Burner issues

Clear Shine

Clear Shine

New member
Ok, I have had the day from Hades trying to clean today. I have a 2 year old Pressure Pro 5.5gpm hot skid. I have had issues with the burner and most recently, the burner relay. I have gone through 3 of the here lately. Had a shopping center to do today, so about 2 hours into cleaning, the relay goes out again. I jumped both of the hot wires and it worked ok for a while. The hot wire going into the igniter was hot as a fire cracker and it kept shutting down the burner. I would readjust the jumper wire and it would come on for a while, then fizzle out again. During this time when I jumped the wires, the smoke was darker than the normal white smoke that comes out. I will call Bob on monday or tuesday (whenever he opens) but in the mean time, I need the burner working for Monday if possible. Any suggestions why the hot wire going to the burner is getting so hot and IMHO frying the relays? The hot wire has burn marks on the plastic connector from the first time it fried the relay. FYI, I am only getting about 5 hrs life time (running anywhere from 30-45 min at a time) out of these relays.....
 
Can't help w the burner issue, but you had a shopping center to do today??? On Christmas Eve?? Is it a former shopping center???

Doug Rucker 281.883.8470 Clean and Green Solutions via Tapatalk
 
Check your voltage regulator going to your ignitor for the voltage going into it. Isolate your burner and run it off a jumper cable from your trucks battery and see if it clears it up.
 
Clear Shine said:
Ok, I have had the day from Hades trying to clean today. I have a 2 year old Pressure Pro 5.5gpm hot skid. I have had issues with the burner and most recently, the burner relay. I have gone through 3 of the here lately. Had a shopping center to do today, so about 2 hours into cleaning, the relay goes out again. I jumped both of the hot wires and it worked ok for a while. The hot wire going into the igniter was hot as a fire cracker and it kept shutting down the burner. I would readjust the jumper wire and it would come on for a while, then fizzle out again. During this time when I jumped the wires, the smoke was darker than the normal white smoke that comes out. I will call Bob on monday or tuesday (whenever he opens) but in the mean time, I need the burner working for Monday if possible. Any suggestions why the hot wire going to the burner is getting so hot and IMHO frying the relays? The hot wire has burn marks on the plastic connector from the first time it fried the relay. FYI, I am only getting about 5 hrs life time (running anywhere from 30-45 min at a time) out of these relays.....
Click to expand...

When was the last time battery changed?


Ron Musgraves text me for questions 480-522-5227 Pressure Washing Institute
 
Clear Shine said:
Good ideas guys....I think I have a weak/bad battery....I will get one at the Walmart on the way to the job on Monday morning. It's 2 years old and it has the original battery....
Click to expand...

Deep cycle


Ron Musgraves text me for questions 480-522-5227 Pressure Washing Institute
 
Yeap you need to get the biggest battery you can if your machine is running on a 12 volt burner system.Having a 5.5 gpm machine you probably have a beckett adc ignigtor the larger machines have the sdc ones.Your biggest battery draw is when your burner cycles on.Having said that when your battery starts getting low things dont work as they should.I would reccomend at least 1000 cranking amps for a battery.Good luck and i hope that is all your troubles just a battery.
 
Kiloman said:
Yeap you need to get the biggest battery you can if your machine is running on a 12 volt burner system.Having a 5.5 gpm machine you probably have a beckett adc ignigtor the larger machines have the sdc ones.Your biggest battery draw is when your burner cycles on.Having said that when your battery starts getting low things dont work as they should.I would reccomend at least 1000 cranking amps for a battery.Good luck and i hope that is all your troubles just a battery.
Click to expand...

I honestly don't know what I have...I thought I had a deep cycle on it, but it was what came with the machine when I bought it....I will make sure the new one is deep cycle and bigger for sure....
 
12 volt machines are always problems when they get old. I always start with re-wire and new battery. My mechanic and shop guy gave up on one once. Finally after changing everything we re-wired, runs like a top.

Deep cycles is a marine battery. They usually are 1000 cold cranking amps.


Ron Musgraves text me for questions 480-522-5227 Pressure Washing Institute
 
Clear Shine said:
Mine blows some white smoke when it first starts up....then usually doesn't blow smoke...
Click to expand...

Air mix is wrong. There's a screw that might have gotten loose on the adjustment. Check it, should be able to see if it's moved. Since its been in the same place for two years.


Ron Musgraves text me for questions 480-522-5227 Pressure Washing Institute
 
if you have a voltmeter, check voltage at the battery (engine off).
If voltage is below 12.0 volts, get ready to replace it.check battery voltage engine on.
if voltage is more than 12.5, and batt. voltage was below 12.0, replace the battery.
If the voltage with engine running didn't com up over 12.5.. look for burned connections at the regulator.
follow voltage to the fuel solenoid connector, if it is a plug-in type, on the solenoid, EXternal of the burner..
to check the voltage going to the solenoid
you should NEVER run the burner with the H.V. hinged open, without a spark-gap positioned on the H.V.
If you don't know what that means, don't go beyond the battery test, and get ready to call me.
judging from the symptoms you desribed, there is probably more than one problem.
go back to the battery, and inspect all the wires going to the burner, clean connections that are dirty,
and replace connections that are "darkened"or burnt, ..and call me
actually.. text me, and I'll call you as I can.
619-247-6492

If anyone has a Pressure-Pro schematic, please send to me via e-mail,
and I can more easily help the brother out. Eh?

I agree the air flow is needing an adjustment, but..
there's more to this repair..
it could likely involove a flood of unburned fuel in the heater,
so I think a tech should coach this repair to control the fire..
bad can get worse, if he doesn't have the experience.
 
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2 years old is NOT an old burner..
they need a tune-up every 12 months like clockwork,
or the dirty electrodes
and the spark-gap opening up causes stress on the H.V. and th relay that supplies it.
sound familliar ??
 
Hey Jerry! Thanks! I will test it out tommorow and text you and let you know...I am pretty sure I have a bad battery. I also may be having an ignitor going going bad. I have replaced the fuel pump and the soleniod (I didnt, but had it done) I have had alot of issues with the hot side of this rig....Thanks again for the steps to troubleshoot and I will text ya!
 
Replace the solderless connectors on the wiring. The darkened areas on these indicate arcing usually due to looseness. If it were an overload causing the heating, the wire insulation would be distorted as well, and the fuse would more than likely blow. Double check all the terminals on the back of the burner switch too.

I had to do this to a brand new one a couple of years ago.
 
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