Amsoil vs Rotella

AZ PowerWash Pros

New member
I usually get Rotella in my 7.3 but I have had a couple lube shops tell me I should switch over to Amsoil http://www.amsoil.com/

This guy tells me I wont have to change my oil for 10K miles... Its like $50 more for Amsoil instead or Rotella...

Does anyone know about this? For some reason not changing my oil for 10K miles seems like some BS to me.

Anyone??
 
Ty, I had a fleet of vans for dry clean delivery and averaged well over 30k per year on each. Some were over 50k.

I tried amsoil first, sent in the samples, then accidentally sent in a sample of one of the trucks with mobil one and the results were the same. So I started using mobil one every 10k and never had any engine problems. I had one Ford E350 that I got 465k or so on and it was still running fine when I got rid of it.

I didn't have any diesels, so I didn't use the Rotella.
 
I also used Amsoil for awhile and the samples were no different from Rotella, which by the way has many million miles of service from the trucking industries. I used shell rotella for many years in my semi's and I would say that 80% of the trucking industry does as well. Rotella has excellent detergents for cleaning soot out of the diesel engines and many use it in their gassers as well.
 
I have talked to a lot of over the road drivers and the majority of them use the Shell Rotella.

I don't use it in my Cummins as the dealer recommended the Delo400 but I have talked to a couple of guys with Cummins engines and they told me that they switched over to the Rotella and have had good luck.
 
I have talked to a lot of over the road drivers and the majority of them use the Shell Rotella.

I don't use it in my Cummins as the dealer recommended the Delo400 but I have talked to a couple of guys with Cummins engines and they told me that they switched over to the Rotella and have had good luck.

Delo is very good oil as well, thats what I used in the beginning for my old 24 valve cummins.
 
The thing is, that contrary to popular belief, Oil does not break down. I know we have all heard all our lives that oil breaks down but in fact it does not. What really happens is that oil gets contaminated (dirty). This is the reason the viscosity changes. With all the metal wear and carbon contamination, all you are accomplishing with a synthetic oil is to dirty up a higher priced oil.

Growing up, my grandfather had a 64 Pontiac Tempest and the only thing he ever did to that car was tune it up and change the oil. He would only use 30W Pennzoil and nothing else in that car. Well when he finally sold it, it had 265k miles on it and still ran like new.

I would not hesitate to use the Rotella but I would also change the filter at 5k and the oil at 10k because the contamination is the problem not the oil.

This guy is talking about oil in motorcycles but he has some good information. http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html
 
I think it safe to say more big truck diesels are run on Shell Rotella then any other Oil. That said, we use whatever Non Synthetic Diesel Oil is on sale at the Auto Parts Store that meets specs for our Diesel Trucks, and change it when it is time. Consumers Reports has done tons of tests on Motor Oils in NYC Taxicabs, and found no difference with Synthetics vs Conventional Oil, and no difference between brands of Oil and wear. They pulled the engines down after hundreds of thousands of miles, and measured everything. I do not recall them testing Diesels though, and there may be a difference ?
We do like Motorcraft Oil Filters for our Ford Super Duty Diesels. I will cheap out and buy whatever oil is on sale, but I just can't buy a cheap oil filter, for some reason ?
 
Filtration is the key, particularly for engines running HEUI injectors. They are actuated by high pressure oil, and do not like dirty oil. FS2500 is the answer because it filters your oil even more then a standard filter, thus lengthening the life cycle of the oil. You still have to maintain the filter, though.
 
If you are only going to use the Amsoil and not install a bypass oil filter you are wasting money.

The FS2500 as Scott said is great,but on the high end in price.There are hundreds of articles online about building a diy bypass that will help keep oil clean longer,but with diesel replacement engines running about $13k I'll stick with the 7k interval that blackstone has recommended for my truck running Mobile Delvac
 
