.
 
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