Filling Another Gap,...Maybe?

Yes, you would use a bypass pump. When you release the trigger gun, line pressure build up closes the check ball in the injector body.

Mike
 
I don't think there's been enough done with this idea to set anything as standard or as a starting point. I've seen enough posts on various boards to make me think it works. BUT,.it isn't very widespread,..and espec stopped selling their tool for some reason? I'ts not discussed to any great degree anywhere,.but I've seen some of the vendors endorse this idea through various posts.

*I will be letting the board know what I come up with and what works and doesn't work.

Jeff
 
Jeff, I remember having a conversation with Bob at PressureTek about this and he did mention that using a pump through the downstream injector will weaken the spring so you would have to replace the spring or you might have water getting into the chemical tank when the spring gets weak but I don't remember anything about on demand pumps or anything like that. This was a conversation a long time ago. He mentioned that he told this to many contractors and people have done this when they needed a stronger mix but did not bring up the X-jet or talk about it during this conversation. My guess why espec is not selling the pump is that many contractors can buy the pump locally for less money and rig it up themselves and try it out. So many conversations I have had that I have forgotten about.
 
Ok,..I've used this force feeding idea for several jobs now,.and I must say it really solves the issue. I added a 3-way valve on the inlet side of the 12V pump,..one side for SH and the other side is tied into my water supply tank and when I'm ready to rinse the injector system out,...I simply turn the valve to the water side.

What's really nice is the flexibility the force feeding gives me. Where without force feeding the 8 GPM pump last season ,..I would just have it pulling wide open.

I have the 12V pump wired into the solenoid and both turn on and off at the same time with the remote.

But now,using the little 1 GPM 12V to force feed,.......even at 10 GPM I only really need to open the valve about 1/4" of the way,.and that is a plenty strong mix for house washing. When I open it full for concrete or something else bad,.it makes a REALLY strong mix for DS'ing. Very flexible,.and I'm really liking it.

An added huge benefit so far is NOT HAVING TO UNSTICK THAT STUPID LITTLE CHECK BALL, Ha,Ha The pump has enough PSI to dislodge it.


Jeff
 
Great information Jeff, Thank you.

Can you shoot chemicals just as high using the chemical injection or does it somehow restrict the height some?

Thank you.



Ok,..I've used this force feeding idea for several jobs now,.and I must say it really solves the issue. I added a 3-way valve on the inlet side of the 12V pump,..one side for SH and the other side is tied into my water supply tank and when I'm ready to rinse the injector system out,...I simply turn the valve to the water side.

What's really nice is the flexibility the force feeding gives me. Where without force feeding the 8 GPM pump last season ,..I would just have it pulling wide open.

I have the 12V pump wired into the solenoid and both turn on and off at the same time with the remote.

But now,using the little 1 GPM 12V to force feed,.......even at 10 GPM I only really need to open the valve about 1/4" of the way,.and that is a plenty strong mix for house washing. When I open it full for concrete or something else bad,.it makes a REALLY strong mix for DS'ing. Very flexible,.and I'm really liking it.

An added huge benefit so far is NOT HAVING TO UNSTICK THAT STUPID LITTLE CHECK BALL, Ha,Ha The pump has enough PSI to dislodge it.


Jeff
 
Hey Christopher,...force feeding the injector does nothing but increase the percentage,..other than that,..everything stays the same,..simple as that.

I really like the adjust ability,..yesterday I had (2) houses that had heavy green mold on one side only,..I was able to simply turn the 1/4" ball valve open more and make a stronger mix ,..just for the bad side,..it was so much more effective than the regular mix,..and I didn't have to do anything but turn the valve,..and then turned it back. Kinda like the way the Pro-Portioner works,... So I'll call it a "Mini-Prop"

Or you can switch it up for concrete or dryvit, etc, etc..

Oh and it REALLY filled the gap,..thread topic stated. And it's not "maybe" anymore.

Jeff
 
Jeff, you are that McGyver type. you are constantly doing new stuff, exploring,building, innovating. I like the stuff you post, always informative.
 
Hey, Thanks Steven,..being recognized as a McGyver is good,.."I guess",..Ha,Ha,..

@Hal,.If you'd read my some of my original posts you'd see that I mention about it being talked about on a few different boards,..I'm just bringing it back to light,.so,.don't worry,..I'm not trying to steal "Johns" thunder. *But,.I didn't see anyone ever posting about using it with a remote system as I am?


And after doing this now for several jobs,..and seeing the difference it makes with theses high GPM machines,.the people who did try it or stopped using the idea,..must have had issues I'm not having,.at least not yet,..and don't really foresee. The only real thing would be the 12.5% abusing the little 12V pump. If I had to change it once a week,.I'd still do it. So worth the advantage of flexibility!

I was doing a house wash yesterday and it had a white, rough cut brick chimney that had fairly heavy black and green mold,.I turn the valve on the 12V to full open,.and it made the mold(s) disappear and I was able to rinse with a 0040 soap nozzle,..very impressive,..and I didn't have to get out a dedicated pump. And when I was done with the chimney,..I simply turned th valve back to 1/4 turn for the rest of the house.


Jeff
 
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