Tension On Belts / Pressure Washer

WFSTOTT

New member
I have a 3500 PSI Landa pressure washer. Can someone tell me how to tell if the belts are tight enough? If you push down on the middle of the top of the belt, how far down should it go?
 
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Check out Dayco's site.

http://www.cptbelts.com/pdf/flyers/vbelttensioning.pdf


Tensioning process described sounds a bit complicated, but over-tensioning can cause major problems (wear out pump and motor bearings/seals along with premature belt wear). Invest a few bucks in a scale (fishing scale may do the job if the space allows).

If the calcs are too much, go back to the manufacturer to get the deflection (it's based on belt cross section, distance between pulleys and pressure applied).

Good luck!


Regards,
 
Designed and trouble shot more drives than I care to remember.

We used an electronic device that measures the frequency - just twang the belt and it gave you the tension read-out. (Pricey piece.)

We also used adjustable, lock-down type belt tensioners rather than moving the driver or the driven device.

On timing belts (since the stretch is very minute) you could set the center distances and not even have to use a tensioner (only on simple and short center distance drives).

We designed high production equipment where down-time was critical - $1000 per minute plus - getting parts to last had high $
value.


Regards,
 
paul

i had a conversation on the bbs about this once and my idea was barrowed from another person.
It was simple to mount a adj arm to hold a skateboard wheel that could ride on the flat of the belts.
Everyone said it was not worth it because you only adj them once and then replace.
The guy i got this idea from uses them on drive units inside the primary on harleys.
 
Ron,

They do make flat faced idler pulleys that are made specifically for tensioning or minor back-bending of the belt to achive minimum wrap around the pulleys (similar to the idler found on the serpentine drives of your trucks - the truck idler is spring loaded so it automatically adjusts for belt stretch and wear, increasing belt life). Your (or borrowed) idea would also work well. A take-up mechanism makes the initial tensioning go very easy and potentially more accurate and makes any subsequent checks and adjustments also easy. When there is not an easy way to tension v-belts, most will not take the trouble to check and possibly re-tighten when needed.

I suppose most don't see the value but then who knows how much different the results would be. Would your belts last longer, would your pump last longer, would your motor bearings and seals last longer? I definitely know that on production equipment where all maintenance was tracked on computer and when belts were tensioned properly, and rechecked and adjusted as required, everything in connection with the drives lasted longer.
Believe me I went around and around with several plant folks before they finally realized the benefits. Like I said, they now use very sophisticated set-ups and electronic measuring devices to lengthen part and equipment life. Obviously it would be an overkill for a P/W but the basic principle remains the same - tension the belt(s) properly.


Regards,
 
You must also make sure they are aligned as well as tight.

The simple answer is to watch the belts as they turn with a full load.
Pulling the trigger.
If they bounce around alot they are two loose.
If they are too tight they won't bounce at all.
Another method is to squeeze them together with your hand they should move only about 1/2 inch.
 
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A moment of silence please...for all the designers, engineers and technicians that are having heart failures and are pondering their life's worth. We've just put thousands into mid-life crisis (over the 1/2" statement) wondering why they waisted all those years and why they spent their money and time on education instead of blowing it all on booze and cigarettes.

Good Folkd: The information is out there (..oh, the chest pain is easing) so now it's up to you to pick your poison.


Regards,
 
Wow was that comment sarcasim. I try to tell it with the KISS method.

K=Keep
I=It
S=Simple
S=Stupid
 
I won't argue about what's in the book because it's ludicrous. Imagine publishing a book full of information (300+ pages) about how to do things properly and then wipe out half of that with one sentence. There are situations where the drive area is so congested that it may not be possible to get to the belt to check tensioning properly with a mechanical device - the KISS method would apply there.

The point in contention is that not everyone has the same feel and same idea of what is tight and what is loose and how tight to squeeze or what a half inch is and is 1/2" too loose if the pulleys are only 16" apart. "Strike the belt and if you hear a nice twang it's tight enough" - is that a high "E" or a low "E"...?

I've seen literally 100's of drives that were incorrectly tensioned because they were done by feel. My recommendation is to do it properly and you'll get the best performance. Anything else, and your just guessing. No more, no less.

If it's not important to you, then ignore the info (it was free).
I can lead you to water, but I can't make you drink it...and don't plan to.

YOU are the only one that can elevate the bar !


Cheers to the ones that can understand that!


Regards,
 
Paul,
I appreciate your input on any of the subjects in this forum. I do not know everything. Different views are important and productive. Thanks for the interesting and knowledgable contrast you bring to this place called the Pressure Washing Institute.
 
Ron P.

We were talking belt tensioners earlier - Glenn's photo (below) shows a pump mounted on top of a slide take-up for adjusting belt tension. Having a jacking screw such as this would negate the need for a skateboard wheel type take-up pulley. The watchout here is the same as John pointed out earlier - the pulley face to pulley face alignment.


Regards,
 

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