Soap Injectors

814jeffw

Active member
Wondering what actually goes bad in soap injectors? I know they sell the rebuild kits for the GP Hi-Draws,..and it looks like only the spring, ball and an O-ring in the kit? Is this all that can go bad or does the orifice change,.affecting the draw rate and/or performance? Do the acid kits with ceramic ball make any difference in the life of these things?

I am sick of these Hi-Draws and am looking at alternate choices and with some endorsements on longevity and performance. I will spend the money on something that has a good draw rate with 200' of hose, and will also last.
I plan on using the Super Suds Sucker next I guess,.. but have seen mixed reviews on it as well,..more positive than negative,...actually the reviews weren't really negative,...they seemed negative due to the $89.00 price tag.

I remember in another thread Russ mentioned a couple of brands, and I will check into them as well.

I'd appreciate anyone with with other brands care to chime in and give experiences on draw rate and longevity.

Thank You,
Jeff
 
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The SH actually eats the tip off the orifice inside, ruining the venturi. We have the new orifices in 2.1 and 2.3.They're about $15.00 for a bag of 5.
 
I tried a SSS a coupe years ago, was not impressed and didn't last any longer than the Generals. Just my 2 cents.
 
Great thread Jeff. The things that fail the most on the Generals are #1...Springs...#2...O-Ring....#3...Orifice.

Seems to me, in the last few years of using the Hi-Draws, they are failing faster than they ever have (or maybe we're just working them more). We even have a 3 way ball valve installed so that when we switch to rinse the injector is rinsed out completely after every use. Constant psi on the orifice could be the culprit. I see that many are switching to the "Injector Bypass" that Russ sells.....which might be the "Go To" option, I'll wait to see more feedback.

We're going through a couple every week or so.......but the amount of work we're doing more than makes up for the cost of replacements.

Just a few thoughts.
 
The SH actually eats the tip off the orifice inside, ruining the venturi. We have the new orifices in 2.1 and 2.3.They're about $15.00 for a bag of 5.

This is the way to go. I get mine from Russ. I have injectors that are 7 yrs old and working fine. When they go bad, rebuild and keep going. Rinse after every job. I add a cup of vinegar to my rinse water when I rinse injectors and electric pumps.
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Hey Doug,..Thanks for the feedback on the SSS. That's my problem with buying expensive pieces,..they may not be any or much better than the cheap ones.


Hey Guy,..yea I don't know,..but the quality in these sure seems to be less than years past. I've seen a few other guys mention it also. Appreciate the feedback on the susceptible parts as well,..that's good information.
Regarding the bypass thingy,..I made one last Summer,..we have been using it since l, and I really like it,..we bypass the injector alot,..especially when we're close to the trailer and it's not so far to walk back. But we always use it when we're rinsing close quarters like inside porch areas and such,.. full flow and nice gentle rinsing. And when it's time to run the surface cleaner we always have it off,...I had hopes of it making the injectors last longer, but didn't seem to help in my case. And I always rinse them out really good. I even thought maybe the suction hose was losing it's seal and effecting the draw rate,..but I clamped it and made no difference.

Al,..are those the orifices?..it looks like they just screw in/out? Simple fix then it looks like. I can see the vinegar trick helping by neutralizing the SH.

Jeff
 
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Jeff I got two of the SSS. They put out a lot of soap when they work. The first one blew up inside, mangling spring and stuff. Happened right after I changed out my unloader. So it might have been my fault. The second one just quit working. Changed the orifice and it still didn't work. Switched to 2.1 hi draw. No probs in about 3 months. Got a box full of them anyway. Now I am wondering if hi draw orifices are replaceable?
 
Hey Doug,..Thanks for the feedback on the SSS. That's my problem with buying expensive pieces,..they may not be any or much better than the cheap ones.


Hey Guy,..yea I don't know,..but the quality in these sure seems to be less than years past. I've seen a few other guys mention it also. Appreciate the feedback on the susceptible parts as well,..that's good information.
Regarding the bypass thingy,..I made one last Summer,..we have been using it since l, and I really like it,..we bypass the injector alot,..especially when we're close to the trailer and it's not so fat to walk back. But we always use it when we're rinsing close quarters like inside porch areas and such,.. full flow and nice gentle rinsing. And when it's time to run the surface cleaner we always have it off,...I had hopes of it making the injectors last longer, but didn't seem to help in my case. And I always rinse them out really good. I even thought maybe the suction hose was losing it's seal and effecting the draw rate,..but I clamped it and made no difference.

Al,..are those the orifices?..it looks like they just screw in/out? Simple fix then it looks like. I can see the vinegar trick helping by neutralizing the SH.

Jeff

Jeff. Yes those are the orifices. I get them from Russ. They un screw with an allen wrench. They work in GP AND suds Suckers. I buy the GP Rebuild kits and when they quit pulling chems, I gut them and replace everything. Can be done in the field in about 10 minutes, but I prefer to do them at home. Try it. Easy to do and saves time and money in the long run.


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By the way. I have one injector that has no ball or spring in it that i am experimenting with. I have a small plastic ball valve on the pick up line. When I want soap I open the valve. I haven't run a bucket test on it yet, but it seems to pull more soap than one with the ball and spring in it. Probably less restriction in the line. When you do this you have to keep going back to the trailer to turn it off and on, or have one guy soaping and one rinsing.


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Thanks for the info Benjamin,..where are you buying the Amerimax injectors? I'm sure the SH is eating them up,.but the point is,..they didn't fail so often and so radically just a few year ago,..and I was using SH then as well. I'm gonna call Russ and get a handful of the orifices and springs and try to keep the ones i have going,..and maybe try other brands.

Jeff
 
Another question,,..when running max RPM's I am getting max flow,..and get a draw rate of 17:1 with 40's. If I use bigger nozzles will the draw rate change to a stronger mix,..and also will running a lower RPM make a stronger ratio? Seems to me it would make sense that it would change,..but I am not sure without testing what the difference actually is.

*17:1 is strong enough for house washing and am not trying to make a stronger mix in general,..just thinking out loud this morning.

Jeff
 
Another question,,..when running max RPM's I am getting max flow,..and get a draw rate of 17:1 with 40's. If I use bigger nozzles will the draw rate change to a stronger mix,..and also will running a lower RPM make a stronger ratio? Seems to me it would make sense that it would change,..but I am not sure without testing what the difference actually is.

*17:1 is strong enough for house washing and am not trying to make a stronger mix in general,..just thinking out loud this morning.

Jeff

If you go to like a #50 nozzle it will increase your chem draw. As far as lower RPM's I would say... No, DS injectors are based on GPM or flow....lowering RPM is lowering GPM......but I could be wrong......I don't like messing with RPM's.
 
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