Scott Stone
New member
There are typically two different types of belts on pressure washers. AX belts are the cogged belts. They seem to last longer because the cogs allow them to flex more as they go around the pulleys. BX Belts are the solid belts. The sheaves (the pulley) are designed for each type of belt, and there is a lot that goes into the proper sizing of a belt. If you are in a pinch, you can go to a big box hardware store and find replacement belts. The problem with that is finding the belt with the proper width, and the proper angle to go into the sheave, and not throw the belt.
I buy my belts at a local Bearing Belt and chain store. It is amazing to me, but these guys know belts, and only sell quality stuff.
When you are adjusting the belts to prepare your equipment, or repair your equipment, you need to pay attention to a couple of things, usually, in order to make sure that they are properly adjusted. First is how much flex that they have when under load.
In order to install belts on any piece of equipment there are a few things that you need to do.
1. Make sure that the belts are the proper length. The outside of the belt should be at the edge of the sheave or pulley, so that it is flat.
2. Make sure that the V-Section in the groove is the same. If they are not the same you have the wrong belts and they will wear quicker.
3. Make sure the sheaves are aligned. If you are able to make the belts work, they will wear out more quickly.
4. Clean the interior of the sheaves so that there is no residual rust, dust, or rubber in them to potentially damage he belt
5. If you have multiple belts, and I have not seen a pressure washer that didn't have multiple belts, replace both at the same time, and preferably from the same lot.
6. Make sure the sheave is solid and does not having missing parts, is not cracked or broken.
7. Loosen the bolts of the adjustable side of whatever you are mounting it on, usually the pump, and slide it so that there is total slack in the old belt, or is adjusted all the way in. Do not use a tool to work the belt onto the sheave. It will break internal cords and damage the exterior of the belt.
8. When you adjust the belt to tighten it, the ratio is you should have enough deflection to get 1/64" per inch of travel between the pulleys. That means, if you measure between the center of the pulley on your pump, and the center of the pulley on your machine, and there is 64 inches, you get one inch of deflection. If there is 32 inches, it is a half inch, and if it is 16 inches, you get all of the mighty quarter inch.
9. After you have adjusted the belts, made sure that you have the proper tension, and that everything is in alignment so that they belts do not have a little bend in them as they come off the pulley, you can tighten down the retaining nuts, and start the machine to make sure there is no slipping. If you really want to get high tech, you can get a timing light, like they used to use to tune cars, and put a mark on the belts, and start the machine, to make sure the belt is not slipping.
I buy my belts at a local Bearing Belt and chain store. It is amazing to me, but these guys know belts, and only sell quality stuff.
When you are adjusting the belts to prepare your equipment, or repair your equipment, you need to pay attention to a couple of things, usually, in order to make sure that they are properly adjusted. First is how much flex that they have when under load.
In order to install belts on any piece of equipment there are a few things that you need to do.
1. Make sure that the belts are the proper length. The outside of the belt should be at the edge of the sheave or pulley, so that it is flat.
2. Make sure that the V-Section in the groove is the same. If they are not the same you have the wrong belts and they will wear quicker.
3. Make sure the sheaves are aligned. If you are able to make the belts work, they will wear out more quickly.
4. Clean the interior of the sheaves so that there is no residual rust, dust, or rubber in them to potentially damage he belt
5. If you have multiple belts, and I have not seen a pressure washer that didn't have multiple belts, replace both at the same time, and preferably from the same lot.
6. Make sure the sheave is solid and does not having missing parts, is not cracked or broken.
7. Loosen the bolts of the adjustable side of whatever you are mounting it on, usually the pump, and slide it so that there is total slack in the old belt, or is adjusted all the way in. Do not use a tool to work the belt onto the sheave. It will break internal cords and damage the exterior of the belt.
8. When you adjust the belt to tighten it, the ratio is you should have enough deflection to get 1/64" per inch of travel between the pulleys. That means, if you measure between the center of the pulley on your pump, and the center of the pulley on your machine, and there is 64 inches, you get one inch of deflection. If there is 32 inches, it is a half inch, and if it is 16 inches, you get all of the mighty quarter inch.
9. After you have adjusted the belts, made sure that you have the proper tension, and that everything is in alignment so that they belts do not have a little bend in them as they come off the pulley, you can tighten down the retaining nuts, and start the machine to make sure there is no slipping. If you really want to get high tech, you can get a timing light, like they used to use to tune cars, and put a mark on the belts, and start the machine, to make sure the belt is not slipping.