Restored building....now I have a problem.......

C

cvpw

New member
Hey everyone.....I feel kinda bad because I only come in here when I have a problem...hmm...guess I'll have to change that.
Anyway, recently my company restored a 56,000 sq. ft building 4 stories up. We used a product called diedrich's 101 masonary restorer (great product by the way!!!) We were initially going to use a 5 to 1 ration on the chemicle but because of the cold weather here in cleveland (34 degrees when doing the job) we had to use the restorer straight. I guess basically the restorer is hydroflouric acid and some soaps.
Now to my problem.....before we started the job we tarped and taped all the windows making sure the chemicle did not get to the glass so it would not be etched. However, once we finished and began taking the plastic down we noticed a white haze in some spots where the plastic was actually touching the windows. We have tried everything to remove it rubbing compound, xylene, mineral spirits even someone said to use oven cleaner....(didn't work) ....I had a couple of window cleaning contractors out and they told me it was not etched.....but they don't know how to remove it. I know we are not window cleaners but I figured mabye someone has run into this problem
Could the acid have gone through the plastic and burned the window?? If anyone has an idea I would appreciate it.
Thanks
 
Ummmm. question.... did the acid eat through the plastic or melt it at all? I am wonderng if any got underneath and etched the glass...

Beth:(

p.s. post pics...it would help us all help you. Envirospec sells a product called glass de-etch.
 
I promise pics by tomorrow......thanks for the intrest
 
This is going to sound wild, but we are used to that here.
It could be that the windows were covered long enough that the palstic released a vapor that attached to the windows. IF so I would bet you will need some sort of petor chemical to remove it. WD-40, or the like. After you use it, you will still need to clean the window, but I have a hunch that this might work, especially since the window cleaners said it is not etched.

Scott Stone
 
I can't quite make out the problem, but if the glass isn't etched, then you might be able to scrape it off, keep the window well soaped and use brand new blades and change frequentlt and only scrape in one direction, oh yeah and try it on a small unnoticple spot first.
I know this sounds to simple, but sometimes things are simple and we just look to hard.
Anyway if it doesn't work, you haven't lost anything.

Gav
 
If the glass is etched - EnviroSpec sells a product called "Glass De Etcher" - have not tried it personally.

I would recommend the same as Outlaw - scrape with razor blade first.

I would also recommend talking to the Diedrich rep to see if they may be able to help.

As a former trouble shooter - any time you run across a problem situation as this, take pictures and also save as much of the "evidence" (the plastic) as possible to help in evaluating what caused the problem. In a case like this I would have also tried to see if any of the solution made it behind the plastic (where masking comes loose).

With that said:
Normally, even undiluted D101 should not harm plastic sheeting.
However, the product is not really recommended for use below 40 degrees F. Diedrich states that cold weather will adversely affect the solution. At 34 degrees with any wind, you'll get the wind-chill and the non-acids may freeze creating an even stronger acid than expected.

Normally - we don't cover windows, but rinse frequently almost the the point of being anal about it. About the only time we mask is if a door's been installed and it has leaded or decorated glass - then we wet first, then mask - then wet after removing the plastic and then clean the window (water and squeegee...).


Regards,
 
film

Does the film on the window feel kinda stiky in a way if it does let me know i know just the thing that will take it off. Sometimes the plastic bleeds this film if some of the chemical touched the other side, causing a film that usually comes off easy.
 
ron p

you should check out www.eacochem.com
there restorer's will prove to be a better product for the restoration and no extra cost and time to cover windows.
Also if you contact them they will point you in the right direction of the problem you have now.
Few in the building restoration buiss. know as much about it as them and they specialize in screw-up fixes.1-800-313-8505 Condinsation between plastic and glass could have contained some of your cleaning product and affected the silica in the glass. They have cleaners for this.
Good luck and keep me updated on the outcome.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone......I have figured out what happened and why.....I had a glass restoration expert on the site and what happened was: After putting up the plastic some areas of the windows were wet and the plastic stuck to the window....somehow the cleaner made it's way between the plastic and the glass and actually cleaned the areas of the windows that the plastic was touching.....so in fact the areas that I thought were messed up....were just really really clean glass. So now the problem is to clean the windows around these areas really well also... I had this company to do this and they told me they have a product called z-11 that will clean the rest of the glass to the same point. He did a test area and it looks really good.....Well at least I don't have to replace windows....I am going to have pics tomorrow cause my camera is on another job site just so everyone can see. Oh yeah...there were a few areas of glass that did get burned (not etched) and he will be able to grind the glass to make it match again. At least I can sleep now at night.....LOL


