I have a soft wash business and recently burned out my booster pump - possibly due to the way I plumbed the inlet piping from the water & Chlorine tanks. I trying to determine the best option to replace the pump with for my operation.
My equipment:
6x12 single axle trailer
60 gallon water tank
120 gallon Chlorine tank,
1hp Flint & walling single phase booster pump (broken)
300' hose
7000w generator 10500w starting/peak
3500 psi, 4gpm pressure washer w/honda gx390 engine
200' 5000psi hose
I hook up with water supply on site, fill the 60 gallon tank, and keep it full while working. Water comes out the 60gallon thank into the booster pump. Chlorine & detergent are also feed into the booster pump. The Chlorine-water ratio is controlled by ball valves at the inlet of the booset pump. When it works, I get about 170psi out the nozzle and can hit the peak of a 2 story house from standing on the driveway. The nozzle allows me to spray or mist depending on how far I move the trigger.
It has worked great. Downside is a lot of running to switch from Chlorine to fresh water and the possibility of damaging the pump due to low water flow into the pump or by a build up of pressure if the trigger on the house is not pulled.
The booster pump is tost, really just the motor. Should I replace with the same or is there another option? If I go this route again I'm going to install a flow protector and a 260psi pressure relief valve.
This pump is about $500 and looking at $800 with the additions.
I need the psi for houses since I don't just stick to roofs.
I would appreciate any info and help you could provide. thanks.
My equipment:
6x12 single axle trailer
60 gallon water tank
120 gallon Chlorine tank,
1hp Flint & walling single phase booster pump (broken)
300' hose
7000w generator 10500w starting/peak
3500 psi, 4gpm pressure washer w/honda gx390 engine
200' 5000psi hose
I hook up with water supply on site, fill the 60 gallon tank, and keep it full while working. Water comes out the 60gallon thank into the booster pump. Chlorine & detergent are also feed into the booster pump. The Chlorine-water ratio is controlled by ball valves at the inlet of the booset pump. When it works, I get about 170psi out the nozzle and can hit the peak of a 2 story house from standing on the driveway. The nozzle allows me to spray or mist depending on how far I move the trigger.
It has worked great. Downside is a lot of running to switch from Chlorine to fresh water and the possibility of damaging the pump due to low water flow into the pump or by a build up of pressure if the trigger on the house is not pulled.
The booster pump is tost, really just the motor. Should I replace with the same or is there another option? If I go this route again I'm going to install a flow protector and a 260psi pressure relief valve.
This pump is about $500 and looking at $800 with the additions.
I need the psi for houses since I don't just stick to roofs.
I would appreciate any info and help you could provide. thanks.