Yamada pump ?

Do you have a dryer on the air supply line? Might just be moisture in the air area.
 
Not sure how much you know about these pumps,.so don't be insulted by me asking you: When it stopped,..did it just stop,.and that was it? Or did you try to restart it by disconnecting and reconnecting the air supply?,..or with the Yamada,..it may have a reset button. If the pump isn't pumping and it sounds like it has air passing through,..there is likely an inside issue. Maybe a ruptured diaphragm?

*AODD pumps are great,..but also very sensitive to air quality. There is more to it than having a simple moisture trap,..although that may work for some,..it is still far from ideal. You have to understand how these traps work to utilize them. I wrote a simple write up about this about a year ago or so. I got tired of stalling air pumps,..and they all stall on our mobile setups,..albeit some more or less than others,..but there are things you can do to help minimize the stalling,...and in my case to almost no stalls to speak of since I learned a little about dry air.

Whether any of this helps your current issue,..my suggestion along with others' may help you and others in the future.

http://www.propowerwash.com/board/upload/showthread.php?31524-Stalling-Air-Pumps&highlight=

Jeff
 
I run 2 filter dryers on this with the secondary dryers drain valve opened just enough to create a spiter valve. I did remove all air from system like for a stall concern but no luck. Looking at it today I found air going back to the mix tank and also feeding to my hose. Found the valve only going 1 way and not returning. Ordered a rebuild kit from Russ today and will know more in a few days.
 
Air Drying is important...but to run an air diaphragm system properly you have two factors to consider when dealing with airline moisture:

The Moisture Content
and...

Temperature.

Basic gas physics...compress a gas and it gets hot. Hot gas holds on to more moisture and does not want to release it. You can run a whole series of drying units in line but if you are putting hot air through the water separators, they will be ineffective. Unless you get the air below or close to the dew point, the water separator will be ineffective and still pass a lot of moisture.

Following up on that train of thought...The REASON you stall your pump is again basic gas physics...decompress a gas (i.e. drop the pressure) and it gets very cold. If there is water entrained in the gas, the temperature drop is enough so the water will turn into ice. This can block the chamber passages in the pump and will put premature wear on the air end as the ice crystals can wear the seals.

Thus, compressed air systems require not only moisture management but also heat management. This can be as simple as running an extra long run of air hose...running the air hose through a buffer tank to act as a heat sink...or using an Aftercooler. The more CFM you run in your system, the more cooling you will require. Under 10 CFM and the first option can work pretty well. Under 25 and the second option works for most guys. Over 25 CFM and an Aftercooler is recommended. An Aftercooler is nothing but a compressed air cooling radiator.

In addition, not all water separators are created equal. Most work on a simple venturi principal and are moderately effective. I recommend the Tsunami water separators for all my clients. Guys who have chased after stalling issues are nearly always solved by putting the 1/2" Tsunami inline. They are extremely effective to say the least. I run 1" pumps as well as multiple 1/2" with a 60 CFM Air Screw Comp. I also test a lot of pumps on our trucks after rebuilds and the Tsunami has never stalled one pump...even in the rainy season in Western WA.

Last but not least, not all pumps are created equal either. An ARO PD series pump is far far less sensitive to airline moisture than a Yamada. Yamada being one of the more sensitive to air line moisture. Typically the more expensive the pump is, the more likely it is to have built in air line icing resistance.
 
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