Sooted Heater should NOT require "Coil Washing"

[Sirocco Jerry]

So.. your heater went out of adjustment, you went too long without adjusting your electrode assembly, you ran it too long with a partially plugged fuel filter, or whatever.. now that coil is "choked" with soot, and you want to get it back into service ASAP.. WE haven't cleaned a coil for a customer in our service department for probably 15 years.. And that ONLY happened because I was out of town at the time. This "Coil Washing" can be avoided by installing a 30 to 50% smaller burner nozzle, cleaning and adjusting the electrode assembly, giving the fuel a double-dose of SootRemover, carefully burning away any unburned fuel in the burner chamber, adjusting air to burn clean, ..or going down another nozzle size to get it to burn clean. Burning the soot away eliminates the need to make that big, nasty mess that is always the result of trying to "clean" a coil.. and I don't believe ANY owner of a wash bay would authorize such a mess either. This is absolutely a great example of what we NEVER want ANYbody in this industry to do, as it could appear quite easily.. the mess is an "avoidable pollution". Everyone in the "Cleaning business" should act and work, by process-procedure to EVERYtime manage pollution.. NOT "cause it" .. .. This will certainly end up a page in my "Pressure Washer Service School".. I know you guys with "lots of land" take pollution a little lighter than us city-dwellers, but I see the "power of suggestion" in these forums giving people the wrong ideas. ..especially newbies. Sorry to squelch anyone's mood on this one, I just have strong feelings toward how to "eliminate downtime", protect the environment, minimize liability exposures, and save you money in time.

 

[Ron Musgraves]

So.. your heater went out of adjustment, you went too long without adjusting your electrode assembly, you ran it too long with a partially plugged fuel filter, or whatever.. now that coil is "choked" with soot, and you want to get it back into service ASAP.. WE haven't cleaned a coil for a customer in our service department for probably 15 years.. And that ONLY happened because I was out of town at the time. This "Coil Washing" can be avoided by installing a 30 to 50% smaller burner nozzle, cleaning and adjusting the electrode assembly, giving the fuel a double-dose of SootRemover, carefully burning away any unburned fuel in the burner chamber, adjusting air to burn clean, ..or going down another nozzle size to get it to burn clean. Burning the soot away eliminates the need to make that big, nasty mess that is always the result of trying to "clean" a coil.. and I don't believe ANY owner of a wash bay would authorize such a mess either. This is absolutely a great example of what we NEVER want ANYbody in this industry to do, as it could appear quite easily.. the mess is an "avoidable pollution". Everyone in the "Cleaning business" should act and work, by process-procedure to EVERYtime manage pollution.. NOT "cause it" .. .. This will certainly end up a page in my "Pressure Washer Service School".. I know you guys with "lots of land" take pollution a little lighter than us city-dwellers, but I see the "power of suggestion" in these forums giving people the wrong ideas. ..especially newbies. Sorry to squelch anyone's mood on this one, I just have strong feelings toward how to "eliminate downtime", protect the environment, minimize liability exposures, and save you money in time.

Passion Jerry , nothing wrong with it


Iowa July 19 & 20 free free text me for more details !!

 

[nibbsy]

Something that I found on the Net in relation to soot build up on heater coils.
Sounds plausible to me

If firescale is allowed to form on heat exchangers, the loss of efficiency can be directly related to extra fuel consumption. A 1 mm deposit is approximately equivalent to a 10% efficiency loss, a 3 mm deposit can reduce efficiency by up to 50%.
The normal ignition temperature of soot is around 600°C. This means that it is burned only in the hottest parts of the boiler or diesel exhaust systems. Due to the catalytic action of Soot Remover Liquid, the ignition temperature of the soot/firescale is reduced to less than 250°C. The carbon deposits are thus ignited, leaving an easily removable ash.

 

[purepowerwash]

Funny you bring all of this up because I just paid $600 to have my coils cleaned and new baffle plates welded in. The dealer said the air flow and fuel flow was way off balance, so they adjusted it all and told me to start using the soot remover every time I fuel up...which I have been doing, and it seems to work a little bit.
I think any ideas you have to offer, are well accepted.

Thanks!!