Cleaning Downstreamers after jobs.

oxfordlawn

New member
After going thru another downstreamer in a short amount of time, I have decided its time to take an extra step and at the end of a job, and suck some sort of cleaning solution thru the d/s to kill the corrosive effect of chlorine. It would be simple enough to leave the house supply water on with the pump off and my ball valve open on the end of my pressure hose...this would keep the d/ser sucking while im wrapping up the hoses. So my question....what would be good to suck thru to offset the bleach???? put the soap hoses into a a bucket of soapy water? plain water?? some other solution?? any thoughts people??
 
Thanks for the reply---I have the ceramic ball and still something seems to get eaten up in there after a while and the suction mix gets drastically reduced. Now Im running dual nozzle downstreamers as I now mix soap and bleach in seperate tanks and mix accordingly with how much I open my little ball valves in each soap line. Since these are a bit more pricey I was thinking of "rinsing them out" after each job....and then I was wondering about dropping the chemical pickups into a bucket of water and heavy dose of dish type soap to act as a coating of sorts on the innards of the d/s'er...again just night time thoughts so I thought I'd get some other opinions out here.
 
I like to rinse with the same downstreaming nozzles I use so I keep a 5 gallon bucket of water close to the injector.

Each time I finish with the soap, I just put the hose into the bucket of water then soap when soaping, etc..... so at the end of the job, the injector is rinsed out with at least 5 gallons of water.

My injectors now last about a year or longer now that I switched to this method of rinsing. It is more work but less aggravation when the injectors go out after about a year or longer of service.
 
Chris I do the same thing I've got a 5 gal bucket of clean water next to my house wash bucket and I have a piece of pvc on my injector hose above the plastic filter, and when I get done soaping I just switch buckets and while I'm rinsing the house it's pulling clean water through the injector.
 
I just pull my filter out of the chemical bucket when finished soaping and place it into my buffer tank when rinsing. They always last 6 to 9 months for me.
 
Chris I do the same thing I've got a 5 gal bucket of clean water next to my house wash bucket and I have a piece of pvc on my injector hose above the plastic filter, and when I get done soaping I just switch buckets and while I'm rinsing the house it's pulling clean water through the injector.

I did not mention that but I also use some pvc pipe over the chemical hose to make sure the plastic strainer is always at the bottom of the bucket when I am House Washing here in Corpus Christi Texas.

There are many ways to rinse out your injector but I find the 5 gallon bucket convenient.

Years ago I tried having a dedicated hose from the tank going to where I use the injector but it would leak a lot and I got tired of messing with it. I might try that again someday.
 
I did not mention that but I also use some pvc pipe over the chemical hose to make sure the plastic strainer is always at the bottom of the bucket when I am House Washing here in Corpus Christi Texas.

There are many ways to rinse out your injector but I find the 5 gallon bucket convenient.

Years ago I tried having a dedicated hose from the tank going to where I use the injector but it would leak a lot and I got tired of messing with it. I might try that again someday.
Same here. Bucket of water and I've got PVC on my lines too.
 
Yep, to rinse out, just pull the injector line out of the soap/sh, and drop it into a bucket of water and allow,the injector to draw water for a minute or so.

As for what eventually kills the injectors, after going through a couple of dozen, trying to figure out what causes them to slowly die, I have filed away the following in my mental database to look for once I detect that it seems not enough soap is being drawn:

1) pitted steel ball. Always replace it with a ceramic one. Once I did this, I've never had to replace the ceramic one.

2) the small oring that the ceramic ball seats against will get gummy....I have a small spray bottle of "goo gone" that I will remove the barb and spray a bit of the goo gone onto the oring and ball periodically.

3) the small orifice insert inside of the injector body.... I've had them simple come loose, by screwing out... It's a threaded cone with Hex wrench head... Make sure it's tight.... I've had them completely come out as well.

4) the orifice insert gets corroded by the SH.... just this week I had an injector that started to lose draw.... I checked the orifice was tite, but then I backed it all the way out and saw the small tail side of the cone was eaten away, and effectively changed the size of the orifice opening..... I had a spare cone with the same size and replaced it, which immediately solved the problem.

5) also check the trash filter at the end of the line in the Sh bucket, metal ones will corrode and break down, causing metal chunks to clog the injector..... Same with the plastic body ones.... The metal screen material breaks down, and corrodes away creating a hole in the mesh screen allowing junk to be sucked up and clog the injector... Always keep spare plastic filters on hand, and inspect daily for damage and replace if necessary.
 
Its sold by powerwash.com and others.

A similar product is sold by Paul called Bleach Wash.

http://shop.powerwashstore.com/Bleach-Wash-5-Gallon-Bleach-Wash-5-Gallon.htm

Bleach Buffering Soap & Equipment Rinse. Non-Hazardous
1. Use as final rinse on windows and siding.
2. Use to halt the bleaching reaction on treated raw wood.
3. Great final rinse on metal roofs and trim.
4. Buffers equipment from the damaging effects of bleach solutions.
5. Great system rinse for pumps and reels.
 
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