Brass vs. Nickel Pump Head

HighTide

HighTide

New member
I am considering replacing my existing TS-2021 pump with a new one (belt drive to a Vanguard 18 hp hot water skid -- 3,500 psi at 5.6 gpm). A distributor is offering a decent deal on one with a brass head, instead of a nickel plated head. What are the drawbacks with the brass head? The brass head pumps are around $50 cheaper. Thanks for any feedback.
 
Dave Why are you changing it out?

Myself I would go with the nickel, the only reason is that its harder than brass.
What are the watt on them?
 
HighTide said:
I am considering replacing my existing TS-2021 pump with a new one (belt drive to a Vanguard 18 hp hot water skid -- 3,500 psi at 5.6 gpm). A distributor is offering a decent deal on one with a brass head, instead of a nickel plated head. What are the drawbacks with the brass head? The brass head pumps are around $50 cheaper. Thanks for any feedback.
Click to expand...

There is really no difference in strength or durability. A coating of nickel that is thinner than tin foil won't make or break it.
 
The old TS2021-B mystery. I have had the guy at General tell me there is no such thing as a brass 2021. I have also heard over the years that they are a head from another lower volume model made into a 2021 - general won't warranty them - anyone selling one is a scam - etc etc. What gives, what is the real story? I have had both and no difference, I wonder what the point of the nickel plate is - there's certainly far more plain brass heads in all types of applications.
 
scottwash said:
Dave Why are you changing it out?
Click to expand...

Scott, after spending around $200 to rebuilt this barely 2-year old pump by having the so-called "local pro" work on it twice, I still can't get the pressure needed to clean concrete efficiently without 1,000 -2,000 spikes that break my hoses (and just recently my hot water coil). I have to move down to 25025 or 25020 nozzles (instead of 25030's) to get the needed 3,000+ psi on my surface cleaner (by reducing my gpm). Now its machine-gunning AGAIN after just having all my valves checked and cleaned out last week. I figure I can have it rebuilt again or just buy a new one for $346 + shipping. I clean a lot of concrete and need something that works right!!!
 
Ditto on the unloader. Make sure your filter is clear, too. You might have a filter in the most unlikely place, so make sure that there is not another that needs to be cleaned.
 
Do you have another one you can put on and try? The spike in pressure sounds like the unloader. What type of unloader is it? Is it set up to bypass to a tank?
 
Have a shop diconnect the unloader put a proper tip on the end of the test gun and see what your pump can really do. If it is running to spec Check and change your unloader next.
 
There was a thread over at TGS about the brass head vs. nickel plated head a while back, I think that John Allison was describing the differences and how there is no such thing as the 2021b.
 
The entire reason for nickel plating is for corrosion control and thread strength. Brass is soft and more pliable than nickel. Also, brass must first be copper plated prior to being nickel plated. Doesn't really make much difference on a pump head though, because only the exterior of the pump gets the plating. Mostly just for looks. If they plated the entire pump - inside and out, it would help reduce wear in the piston cylinders. I can't say that I've ever noticed any wear in the cylinders of a pressure pump, so it seems like a waste. How do I know this you say? I use to do nickel & bright tin plating for a living (my part time job) back in the early 90's.
 
ccobb said:
Do you have another one you can put on and try? The spike in pressure sounds like the unloader. What type of unloader is it? Is it set up to bypass to a tank?
Click to expand...

I am currently using the green spring unloader (YU-2140). I did buy a K-10 and put it on a couple of weeks ago. Same problem as we couldn't get the pressure adjusted correctly which seems to point back to the pump so I put the green spring back on to get a little more psi out of it. My setup bypasses to the tank. It sounds like I need to rebuild the pump again but I lack any confidence in the shop in St Augustine and the one in Jacksonville that have both worked on my unit (unsuccessfully as I have almost $300 in repair costs and unit is still not working right). I mean if a so-called pro can't fix it, I don't think that I can as I am not a mechanically-inclined person...but I am trying.
 
The TS2021b is a pump in the same series as the TS2021 that has been re rated by one of the suppliers. This particular pump carries no warranty from GP but is warranted by the supplier. The only real difference is the TS2021 has a larger oil galley and the plated head. For $50 it is worth the savings the pump is just as durable and should last just as long. If you are one for manufacturer warranty though go with the TS2021 although none of the wearable items are covered either way.

If you are spiking over the max operating pressure (3500-3800 psi)the unloader is not set correctly. If you are not achieving the proper pressure check your filter, new nozzle and check the pressure if the pump without the unloader (use proper procedures). If your pressure is good then you need to change your unloader it may be stuck in a partial bypass. If the pressure is low you need to repack the pump. You may also need to check your belts they could be slipping,
 
Paul, with that said I think I need to repack the pump (this was done about 2 months ago). The belts seem fine to me and by those at the shops where I had the work done. Everything is 2 years old.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top