Advice Needed -- Engine Replacement

HighTide

HighTide

New member
Hey guys. Both my 18-hp Vanguards are seriously leaking oil. One is a 6 year old belt-drive hot water skid with who knows how many hours (the burner only has 320 hrs on it) and the other is a 2 year old cold water gear-drive with 920 hours. My mechanic is suggesting an engine replacement on the old engine with a toss up on replacing vs. repairing on the newer one.

I am looking at the Kohler 19 hp Command Pro (NOT the EFI version) with 20-amp recharging and side muffler as replacements (with 1" shaft??—not sure). I may or can purchase a new gear reducer to go with one of the new engines. Questions on this include:

(1) is mounting bolt pattern the same?
(2) is shaft size the same?
(3) does it use the same pulley and belt setup?
(4) will the current PA gear reducer bolt on the same?
(5) what other issues do I need to consider?

My mechanic says that he can replace both engines that I ship to him AND if everything lines up for $320 including new oil. Thanks guys for any advice as I have only used Vanguards.
 
HighTide said:
Hey guys. Both my 18-hp Vanguards are seriously leaking oil. One is a 6 year old belt-drive hot water skid with who knows how many hours (the burner only has 320 hrs on it) and the other is a 2 year old cold water gear-drive with 920 hours. My mechanic is suggesting an engine replacement on the old engine with a toss up on replacing vs. repairing on the newer one.

I am looking at the Kohler 19 hp Command Pro (NOT the EFI version) with 20-amp recharging and side muffler as replacements (with 1" shaft??—not sure). I may or can purchase a new gear reducer to go with one of the new engines. Questions on this include:

(1) is mounting bolt pattern the same?
(2) is shaft size the same?
(3) does it use the same pulley and belt setup?
(4) will the current PA gear reducer bolt on the same?
(5) what other issues do I need to consider?

My mechanic says that he can replace both engines that I ship to him AND if everything lines up for $320 including new oil. Thanks guys for any advice as I have only used Vanguards.
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David, why not EFI? Not cost effective?
 
My mechanic doesn't yet recommend the EFI on the smaller engines as there isn't a long enough track record. Says you have monitor all the additional systems much closer with maintenance costs being higher with few certified Kohler EFI mechanics out there. One would get a nice break on fuel savings but not as much savings as the bigger engines. I am still considering a pair of EFI engines but unless someone reputable tells me to get them I probably won't. I definitely want "long range low cost" but I don't like uncertainty.
 
David you can get 18 hp vanguards from espec for a very good price that should be a direct replacement for the hot water machine. Im not one to recommend espec but they do have pretty good deals on the 18 briggs. the kohler bolt pattern is going to be different but the gear drive will bolt right up as long as the shaft is the same length and diameter. I would recommend getting a new gear drive when you purchase a new motor it makes it a lot easier that way. If you have any questions give me a call.
 
More problems: these two pictures are on the 2 year old gear drive unit. Notice the shaft has a gash on the lower part starting at the keyway. The other pic shows inside the gear. Is the shaft safe to use with a new gear reducer? This is the first time the gear has been removed from shaft since initial build 2 years ago.
 

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HighTide said:
More problems: these two pictures are on the 2 year old gear drive unit. Notice the shaft has a gash on the lower part starting at the keyway. The other pic shows inside the gear. Is the shaft safe to use with a new gear reducer? This is the first time the gear has been removed from shaft since initial build 2 years ago.
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That shaft is wrecked as far as I can see - standard outcome with the gear box.
 
greg/sd said:
shaft should be ok make sure you use a hardend steel keyway when you put back togetherr
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I can't decide if its better to use a regular or even soft key so that gets sacrificed to save the engine shaft?
 
I like my space saver gear box etc but I don't think I would ever buy again.No matter what you do the darn gear box weaps fluid out and it looks like a junk pile after a bit.
 
Russ Johnson said:
David, did you consider putting short blocks on your existing engines?
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I didn't since I don't know what that is. I clean things really well with great customer service and have good business sense, but I may be the least mechanically minded person ever. Is that like replacing the guts of the engine for around 60% of new engine cost?
 
Russ Johnson said:
It is replaceable, although not really easy.



Nope, don't give 2 figs for any ball sports. I like tires on mine.
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Wheeled racing requires two balls, whereas baseball, basketball, and football each only require one. Also, various types of racing require various ball sizes.
 
Mike V said:
Take Especs prices to a local guy, I am sure they will match them.

Also, Keep the old motors, I'll give you a couple hundred for them and pic them up next time we are down there.
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Espec has these listed:

Kohler -- 19 HP, 20 amp, 1" shaft with oil filter side muffler listed for $895
Vanguard -- 18 HP, 20 amp, 1" shaft with oil filter side muffler listed for $1,195

If the mounting bolt pattern and shaft length are the same this is an easy choice.
 
HighTide said:
I didn't since I don't know what that is. I clean things really well with great customer service and have good business sense, but I may be the least mechanically minded person ever. Is that like replacing the guts of the engine for around 60% of new engine cost?
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It's the block with the crank and pistons, no heads, carb, muffler, sheet metal, etc, etc. If you get me the model and typr numbers off the engine, I can price you one.
 
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