Unloader troubles

I need assistance with an unloader. I have a Giant flow type on a 4.5/3500 machine. I use it for backup and the second person etc.. I use it just a couple of months ago with a 16' whirl-away with no problems. We went use it last Friday night and it barely starts to spin and the unloader kicks into bypass. Nothing has changed on the machine or cleaner so I am guessing it is the unloader itself. Should I replace it or is it rebuildable?

No clogs in the nozzles? How old is the unoader? Flow controlled unloaders can be rebuilt, but the cost of the kit and the time involved sometimes isn't worth it. If the housing is worn at all, the kit won't last. I'll check and see what a kit costs for it and let you decide. Is it the square bodied Giant? If it's got a model number stamped on it, that would be helpful.

Thanks for the info. It is the square one and it is pretty old (6 yrs?), I can't read anything on it. Still works fine at around 2200 psi but anything over that and it starts cycling. The cleaner worked fine on another machine so it is not plugged up.
As a side thougth how much does a 12v hot box run? I don't want to run a generator or large invertor for the 110v ones. How much amperage does a 110v draw? From what I have read from you the 12v burners are not as reliable.
Thanks again,
Larry

The kit for that unloader (#22688) is $43.00, a new unloader is $87.69.

A Hydro Tek Heat Link, 12 volt, 15 amp is $1,946.75, 115 volt, 5.4 amp is $1,621.75. Keep in mind, however, that ac and dc motors work differently. A dc motor draws full load amps at full speed. An ac motor will draw about 5 times the rated amperage until it reaches full speed, then drop back to rated amps. To supply the 12 volt burner, you must maintain 20 amps or so to the battery while it's running.

Tip size matters on those type of unloaders. Try a larger tip size. Also in the bypass they install an orifice on those older ones it is like a washer and it wears out. . Sometimes you can replace the orifice and make it work again.

Larry the exact same thing happens to me with my K-7's. The kits never last so when it starts acting up I just put a new one on. Mine dont last 6 years though. I talked with my local service and it boggles him we cant find out why they do this. O-well.

I have found that if the K7 has a #2 stamped on the Brass of the output, then you need to have a #1 stamped on the brass of the Bypass.
It needs a restriction to function right. They come stock with the same number on both. I found this to be too sensitive. Try it.