Here is the full Consumers Reports Article

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]The surprising truth about motor oils[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]Our 4-1/2-million-mile test with a fleet of New York City taxicabs turned some conventional wisdom on its head. [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif] Mobil commercial claims its oil "has been in more Indy 500 winners than any other oil." Quaker State shows an engine with a terminally corroded inside what they imply could happen when you use another oil. Exxon's commercial for its Superflo oil urges motorists to "rely on the tiger."
Oil companies spend millions of advertising dollars each year to convince you that their oil can make your car's engine perform better and last longer. And purveyors of motor-oil and engine "treatments" assert that their products offer engine protection that oil alone can't provide. In our most ambitious test project ever, we set out to discover whether such claims are fact or fancy.
One way to gauge the performance of motor oils is to test them on the road. We did just that, using a fleet of 75 New York City taxicabs. Indeed, the oil industry itself tests its oils in New York City taxis.
For 22 months, we tested the performance of 20 popular motor oils. Each of those oils met the industry's latest standards, as certified by a starburst symbol on the container.
We also tested Slick 50 Engine Treatment and STP Engine and Oil Treatments.
In addition to the taxicab tests, we had the oils' chemical and physical properties analyzed by an independent lab. We also surveyed our subscribers about their oil-changing experiences and preferences, and we sent shoppers to quick-lube centers across the country to assess the service
[FONT=arial,helvetica][SIZE=-1][h=4]Testing the oils[/h]
[/FONT] We put identical rebuilt engines with precisely measured parts into the cabs at the beginning of the test, and we changed their oil every 6,000 miles. That's about twice as long as the automakers recommend for the severe service that taxicabs see, but we chose that interval to accelerate the test results and provide worst-case conditions. After 60,000 miles, we disassembled each engine and checked for wear and harmful deposits.
Our test conditions were grueling, to say the least. The typical Big Apple cab is driven day and night, in traffic that is legendary for its perversity, by cabbies who are just as legendary for their driving abandon.
When the cabs aren't on the go, they're typically standing at curbside with the engine idling - far tougher on motor oil than highway driving. What's more, the cabs accumulate lots of miles very quickly, making them ideal for our purposes. Big-city cabs don't see many cold start-ups or long periods of high speed driving in extreme heat. But our test results relate to the most common type of severe service - stop-and-go city driving.
Each of the 20 oils we studied was tested in three cabs to provide meaningful test results even if a few cabs fell out with mechanical problems or because of accidents. (Six of the 75 engines did, in fact, have problems, none apparently related to the oil's performance.)
Our shoppers all across the country bought hundreds of quart containers of oil. Some brands had slightly different formulations in different areas, but all the oils included a full package of additives.
The independent lab helped us identify the most representative formulations of each brand. Our engineers transferred containers of that oil to coded 55-gallon drums and hauled them to the fleet garage for testing.
Ideally, oil should be thin enough to flow easily when the engine is cold and remain thick enough to protect the engine when it's hot. The lab analyses of each oil's viscosity characteristics - its ability to flow-indicate that motor oils have improved since 1987, when we last tested them. This time, far fewer test samples failed to meet the viscosity standards for their grade - and those were typically outside the limits by only a slight amount. No brand stood out as having a significant problem.
We tested oils of the two most commonly recommended viscosity grades - 10W-30 and 5W-30. Automakers specify grades according to the temperature range expected over the oil-change period. The lower the number, the thinner the oil and the more easily it flows.
In 5W-30 oil, for example, the two numbers mean it's a "multiviscosity" or "multigrade" oil that's effective over a range of temperatures. The first number, 5, is an index that refers to how the oil flows at low temperatures. The second number, 30, refers to how it flows at high temperatures. The W designation means the oil can be used in winter.
A popular belief is that 5W-30 oils, despite their designation, are too thin to protect vital engine parts when they get hot. However, one of our laboratory tests measured the viscosity of oils under high-temperature, high-stress conditions and found essentially no difference between 5W-30 oils and their 10W-30 brand mates. But at low temperatures, the 5W-30 oil flowed more easily.
Viscosity grade is important, so be careful. Recommendations vary with the make, engine, and model year of the car, so check your owner's manual and ask the mechanic for the proper grade of oil.
Of the 20 oils we tested, nine were conventional 10W-30 oils, and eight were 5W-30. We also tested two synthetic oils, Mobil 1 and Pennzoil Performax, and one synthetic-and conventional blend, Valvoline DuraBlend; all three were 10W-30 oils. [FONT=arial,helvetica][SIZE=-1] [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=arial,helvetica][SIZE=-1][h=4]No brand performed best[/h][/SIZE][/FONT] If you've been loyal to one brand, you may be surprised to learn that every oil we tested was good at doing what motor oil is supposed to do. More extensive tests, under other driving conditions, might have revealed minor differences. But thorough statistical analysis of our data showed no brand-not even the expensive synthetics-to be meaningfully better or worse in our tests.
After each engine ran about 60,000 miles (and through 10 months of seasonal changes), we disassembled it and measured the wear on the camshaft, valve lifters, and connecting-rod bearings. We used a tool precise to within 0.00001 inch to measure wear on the key surfaces of the camshaft, and a tool precise to within 0.0001 inch on the valve lifters. The combined wear for both parts averaged only 0.0026 inch, about the thickness of this magazine page. Generally, we noted as much variation between engines using the same oil as between those using different oils. Even the engines with the most wear didn't reach a level where we could detect operational problems.
