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No more @#$% gear drive

tomtucson

tomtucson

New member
After another failure, replaced the gear drive with a triple belt. Thought about a polychain setup but seemed like the main advantage of belt drive is give which the poly doesn't have and I think the tension is higher so more side load. Last belt drive I had the belts would last for years, they're cheap and easy to get.

One side of the deck has no bracing and has gotten a dip where the tanks sit so I welded two bars on top to mount the pump, made a belt tensioning system - angle brace with a bolt and an angle 'puller', sized the pulleys 2 to 1 new inlet/outlet plumbing etc etc - Its all straight forward but the details will kill you softly! That triple pulley must weigh 30 lbs, its like a second flywheel, I think it does make it run smoother and takes up the shock load when the trigger is pulled.
 

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Good for you looks like you did the right thing.One thing in Pic 6 the base you might want to put washers under the bolts and loctite the nuts
 
Thanks Alexy, I really do like the profile of the gear drive but enough is enough. I think the gear drive needs a bushing that torques down on the shaft instead of the sleeve that is used. It seemed better without the washers and it felt like it locked up, but I didn't even think about locktite. Needs the triple belt because of the massive power, thats how I roll!
 
tomtucson said:
After another failure, replaced the gear drive with a triple belt. Thought about a polychain setup but seemed like the main advantage of belt drive is give which the poly doesn't have and I think the tension is higher so more side load. Last belt drive I had the belts would last for years, they're cheap and easy to get.

One side of the deck has no bracing and has gotten a dip where the tanks sit so I welded two bars on top to mount the pump, made a belt tensioning system - angle brace with a bolt and an angle 'puller', sized the pulleys 2 to 1 new inlet/outlet plumbing etc etc - Its all straight forward but the details will kill you softly! That triple pulley must weigh 30 lbs, its like a second flywheel, I think it does make it run smoother and takes up the shock load when the trigger is pulled.
Click to expand...

Tom, your better than that. Whats your address...I want to send you a surprise.

whats the ID on that clear crap hose you got on there? I dont care if its low pressure side of pump. Its not you!!!
 
Good call Ron,
we use doubles to 16Hp MAX !!
Figure 7hp max per B or 5L belt
8hp max if it's cogged.

And about that feed line..
should be 1" for 4 to 5 gpm,
or DUAL fdeed 3/4" lines to EACH side of the head for 6 or 7gpm
bigger is better, 'lest ye have a seal-changing fettish.

We stopped using Gear reduction 10 years ago. ..for up to 13hp..
we have NEVER recommended them for over 13hp.. any of 'em.

Tom,
I guess you'd agree the belt drive versions are "well worth"
the extra $500 they cost (over direct drive) !??
 
Personally I think for durability and maintinance belt drive is the way to go. On a direct or gear reduction drive you have a huge amount of vibration transferred directly to the pump along with heat. As far as servicing the pump you can easilly disconnect the pump for major service and if need be it can be replaced in the field with out any special tools. Where as a direct or gear system you need to remove allen screws holding the keys in place ect.
 
My configuration wont allow double intake. I have the cogged bx belt and am running better than 24 hp.
 
a 1 inch line "in it's face" with fittings that are of larger inside-diameter,
will be fine for 5gpm, but..
you have a BUNCH of Hp to spare..
Do you have the engine running at reduced rpm's for quieter running ??

Which model AR XW series is that ??.. If the XW5.5..
at 1600rpm you could have 6.3gpm and 4000psi, with the B&S VG-23 running easy..
I'm putting one in my showroom next week.
It's the perfect combo for a 21" surface cleaner.

Good call on the cogged belts.
 
I think the third belt just looks cool:cool:

I finally admitted my old 4gpm whitco's last leg was about gone. Im going to put the skid and heater in the barn. This afternoon we coupled the 13 honda with a ts2021 by 2 belts. Used the coldwater section of the skid to mount it on. I was suprised by how little time it took and am looking foward to trying out.
 
I just went down to the local bearing belt place they weren't too much.
 
Tom, how do you tighten the belts? I did not see an adjustment bolt to move the pump unless it is under the pump where you can't see it that good.

The belt tensioner is one of the problems that I have not seen a manufacturer make a solution for when guys make their own rigs or modify rigs in use. It could be simple but a lot of guys like me don't know how to weld.
 
Chris there is a piece of angle in front of the rails with a hole in it. Under the pump is a stub of angle with a bolt through it that pulls on the angle/rails. The stub is welded to the 'floor'. There are motor mounts for electric motors that are adjustable, they might fit a pump.

http://www.dultmeier.com/products/search/549

GN-3M276-Motor-Base.jpg
 

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Thanks Tom.
 
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