Building a new trailer....the right way!!

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bmetcalf5

New member
My name is William Metcalf with Marlin Pressure Cleaning here in Central Florida. I am building a new 5x14 tandem trailer with 2 8 GPM machines GX 690 AR pumps.

My question is with the tank.... I have been running a 125 gallon tank to one 8 GPM and one 4 GPM and always have to stress over the water level. Do ant of the float switches that kill the engine work? How about the overflow valves? It just seems that I am either overflowing with water or I am worried to death and turning off my machines to prevent needing another seal kit!!! has anyone ever built a tank setup that wont overflow and will kill the machines if too low?
 
If you feel the water run out, run like heck back to the machine! Is that good enough Russ?
 
The big diaphragm style valves let the most water in, in my experience. Walters brand has a beefy aluminum model that has lasted me years and years.
 
Hudson valves go on the top but I've had nothing but trouble with them.

Ironically the guys just came home this morning telling me my side load valve is clogged up again.

I'd like a valve that will work for at least three or four years with no problems that lets full flow from a 5/8 feed line fill the tank quickly. The one I have now is supposed to be 10 gpm, but it sure doesn't seem like it is.
 
I have had good luck with the Hudson valves, sometimes trash gets into the screen and it needs cleaning sometimes but they do good for me.
 
How about the float switches for low water shutdown. You guys have good luck with those? Those are the ones that seem fragile...(see liquid level link above). It seems there are less complaints about those than the overflow ones!! I hate running around a building just because I'm worried the water is "getting low"
 
Great! I really appreciate the input from everyone. i am new here and really like the "non-distributer" opinions.. I will be ordering these... I was apprehensive to drill all those bulkheads just to "try it out" Without sounding too soft...its nice to see that there is a place like this where we can help each other. I look forward to paying it forward.
 

AZ PowerWash Pros said:
I removed all my float valves from my tanks. The main issue was they hang down and you lose like 100 gallons of water that could have been filled up. Some jobs you need that extra 100 gallons if you can not stay hooked up to water.
Click to expand...

I have a filter prior to the hudson float valve that removes all the junk, it clear and so it works great,
I also put a tee at the hudson float valve with a ball value this way when I need to fill it up to the top of the tank I just open up the ball value and tops of the tank off. Other wise when pulling from a home owner I just shut it off the ball valve and it fills to about 7/8 of the tank.
 
Put your pressure washers up front on trailer-followed by water tank- then chemical tank- then hose reels- that is the best set up for us. Also if you are doing alot of home owners have the hose reels on the passage side of the trailer towards the back. All the downstreams in the back away from the pressure washers, that way you wont have someone throwing chemcials all over the pw

Keep all your gas tank facing the same side of your trucks that way it will be easyer to fill eveything at once, if possible
 
Tony Shelton said:
Hudson valves go on the top but I've had nothing but trouble with them.

Ironically the guys just came home this morning telling me my side load valve is clogged up again.

I'd like a valve that will work for at least three or four years with no problems that lets full flow from a 5/8 feed line fill the tank quickly. The one I have now is supposed to be 10 gpm, but it sure doesn't seem like it is.
Click to expand...


I have been running the walters valves for years and they let a lot of water through. I have a chunky aluminum model I cant find anymore, just noticed the company is in a little town East of Tucson.
http://waltersvalves.com/gpage.html

Just found this Cleveland brand
http://www.clevelandvalveco.com/

These kind of valves use the water pressure to shut its own self off, instead of sheer mechanical force.
 
Tony Shelton said:
Hudson valves go on the top but I've had nothing but trouble with them.

Ironically the guys just came home this morning telling me my side load valve is clogged up again.

I'd like a valve that will work for at least three or four years with no problems that lets full flow from a 5/8 feed line fill the tank quickly. The one I have now is supposed to be 10 gpm, but it sure doesn't seem like it is.
Click to expand...


I have been running the walters valves for years and they let a lot of water through. I have a chunky aluminum model I cant find anymore, just noticed the company is in a little town East of Tucson.
http://waltersvalves.com/gpage.html

Just found this Cleveland brand
http://www.clevelandvalveco.com/

These kind of valves use the water pressure to shut its own self off, instead of sheer mechanical force.
 
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