Hood Draping Methods

Hayden,

Have tried all kinds of magnets (opposing; straight; mechanics; those that hold 'clips'; etc). In that they do not work well on stainless and are hardly worth the effort on galv., they don't even rate a mention. You are wasting your time.

Richard
 
The first thing that we do at the location is clean the outside of the hood so that we can have a clean line for the tape. We clean the outside of the hood a regular part of the service. I will look at the order number for the tape. I buy the tape from the same people that sell us our plastic.
 
I use magnet whenever possible. Some SS will work some won't. You can buy the magnets from Rusty. They are 100 lb rated and not cheap, $10 for one. I keep 6 in my box, and could use 10 sometimes for my wrapping methods.

As for the picture above. The plastic is wrapped around a suppression pipe thar wouldn't come loose for removal. The clamps a above a char-broiler that the fire pipe runs into the bottom of. I should have taken a picture without the plastic, this would have been a good one for how not to run yur fire suppression. Maybe it will still be this way next service, it was supposed to have been changed about 6 mo ago.
 
Magnets will not stick to stainless steel they will however stick to the impuities in stainless steel, but not very well. So if you have a customer with bottom dollar stainless you might get a magnet to stick, but I have never come across one that will hold a drape.
 
Josh, please post a picture of the fire suppression system piping. I cannot visualize the pipe run from your description.

I like your closing note about sticks and stones. Did RustyAce give you that one?

Douglas Hicks
General Fire Equipment Co of Eastern Oregon, Inc
 
Richard,

the tape we sometimes use is Nashua, grey requires bleachy pre- wipe. Does the white have extra special adhesive? The silver, is that the metallic?

we also carry six 3 foot bar magnets for glavinized hoods. they slap right up on the sides. they're a bear to take off - have to slide them down to break the bond, that's how strong they hold.
 
Grant-

This picture is for you. I'm not sure of the quality of SS, but this magnet sticks very well. I have several SS accounts which work very well with magnets. This is a very strong magnet, 100 lb pull.

Douglas-

The picture is posted a few posts up. The upper couple of clamps are onto the pipe. The charbroiler is under the rolled and clamped run of plastic. It's hard to describe. The nozzle is pointed and fastened in the flame area of the charbroiler. The pipe runs into the top of the hood, about 6' over the broiler.
 

Attachments

  • magnet pic.jpg
    magnet pic.jpg
    13.5 KB · Views: 143
Last edited:
Josh I have a few of those, the pipe comes directly through the top of the hood. Most of the time they have a union so you can disconnect it and get it out of the way, if you can't move them they can be a challenge.
I didn't realize so many people used tape, while I do carry it I rarely need to use it, I think you could clamp the plastic to the hood just as easy if not easier than dealing with the tape.
 
Tape method

This is a McDonalds Fryer hood . You can see the tape holding up the sides. This is the 2" clear packing tape used on about every box mailed. The cheap stuff works as good as the high price stuff. There is twice as much on a roll. Sticks to almost any surface. If the area is real greasy just wipe it with degreaser and wipe dry.
 

Attachments

  • im000692.jpg
    im000692.jpg
    44.9 KB · Views: 164
So you use just clear 2 inch tape and clamps? I aked this question before and got hammered with neg. feedback.
 
Dave, Thats it. Tuck in where you can along the back with a flexable 1" putty knife. Wrap, tape, funnel and clamp. Ready to go in about 20 minutes. 20 minutes for all 3 hoods. In and out in about 2 hrs. This includes pulling the equipment and putting it back. 2 man crews rule.

Badda Bing Badda Boom.
 
Well if ya look at those pictures, most of the plastic is clipped to edges of the hood. Additionally you will see that some of the ceilings are drop ceilings. What I do is clip the outside plastic to the ceiling track. sometimes it is a foot or more away from the outside of the hood. It is kinda like a shower curtain. This way the person doing the blasting doesnt step on and trip on the plastic. This also allows a low pressure wash and rinse of the outside of the hood.

ED
 
Be careful with pressure-washing the outside of hood. I'm sure Ed doesn't need advice - he has been doing this for a long time - but our experience may help others. We wanted to do an extra-good job therefore clipped the drape back as Ed notes, and shot the outside. We smugly took great pride in the results - until we let the drape fall. The old adage is true - 'pride goeth before a fall'. The overspray 'cleaned' the white ceiling tiles. We now had a clean hood surrounded by a 1 foot ring of white. Looked terrible. Very noticeable. What a mess. You must pay for every good deed. We no longer include outside service in our cleaning - and yet have maintained 100 percent clientele retention.

Richard
 
in situations were over spray is an issue, try scrubbing with a green nylon pad and rinsing it with out the tip
 
Richard.
Why not sell the customer on kitchen ceiling cleaning. You already did a demo of how that ceiling should look when it's clean! Not kidding we do alot of our customer ceilings once or twice a year. spray with sodium hydroxide/ liquid dawn soap mixture let dwell for 5 or 10 minutes and rinse with low pressure hot water rinse. hardest part is to drape all equipment and electrical components.vacuum all that hits the floor.
 
Back
Top