Pump problems

Roy Sanders

Roy Sanders

New member
I was on a job this evening and pressure started dropping at the gun. I looked at the water tank and the water level was at the top of the ball valve at the bottom of the tank. I assume it was sucking a little air so I stopped and started filling the tank. I added another 100 gallon or so and tried to finish up since I was just about done. Now I have hardly any pressure what so ever. Air in the pump? I did notice it cavitating a little bit when I had the gun open. This was after I added the 100 gallon. Water was still running through my bypass hose back to the tank. If I let off the gun for a couple of seconds then pull the handle again there is a burst of pressure but then it goes back to very little pressure. This pump only has about 30 hours on it. First time this has happened.
 
I would check your filter and then run your gun with the engine idling so that it will pull water, you could have air in the line and running it full throttle will not let water get in as good as it could, once you idle it and see a good flow then you should be good to go.
 
Christopher said:
I would check your filter and then run your gun with the engine idling so that it will pull water, you could have air in the line and running it full throttle will not let water get in as good as it could, once you idle it and see a good flow then you should be good to go.
Click to expand...

Right on. I had a similar problem. I solved mine by never letting the tank go below the the intake. Thats after I got the pump to prime. My problem also started when I let the water get to the top of the drain. I also throttle down when starting to get some good pull and flow.
 
The more you cavitate the pump, the faster you are cooking those packings and causing damage to the pump.

I would install a Hudson valve so you have water flowing into the tank as you are working so you don't run out of water, packings are not too expensive but the cavitation is wearing on the pump also.
 
Christopher said:
The more you cavitate the pump, the faster you are cooking those packings and causing damage to the pump.

I would install a Hudson valve so you have water flowing into the tank as you are working so you don't run out of water, packings are not too expensive but the cavitation is wearing on the pump also.
Click to expand...
Yeah I got a hudson valve. The reason I ran out is because I turned the water off thinking I was almost done. Then I got distracted and let it go down. Now I leave the water running until I am packing up, and open the dump valve until the tank has 15 inches of water in it. . Haven't had any vibration or loss of pressure since. For a while I had some sort of airlock in the pump causing a vibration, that felt like cavitation. Finally got that under control and it has been great ever since. I also took a lot of the fittings I had, off of my tank, and put the non collapsible hose on. Hopefully I didn't do too much damage from cavitation.
 
I have done the same thing in the past, now I have a couple of Hudson valves in the tank, one up near the top to keep the tank full then another about 1/2 way up that I switch to when nearing the end of the job so that even if I don't turn the water off before finishing, I only have about 1/2 a tank full of water to haul around to the next job. Cost a little bit more money between fittings and the valve but in the long run cheaper than more spent fuel by hauling a full tank or the possibility of bending another axle and replacing it with tires and brakes again.
 
I will pull the filter and see. I had idled the engine down twice and it didnt help. I could see water flowing into the pump through the feed line. I will check filter and go from there. Not sure it makes any difference but the pump is fed on both sides. Thanks guys.
 
Roy Sanders said:
I will pull the filter and see. I had idled the engine down twice and it didnt help. I could see water flowing into the pump through the feed line. I will check filter and go from there. Not sure it makes any difference but the pump is fed on both sides. Thanks guys.
Click to expand...
Tighten and re-tighten and check for cracks, You will see water going in, but you still could have an air leak.
 
Not to high jack your thread Roy, just have a question. I have two tanks on the trailer, I could not pass up a 125 gallon tank and straps for 75.00 $. With the two pumps together and a huge rinse tip I am wanting to install a hudson valve on the second tank and t into my supply lines with a one way check valve so that the smaller tank will not over fill. This will in therory help from running out of water, and also allow me carry more water to those jobs where their is no water. Has any one tried this, and did it work? I have already checked into larger trailer brakes and will be doing them regardless. Thanks in advance.
 
From your original pot it sounds like air,...but,..it shouldn't be this much of an issue getting it out. Idling down usually works ,..but you say it didn't help.

First I'd remove the trigger and run the hose into the tank for a few minutes.

If that doesn't work, I think there is another issue other than air.

Then I'd try to force feed the pump by garden hose.

Then I'd remove the unloader and plumb the hose directly to the pump,.TAPE or ZIP TIE the trigger open,...and start the machine and see what you got.

* Without the unloader you CANNOT run the pump and shut the trigger,..hence the need for tape or zip tie.

Jeff
 
Solopressure washer said:
Not to high jack your thread Roy, just have a question. I have two tanks on the trailer, I could not pass up a 125 gallon tank and straps for 75.00 $. With the two pumps together and a huge rinse tip I am wanting to install a hudson valve on the second tank and t into my supply lines with a one way check valve so that the smaller tank will not over fill. This will in therory help from running out of water, and also allow me carry more water to those jobs where their is no water. Has any one tried this, and did it work? I have already checked into larger trailer brakes and will be doing them regardless. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

I wish I could get larger or better trailer brakes, have new brakes on both axles and they do ok but would like better brakes, something that lasts longer than 1 or 1.5 years.

They do have disk brakes but that involves running hydraulic lines to all the wheels you want brakes on, a special controller, electric to hydraulic adapter, etc...... I got quoted about $1100 to have them installed on all 4 wheels. Maybe a year or more later on I might think about it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top