We measured wear on connecting rod bearings by weighing them to the nearest 0.0001 gram. Wear on the key surface of each bearing averaged 0.240 gram - about the weight of seven staples. Again, all the tested oils provided adequate protection.
Our engineers also used industry methods to evaluate sludge and varnish deposits in the engine. Sludge is a mucky sediment that can prevent oil from circulating freely and make the engine run hotter. Varnish is a hard deposit that would remain on engine parts if you wiped off the sludge. It can make moving parts stick.
All the oils proved excellent at preventing sludge. At least part of the reason may be that sludge is more apt to form during cold startups and short trips, and the cabs were rarely out of service long enough for their engine to get cold. Even so, the accumulations in our engines were so light that we wouldn't expect sludge to be a problem with any of these oils under most conditions.
Variations in the buildup of varnish may have been due to differences in operating temperature and not to the oils. Some varnish deposits were heavy enough to lead to problems eventually, but no brand consistently produced more varnish than any other.
The bottom line. In our tests, brand didn't matter much as long as the oil carried the industry's starburst symbol
Beware of oils without the starburst; they may lack the full complement of additives needed to keep modem engines running reliably.
One distinction: According to the laboratory tests, Mobil 1 and Pennzoil Performax synthetics flow exceptionally easily at low temperatures - a condition our taxi tests didn't simulate effectively. They also had the highest viscosity under high-temperature, high-stress conditions, when a thick oil protects the engine. Thus, these oils may be a good choice for hard driving in extreme temperatures Note, too, that a few automakers recommend specific brands of motor oil in the owner's manual. You may need to follow those recommendations to keep a new car in warranty.
[FONT=arial,helvetica][SIZE=-1][h=4]Oil changes: How often?[/h][/SIZE][/FONT] The long-time mantra of auto mechanics has been to change your oil every 3000 miles. Most automakers recommend an oil change every 7,500 miles (and a specific time interval) for "normal" driving, and every 3,000 miles for "severe" driving - frequent trips of less than four or five miles, stop-and-go traffic, extended idling, towing a trailer, or dusty or extremely cold conditions. Many motorists' driving falls into one or more of those "severe" categories.
In our survey, almost two-thirds of our readers said they had their oil changed every 3,000 miles or less. They may be following the thinking expressed by one of our staffers: "I have my oil changed every 3,000 miles because that's what my father did, and all his cars lasted for many years."
To determine whether frequent oil changes really help, we changed the oil in three cabs every 3,000 miles, using Pennzoil 10W-30. After 60,000 miles, we compared those engines with the engines from our base tests of the same oil, changed every 6,000 miles. We saw no meaningful differences. When Mobil 1 synthetic oil came out, Mobil presented it as an oil that, while expensive, could go 25,000 miles between changes. That claim is no longer being made. But Mobil 1 is still on the market, selling at a premium (along with pricey synthetic competitors from several other companies). And synthetic oil's residual reputation as a long-lasting product may still prompt some people to stretch their oil changes longer than the automaker recommends.
Determining whether synthetic oils last longer than conventional ones would require a separate test protect. To try to get some indication, we put Mobil 1 synthetic into three cabs and changed their oil every 12,000 miles.
We intended to compare the results of these tests with those from the three taxicabs whose Mobil 1 was changed at our normal interval, every 6,000 miles. Unfortunately, two of the three engines using the 12,000-mile interval developed problems. (We couldn't attribute those problems to the oil.) The third engine fared no worse than the three whose oil had been changed at 6,000-mile intervals.
The bottom line. Modern motor oils needn't be changed as often as oils did years ago. More frequent oil changes won't hurt your car, but you could be spending money unnecessarily and adding to the nation's energy and oil-disposal problems.
Even in the severe driving conditions that a New York City taxi endures, we noted no benefit from changing the oil every 3,000 miles rather than every 6,000. If your driving falls into the "normal" service category, changing the oil every 7,500 miles (or at the automaker's suggested intervals) should certainly provide adequate protection. (We recommend changing the oil filter with each oil change.)
[FONT=arial,helvetica][SIZE=-1][h=4]Testing Slick 50 and STP[/h][/SIZE][/FONT] We also tested Slick 50 and STP Engine Treatments and STP Oil Treatment, each in three cabs. (Slick 50 costs $17.79 per container; STP Engine Treatment has been discontinued.) All three boast that they reduce engine friction and wear.
The engine treatments are added with the oil (we used Pennzoil 10W-30). They claim they bond to engine parts and provide protection for 25,000 miles or more. We used each according to instructions.
The STP Oil Treatment is supposed to be added with each oil change. It comes in one formulation (black bottle, $4.32) for cars with up to 36,000 miles, another (blue bottle, $3.17) for cars that have more than 36,000 miles or are more than four years old. We used the first version for the first 36,000 miles, the second for the rest of the test-again, with Pennzoil 10W-30.
When we disassembled the engines and checked for wear and deposits, we found no discernible benefits from any of these products.
The bottom line. We see little reason why anyone using one of today's high-quality motor oils would need these engine/oil treatments. One notable effect of STP Oil Treatment was an increase in oil viscosity; it made our 10W-30 oil act more like a 15W-40, a grade not often recommended. In very cold weather, that might pose a risk of engine damage.
On the basis of our test results, we think that the commonly recommended 3,000-mile oil-change interval is conservative. For "normal" service, 7,500-mile intervals (or the recommendation in your owner's manual) should be fine. Change the oil at least that often to protect your engine and maintain your warranty. Even for the severe service experienced by the taxis in our tests a 6,000- mile interval was adequate. But some severe service - frequent cold starts and short trips, dusty conditions, trailer towing - may require a shorter interval. Note, too, that special engines such as diesels and turbos, which we didn't test, may need more frequent oil changes.

