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Wand/Surface Cleaner Connection?

MHasterok

MHasterok

New member
I have a Steel Eagle surface cleaner. If anyone has a surface cleaner that they rigged their wand to with a shut off valve, quick connect, etc., can you please post a pic? Thanks!

On the dirty initial cleanings, I'm getting too many lines that are visible once it dries from the path of my surface cleaner. I think if I can rinse sooner it will help. Right now I have to disconnect the cleaner, attach the wand, rinse, and go back and forth.:banghead:
 
chrishartje said:
You maybe moving a bit too fast!
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Not the swirling lines from going too fast. They are about 4-8" wide lines going the length of the path I run the cleaner.
 
MHasterok said:
Not the swirling lines from going too fast. They are about 4-8" wide lines going the length of the path I run the cleaner.
Click to expand...


Got pic's? Sounds like you might be overlaping....

I cant take credit for the ball valve.... I learned that at my online pressure washing school....... P.W.I.
 
chrishartje said:
Got pic's? Sounds like you might be overlaping....

I cant take credit for the ball valve.... I learned that at my online pressure washing school....... P.W.I.
Click to expand...
Now that I think about it, I do overlap some runs. Here's an example...

Kfc Ina During4.jpg
 
Post some pictures of what you are talking about.

What is the size of the surface cleaner?

What is the psi and gpm of your machine?

Hot water or cold?
 
Tony Shelton said:
Check to make sure both tips are parallel with the bar. In other words make sure the fan is inline with the bar and not tightened 1/8th or 1/4 turn in the wrong direction.
Click to expand...

Great check to make.

I have heard many say that on really dirty concrete with the overlaps the operator makes with the surface cleaner it would look cleaner there, some operators go much slower an others use some love straight or down streamed to even out the surface color.

What soap are you using? How do you apply it?
 
I have a 24" steel eagle. Make sure that the angle of your tips is set correctly. The wrong angle can make a big difference. A little chlorine after is a big help.
 
If nozzles are not positioned correctly, the surface cleaner will vibrate and disbalance, spray bar will not spin as fast as it supposed to, there will be circles left on the concrete. At least this is what happened to me :). Ball valve is ok to rinse, but 40 nozzle does a lot better job in my opinion. If you use the ball valve, non-fully open to run pressured flow through it, it will not last for too long. High pressure ball valves are not cheap ($30 and up). The one I see on the pic above looks like a regular ball valve.
IMG_2679.jpg
 
That is exactly the same way I have mine set-up except I also have a QC on my hose so that I can take off my ball valve whenever I need to. Also, I trim off the excess from the zip tie. Other than that it's exact. :idea2:
 
Christopher said:
Post some pictures of what you are talking about.

What is the size of the surface cleaner?

What is the psi and gpm of your machine?

Hot water or cold?
Click to expand...
Thanks Tony, i'll check it out.

Machine is 24", Hot water up to 248, 4.8gpm, 3000psi.
 
810f250 said:
Great check to make.

I have heard many say that on really dirty concrete with the overlaps the operator makes with the surface cleaner it would look cleaner there, some operators go much slower an others use some love straight or down streamed to even out the surface color.

What soap are you using? How do you apply it?
Click to expand...
I use Hotsy Ripper 1 degreaser. 5 gal is $50, usually mix about 4 to 1 in a pump sprayer. Looking for a cheaper degreaser that will do just as well.
 
MHasterok said:
I use Hotsy Ripper 1 degreaser. 5 gal is $50, usually mix about 4 to 1 in a pump sprayer. Looking for a cheaper degreaser that will do just as well.
Click to expand...
shhhhhhhhhhhhh ............. Caustic soda beads, 50 pounds = about 30 bucks, will makes 6 to 10 times that much (30 to 50 gallons) and you can downstream it, also its way way stronger (99% sodium hydroxide):idea:
 
Russ Spence said:
shhhhhhhhhhhhh ............. Caustic soda beads, 50 pounds = about 30 bucks, will makes 6 to 10 times that much (30 to 50 gallons) and you can downstream it, also its way way stronger (99% sodium hydroxide):idea:
Click to expand...
Russ, I've never used caustic. What types of safety precautions do you use? From what I've read on here, it seems like it's not the safest. I definately need something stronger for the restaurant grease trap/dumpster pads.

I'm not set up to downstream (may take care of it today). Do you downstream through your wand, then use surface cleaner, then rinse with wand?
 
Mike just be sure you get all the chems out of the line before you connect the SC or the chems will spray out of the swivel. caustics will eat it up quick. those lines are almost impossable to remove Ive done some places about 3-4 times just to remove thoses lines and you can still see them. havent tried the love after though. the big guy has that problem. my 20" never left those overlap lines. or my aqua pro but .....
 
MHasterok said:
Thanks Tony, i'll check it out.

Machine is 24", Hot water up to 248, 4.8gpm, 3000psi.
Click to expand...


That is a little on the low gpm side for a 24" surface cleaner, it will do the job but you will find that you will be overall faster with a 20" surface cleaner like the Classic by Whisper Wash.

I shaved 30 minutes off the time I do some tire places by switching from the 24" Steel Eagle to the Whisper Wash Classic, no other changes, still do them all the same way, it will get under more obstacles and faster to maneuver since it floats.

Post some pictures of what you are talking about so we can see exactly what it is doing.
 
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