Putting a new rig together, need advice!!!!!!

Hreyes

Hreyes

Member
Good morning all,
I am going to be putting together my first rig hopefully next week, nothing fancy I have a 13hp motor (predator) and will be using that. I will need to buy a pump to pair with the engine, I been looking at the general pump EZ3042S is a 4.2gpm, 3000psi @ 1750rpm. Is this a decent pump or should I look at a different one? I have notice that there are pump made to run at 1750rpm and at 3400rpm which one is better? (I would think the slower one since there is less friction right?) My engine is rated at 3600rpm so I know I need to buy pulleys to reduce the speed at the pump. I will be using a 4.25” at motor and 8.5” at pump, that way I have a 2:1 ratio. I am on the right track right? Should I buy single or double grove pulleys? Does anyone have any pointers that I need to consider while putting the new rig together? Thanks in advance and have a great day!!!


H. Reyes
 
With a 13 hp engine i would run a 5.6@2500 pump. If your soft washing you dont need that much psi and for concrete you dont need much higher psi unless your doing commercial. If you have another machine that you could use for concrete you can even go as high as an 8gpm at 1700psi for this one. As for gear/belt ratios and speed i dont know too much about that. You will want a double grove pulley as a minimum. A triple would be better but even i dont have that yet.
Is this new rig a trailer?
 
Donte55 said:
With a 13 hp engine i would run a 5.6@2500 pump. If your soft washing you dont need that much psi and for concrete you dont need much higher psi unless your doing commercial. If you have another machine that you could use for concrete you can even go as high as an 8gpm at 1700psi for this one. As for gear/belt ratios and speed i dont know too much about that. You will want a double grove pulley as a minimum. A triple would be better but even i dont have that yet.
Is this new rig a trailer?
Click to expand...

Good morning Donte,

Thanks for a fast response.......I did not think a 13hp could push a pump that big. I wanted a 5.0gpm pump but did not wanted to buy a 22hp engine, well in that case I also had look at the EZ2555S, this one is a 5.5gpm, 2500psi @ 3400rpm which I would not have to gear down I can just do a 1:1. Most of what I will be doing is residential driveways and some softwashing, will this be enough PSI for driveways? yes this will be put on a trailer but I am going to make it kind of modular since I only have one trailer at the time and cant permanently mount it, I will have a skid for engine and pump, a small 10-15 gallon chemical thank and a HP hose reel and a garden hose reel with a tool box to put rest of stuff in there.
 
You could run a 12 gpm pump with a 13 hp engine, you just sacrifice all pressure. Again not sure on gear ratios i haven't built a machine yet. I bough my first machine a 4@4k because i wanted to wash concrete at 2500psi. And when your pump starts at that you are going to have pressure lose with hose and tip friction. I found that even 2500psi was too much for some concrete. I now run at approx: 1750 psi, this also allows me to do exposed aggregate driveways, pool decks, and some softer material driveways without changing the tips. That being said i do like the ability to go higher if i need to, but have yet to go back to 2500psi.
At 5.5gpm you are really maxing out what residential homes spigots can put out, and a buffer tank should be in place. Which means a more permanent solution for mounting everything. For right not a simple 55gal drum could be used for a portable buffer tank, so you can move it off the trailer when needed.
 
Donte55 said:
You could run a 12 gpm pump with a 13 hp engine, you just sacrifice all pressure. Again not sure on gear ratios i haven't built a machine yet. I bough my first machine a 4@4k because i wanted to wash concrete at 2500psi. And when your pump starts at that you are going to have pressure lose with hose and tip friction. I found that even 2500psi was too much for some concrete. I now run at approx: 1750 psi, this also allows me to do exposed aggregate driveways, pool decks, and some softer material driveways without changing the tips. That being said i do like the ability to go higher if i need to, but have yet to go back to 2500psi.
At 5.5gpm you are really maxing out what residential homes spigots can put out, and a buffer tank should be in place. Which means a more permanent solution for mounting everything. For right not a simple 55gal drum could be used for a portable buffer tank, so you can move it off the trailer when needed.
Click to expand...
Great post.
 
I would rethink the predator all reviews on here have been negative you can score a 14hp kohlor for a few bucks more would hate to get all your stuff together an the motor go pop first couple months ya know.
 
Kiloman said:
I would rethink the predator all reviews on here have been negative you can score a 14hp kohlor for a few bucks more would hate to get all your stuff together an the motor go pop first couple months ya know.
Click to expand...
The negative reviews are for the 22 hp . the 13's have been around a while and seem to last. Myself I would go with Honda from now on. Learned my lesson.
 
For small engine the kohlor would be my choice i had both as back ups an the edge went to the kohlor nice hp for the money an could get a bit more performance.I have a big honda on my hydrotek an have 0 complaints at all.
 
Get this pump

http://www.propowerwash.com/board/u...635-pumps-for-your-pressure-washer-super-sale

You won't go wrong with this pump as it has a good size and reliability is right up there.

Pully's, go with a double, a single will work, the double just is extra insurance and reliability. Run good cog belts, ie Napa or some NA belt as china belts die quick.

Engines, honda or kohler is both fine, stay away from a briggs unless you enjoy working on engines vs making money.

I have never bought a manufactured pressure washer, always built my own in the 9 years I have been doing this. I have made many mistakes along the way trying to cut corners, but have learned my lessons.
 
A 13 hp motor will barely push a 5.6 at 3500 psi pump. At 13 hp, you should get 2000-2250 psi out of that pump at full volume. I would put quick disconnects on the motor, so you can change it out quick when it fails, because it will fail. I would not and have not used a predator, because I need reliability that I don't feel they provide.
 
Scott he does not need 3500 Psi, the 2000 psi you mentioned is what he is looking for.

I do agree on the predator though, been there and done that with a different engine but with the same results. My engines now cost more then what most spend on entire pressure washer, but assuming I have 10 years left in this industry I will never be replacing them again. If you need to go cheap to start that is fine, but it always comes back to bite you when work needs to be done and your replacement options suck.
 
Thanks guys for all the info greatly appreciated, and like I said I had the predator already that is why I am going to use it. When it fails I will replace it with a Honda, Well I just finish receiving all my parts. I will finish putting it together today or tomorrow I will post some pictures when I am done.

Here is what I have (top of my head might forget something):

13HP Predator Engine
GP EZ3045G (4.6gpm 3000psi)
Pulsar 3KHP unloader valve with EZ start
GP High Draw Injector kit from (Pressure Tek)
20" BE Whirl-A-way surface cleaner
150' Goodyear non-marking HP hose
150' HP hose reel
Suttner ST-2315 Gun
36" & 48" SS lances
4 nozzle J-rod
5000 psi Test Gauge
*X-Jet M5 from my home use PW (can I get a new orifice for it to match my new machine? this one is for a 2-3gpm)

Need to get:
Garden hose and Reel
Buffer tank
and maybe a 15 gallon chemical tank.

Might of have forgotten something but this is pretty much where I am at.

Thanks for all the advice and help!!!!
 
Your pretty much on your way Hector. One other item to look into is either build an "injector by-pass" or purchase one already built. When "Not" downstreaming, Flip the ball valve to gain additional flow without breaking your line open...

Mike
 
clean2be said:
Your pretty much on your way Hector. One other item to look into is either build an "injector by-pass" or purchase one already built. When "Not" downstreaming, Flip the ball valve to gain additional flow without breaking your line open...

Mike
Click to expand...

Thanks Mike, will look in to adding the injector bypass.

Item update I knew I forgot something:

I also have a HP ball valve to switch while engine is running!


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