[/SIZE][/FONT]
 
One other tip that has nothing to do with oil use but rather cleaning your injectors. Add a quart of ATF to the fuel. This is the best injector cleaner on the market and much cheaper.
 
That used to be the case. It is not recommended anymore, but you are free to do as you wish.
 
I guy that i clean for worked for a large oil company that distubuted oil and he said the same thing that Chris pointed out in the taxi cab testing was true.Mostly same oil and performance just different names and definatly prices we all know that.Chris are you still running the isuzus for the roof cleaning?Not to hi jack the thread but its a related topic.What would be a good thing to clean the washer motors off.My motor was all shiney and clean an now it looks like it has been rolled around in the landfield for about a week lol.
 
"One distinction: According to the laboratory tests, Mobil 1 and Pennzoil Performax synthetics flow exceptionally easily at low temperatures - a condition our taxi tests didn't simulate effectively. They also had the highest viscosity under high-temperature, high-stress conditions, when a thick oil protects the engine."


I say synthetic is better in every way. I think its made from restaurant grease, and we know how tough that is! It is 'different' than all mineral oils, there's always a 5-quart on sale at walmart so it's not that much more than regular. I also say straight weight is better than multi.

Whats a bypass filter? I did see this show where semi-trucks had this separator/filter thing that was supposed to keep the oil clean forever.
 
"One distinction: According to the laboratory tests, Mobil 1 and Pennzoil Performax synthetics flow exceptionally easily at low temperatures - a condition our taxi tests didn't simulate effectively. They also had the highest viscosity under high-temperature, high-stress conditions, when a thick oil protects the engine."


I say synthetic is better in every way. I think its made from restaurant grease, and we know how tough that is! It is 'different' than all mineral oils, there's always a 5-quart on sale at walmart so it's not that much more than regular. I also say straight weight is better than multi.

Whats a bypass filter? I did see this show where semi-trucks had this separator/filter thing that was supposed to keep the oil clean forever.


What you see on semi is a centrifuge it spins the oil clean. Go to powerstroke.org and do a search for oil bypass or do a google search for the same you will learn a lot.If I could afford a centrifuge my F250 would have one and oil bypass,as well as,coolant bypass are in the near future along with a ccv mod.
 
Since I bought my Dodge new back in 2005, I have changed the Cummins oil every 3000 miles just in case as most of the driving is in the city until recently.

I know the manual says 7500 and 10000 miles depending on the driving but I did not want to take any chances.

I also like the idea of the bypass filter system, you can see them in all kinds of Diesel magazines. They clean the oil with filters and keep on cleaning. I talked to some truck drivers and they had told me that with the oil bypass filter system you can go up to 25,000 to 30,000 miles between oil changes. I like the idea of the filter but not on changing the oil that less frequent.
 
One other tip that has nothing to do with oil use but rather cleaning your injectors. Add a quart of ATF to the fuel. This is the best injector cleaner on the market and much cheaper.
I think the best injector cleaner is to "drive it like you stole it".
Once every month or so, I blow my 6.0 out by driving the living pizz out of it.
 
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