True Bypass valve?

Tony Shelton

Tony Shelton

BS Detector, Esquire
Russ, I'm still working on measuring my pulley. I'll get to that soon I hope:

Question for everyone----

Is there any such thing as an electrically actuated three way valve?

For example: Say I hook a "Y" up right before my high pressure hose. One side goes to the hose and the other side goes straight back into my water tank.

I'd like to switch between those two electrically. That way I can bypass directly to the tank with the push of a remote button if I don't want to turn off the unit, but I want to leave the gun off for 5-10 minutes.

Comprende?
 
Hello Tony,

Here is a picture of the Baird By-Pass Relief valve that we have used for many years. Not electrical.

The pump is pumping 100% of its capacity all of the time. If the water is not going out the hose to a wand it goes back into a surge tank in the back of this picture.

Dave Olson
 

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Dave Olson said:
Hello Tony,

Here is a picture of the Baird By-Pass Relief valve that we have used for many years. Not electrical.

The pump is pumping 100% of its capacity all of the time. If the water is not going out the hose to a wand it goes back into a surge tank in the back of this picture.

Dave Olson
Click to expand...

That's almost what I'm talking about. I just keep hearing how bad it is on the pump to run just relying on unloader bypass.

I'm buying a remote start with two aux buttons. It's supposed to work from 700 ft.

Here's the scenario I'm trying to get to:

I go up on the roof,

1) Once I open the first unit I hit the remote and turn on the PW

2) When done with that one, Hit the bypass button and move on to the next and bypass back to the tank till I get the filter out of the unit.

3) Once the filter is out, hit the bypass button again and clean the next one-

4) If I come across one with tobacco smoke I hit the other aux button and turn on the heat ( I could also bypass hot water back into the tank when I'm done with the hot water till it cools instead of wasting it on the ground)

5) When I get to the last unit I hit the remote and shut the unit off and take my time putting the filters back in.

Make sense?
 
Use the remote control to activate a clutch on the pump.
 
I think I'm missing something. It sounds like you want to do by remote what the unloader does automatically. Its not the water going through the unloader continuously that is bad but the same water going through the pump over and over, thereby heating up - the water can go through your unllloader back to a large tank forever. The remotes sound very cool,where did you get them?

12 or 24 volt clutches are pretty common, you could wire your remote to operate a clutch but you have to fit it in to the pump engine configuration.

There is a whole system I saw on this board that uses a clutch instead of an unloader and comes with a remote that also controlls chemical injection.
 
tomtucson said:
I think I'm missing something. It sounds like you want to do by remote what the unloader does automatically. Its not the water going through the unloader continuously that is bad but the same water going through the pump over and over, thereby heating up - the water can go through your unllloader back to a large tank forever. The remotes sound very cool,where did you get them?

12 or 24 volt clutches are pretty common, you could wire your remote to operate a clutch but you have to fit it in to the pump engine configuration.

There is a whole system I saw on this board that uses a clutch instead of an unloader and comes with a remote that also controlls chemical injection.
Click to expand...

I didn't realize that the water goes continuously through the unloader. I thought it cycled on and off.

The remotes come from US Carburation at http://www.uscarb.com/

That's the only place I could find a remote made specifically for my 20hp honda motor. I haven't recieved it yet to try out.
 
Hello Tony,

We can leave our pump run an extended time because the water is returned to a surge tank (about 40 gallons).

The pressure always remains the same (whatever we set it for), usually 3000 psi. We use ball valves instead of trigger guns on our lines. We can change the volume at will by changing the tip size. We change the pressure by throttling back on the ball valve. We turn our boiler on and the flame turns off with no flow, and the temperature control (thermostat) and modulating fuel valve on the boiler keeps the temperature in range even at very low flow.

Call me sometime if you want more information on our system.

Dave Olson
 
tony , on my system we use a clutch ..my system is totally wireless.. we run 2 solenoids for chemical injection and one for my clutch ... in your case the clutch is the way 2 go ... when you want the water to come on you hit a button and the clutch will kick in and give you water when you are done you hit the button again and it will shut off.... the benefit to the clutch is that the pump is not spinning at all.. saving your pump life... our remote system breaks the contact on the negative to turn the clutch on and off .. make sure you use a good relay in between .... pm me if you need more assistance
 
ps anyone whos looking for a wireless system .. here is your saviour .. its on ebay and the item number is 280291589102.. it has hundredes of uses ... its multifunctional .. there is a 12 , 6 4, 2 channel...you can be wireless in 10mins or a 2 hours for a complex system .. if anyone is uncertain about it pm me and i can walk you through your installation.. besides you got nothing 2 loose for 30 bucks...
 
Tony, I have had the bypass plumbed to the supply tank and have had it that way since I bought it back in Jan. 04'.

I can let it bypass for as long as I want as there is always a good supply of cool water to help keep the pump cool. Sometimes it bypasses for as long as 20 minutes or longer.

Right now I am cleaning 3 huge water storage tanks for the city that are 48' high and 165' in diameter.

I start up the machine, put the hose onto the bucket truck and climb up into the bucket truck and get the hose and get it into position and by the time I have moved the bucket into position, it is probably 3-6 minutes. In a way, kind of like what you are doing except I am not using hot water.

Sounds like you can do the same with just the unloader but rigging up a remote for the burner.

Since the bypass is before the burner, you will not be circulating hot water unless you put the unloader after the burner which might cause super-heating issues but I am not an expert, ask Russ about that one.

Let us know what you end up doing.
 
Chris, Thanks for the info on the Remote, I have been looking for one for a while now, maybe that one will work.

Where do you get the solenoids from?

Where do you get the clutches from?

How long do they last with the Acids/Caustics?

Please email me if you want: chris969@swbell.net

Thanks.
 
Maybe its just me but the more complex systems get the more frequently they seem to break or have weird issues. I just don't think a lot of those electronics travel well or like our detergents...
 
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