Ron....I am definitly going to check out that company for future restoration products...Thanks
 
Paul what is envirospec????? and where can I find their products for future refrence
 
I worked for US Precision Lens (now owned by Corning) a while back and used polishing rouge and lapping compounds to remove scratches and make nice finishes on projection TV and camera optical lens surfaces. These would also work on acid damaged glass. Most likely hardware stores, plate glass shops and even 24 eye glass shops sell them or can direct you to a find or recommend a good product.

There are also kits for polishing acrylics, called "Clearfly" - repairs crazed, scratched acrylic windows - www.airpart.com


Regards,
 
To further comment on EaCo Chem - www.eacochem.com -

They sell three magic potions that can be applied to numerous cleaning challenges:

Sabrestore:
- "Artillery Fungus"
- "Gum Shadows"
These two should be worth their weight in gold if it works!
But wait, there's more!
- "Removes paint wash from brick"
- "Removes Efflorescence"
Now we're moving into Platinum territory!
- "Removes Sealant Stains"
- "Removes rust stains from concrete"
- "Cleans Gutters"
But wait, there's even more than that!
- Cleans Anodized Aluminum
- Removes Clay stains from concrete
- Removes Copper stains from limestone
- Removes overspray from glass (sealant, etc.)
- Cleans Stainless Steel
- Removes Calcium stains

NMD-80:
- New construction brick and stone cleaner
- Cleans masonry blocks
- Removes efflorescence from concrete blocks
- Cleans concrete
- Etc., etc.

GS Restore:
- Removes rust from concrete surfaces
- Remove efflorescence from brick & masonry surfaces
- Removes Paint Wash from brick
- Cleans Terra Cotta

I wonder if I can get one of my locals to carry this stuff???

Add Gutter Zap, HD-80 and Citrolic Acid and you've covered 75% of your cleaning needs for house, concrete and masonry.


Regards,
 
Paul,
I'm confused again, I always thought Efflorescence was like the black stuff that bleeds through materials like Stucco, if so how would anything remove it? The same thing goes for rust on concrete, a lot of times I've come across this, it seems to me like its bled through from the rebar or wire and I have not been able to touch it.
Any help on these two things would be greatly appeciated, because I run into them on a constant basis!
Gav
 
outlaw/paul b

eff. is the white lime you see running down masonary surfaces.
Your talking about plain ol rust.
You can get it off but it will return unless sealed.
try two stepping it with HYDROFLORIC ACID [alum. brightner] followed by a truck soap.
Paul i hear there stuff is very very good BUT you can watch the $$$$ shoot out the end of the wand.
very high priced stuff
 
Ron,
I'm with you on the cost issue - that was my first impression.
I may still try some of their products on a small scale. If any of it can be diluted more than what I'm using and still work better, it may make it affordable. If not, I'll end up blowing some beer money and it'll be nice to know if I'm using the best product.


Gav,
Efflorescence is basically salt that's drawn from the brick that has been exposed to moisture. Lime runs are a bit different - they can come from the brick or the mortar joints (mortar contains lime). Both can be cleaned and avoided if the bricks are sealed (although they may or they may not return unsealed). Same with rust - if it's properly sealed, moisture and air can't penetrate to start the oxidization process.

If you go to www.Prosoco.com under RESOURCES then QUESTIONS & ANSWERS then COMMON BRICK QUESTIONS you'll find photos of different stains and which of their product(s) will remedy the situations. Click on the photos and you'll get a pop-up. Make sure you close the pop-up via the "Return to Common Brick Problems" at the bottom of the pop-up. If you close at the top, you'll have to start over again each time.

It's nice to actually see photos of different challanges facing you in the masonry cleaning arena. Efflorescence is under the first photo (top left) titled "White Powder".


Regards,
 
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