Pump Gear Box removal Honda 18 H.P.

G

GrimeDOg

Member
Machine --- 18 H.P. Honda GX610 .

Pump: GP T series 47 --TS2021 B

Never have taken this gear box off before.

I've read that you just find a way to pry this gear box off if it's somewhat seized ?

I'm in no hurry.Have a back up machine. I've been spraying it with wd-40 for a few days.

Trying to replace oil seal on the motor.

It seems to be on there pretty good. Am I doing this right ? Thx.

GEAR-BOX-REMOVAL-1.jpgGENERAL-PUMP-001.jpg
 
Not sure about yours,..but my gearbox has two 5/16" holes on opposite sides of the box that you can use as a way to "drive" the box off by making incremental turns of 5/16" bolts. You need long bolts like 4" or more in my case.

Just did it about 3 days ago,..works great,..BUT,..take just 3-4 turns at a time per bolt,..not wanting to bind it up to much,....You'll be able to tell when it begins to get crooked on the shaft,..it will tighten up. Then go to the other bolt and repeat. Doesn't take much effort,..just alot of turns,..but it's a nice controlled method.

Also, don't drive the nose of the bolt right into the cast aluminum of the engine,..get a piece of flat steel 1/16"-1/8" thick to use as a "buffer" between the nose of the bolt and the aluminum engine block.

Way better than prying in my opinion and experience.


**After looking at the picture, it looks as though the holes are there,.at least the one I can see,.. Between the mounting holes .I'd say check them out.

Jeff
 
Have you tried turning it side to side? When I ran gear boxes I never had any problems getting them off. All of mine slid off without any problems.
 
Hey Vince, mine was stuck also,..as you can tell by my post,...I used anti-seize as well,..just decided to stick though. Wanted to check my shaft key,..and it was visibly perfect.

Wonder if they get stressed?,..Guess I will just change it now that it's off.

Jeff
 
814jeffw said:
Hey Vince, mine was stuck also,..as you can tell by my post,...I used anti-seize as well,..just decided to stick though. Wanted to check my shaft key,..and it was visibly perfect.

Wonder if they get stressed?,..Guess I will just change it now that it's off.

Jeff
Click to expand...

I was thinking that they do get stressed as well. Another thing though is since you're on the east coast just the elements right have a role in it. We don't get any snow or have things that rust around where I live very quickly either. When it gets 50 degrees here I'm dressed like it's getting ready to snow outside.
 
814jeffw said:
Not sure about yours,..but my gearbox has two 5/16" holes on opposite sides of the box that you can use as a way to "drive" the box off by making incremental turns of 5/16" bolts. You need long bolts like 4" or more in my case.

Just did it about 3 days ago,..works great,..BUT,..take just 3-4 turns at a time per bolt,..not wanting to bind it up to much,....You'll be able to tell when it begins to get crooked on the shaft,..it will tighten up. Then go to the other bolt and repeat. Doesn't take much effort,..just alot of turns,..but it's a nice controlled method.

Also, don't drive the nose of the bolt right into the cast aluminum of the engine,..get a piece of flat steel 1/16"-1/8" thick to use as a "buffer" between the nose of the bolt and the aluminum engine block.

Way better than prying in my opinion and experience.


**After looking at the picture, it looks as though the holes are there,.at least the one I can see,.. Between the mounting holes .I'd say check them out.

Jeff
Click to expand...

If it doesn't have the threaded holes I think there's room to put a nut behind one of the holes and do the same thing. I think that is what I did.
 
Hey Tom, yes,..that trick does work as well,..I did it a long time ago with a direct drive.

*You know, it would be almost worth using nuts as spacers between the gearbox and the crankcase mounting holes.And just run the bolts right through the nuts and into the engine. Then anytime you ran into "stuck",..you could just replace the short mounting bolts with long bolts and use the nuts to drive the gearbox or direct drive pump off the shaft.

Only trade off would be the loss of a little bit of contact between the sleeve of the gearbox and the engine shaft.

And on two of the nuts,(opposite corners),..you could hang ratcheting wrenches by the box end during installation,..then ,you'd have a speedier way to turn the nuts when the time came,Ha,Ha,..

That's when the pump would probably just slide off,Ha,Ha,Ha,...

Jeff
 
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When you do pry on it, pry at 2 points 180° from each other at the same time. That keeps the gearbox from cocking sideways and binding up.
 
Liquid wrench is a MUCH better penetrant than WD-40..
and be SUPER-careful of levering the pump & motor un-stuck..
Bending the motor shaft or Blasting thru the crankcase of the engine
..would make for a bad day.

Vince..
Yours probably never gave you trouble because you were careful to give them "the perfect water supply".
Cavitation causes the shafts to chatter, and that added heat grows corrosion.

Gear reduction pumps do better pressure-fed. As do all pumps direct-driven.
BeltDrive eliminates the shaft-drive issues, and allows tank-feed to be much more reliable .

Cheaper is never Long-Term-Low-Cost.
 
Got it.......

GrimeDOg said:
Machine --- 18 H.P. Honda GX610 .

Pump: GP T series 47 --TS2021 B

Never have taken this gear box off before.

I've read that you just find a way to pry this gear box off if it's somewhat seized ?

I'm in no hurry.Have a back up machine. I've been spraying it with wd-40 for a few days.

Trying to replace oil seal on the motor.

It seems to be on there pretty good. Am I doing this right ? Thx.

View attachment 29241View attachment 29242
Click to expand...


____________________________________________________________________________wedges.jpgOILSEALHOLE2.jpg


OP here. Finally got it. I went and bought these 2 steel wood splitters. $10 a piece.

The trick was.And maybe the pro's know this. I got the gear box about 1/2" off and sprayed wd-40

and then banged it back in with a piece of wood and a hammer. I just kept doing this over and over.and over

Then took these 2 wedges and put them on each side.. and it came off.. Didn't slide right off...It took

a some patience and tapping each wedge carefully. Quite euphoric when it came off.

_____________________________________________________________________________________

The project is changing the oil seal. I took a pic.I was wondering what this small hole is

behind the oil seal. Anyone know ?
 
oily vapor is preservative to the seal..
But, since I always try to improve before replacing anything..
I grease the seal before reinstalling.. as grease is a better Sealant than oil.
 
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