Connecting Two Pressure Washers Together

Mike V., I feed off a tank with a 2inch pvc pipe and then neck it down. I would run a 2inch pvc wye pipe and then neck each 2 inch feed down to 3/4 inch with a bushing to a barb then the line to the machine. This way there is always ample supply shortly behind the water being fed. It also produces some pressure to feed the water to the machine, not soley relying on suction as the direct drives are not too good with that. Also, plumb the bypass to the tank, can't see if it is in the pics.
 
Yes Steven, the pressure will be the lesser. On a hot machine, it won't make a difference from one to the other. Check valves isolate each machine.

Siamese kits will not work properly with flow control unloaders or unloaders with built in easy start vavles.
 
Steven, if you had a Maxima, you would be able to really walk at a good pace with that much gpm's going into it, with the Big Guy, maybe a very fast walk or jog.

There is a guy that was running 17gpm's into his maxima and the guy was walking fast cleaning a gas station.

I will try to find the link and post it here, it was cool!

Here it is: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=biLjJVMCVVs&feature=channel&list=UL
 
I saw that video, I think Russ J posted it a while back... That is some fast cleaning power!

Maxima isn't in the plans just now - 3 big guys, hydro twister, classic and one of the GP hammerheads will have to do for now, lol.

Do you think it would be straightforward to build a removable frame to run
2 big guys side by side? ( on slightly ahead of the other to allow for overlap)
 
Steven Button said:
I saw that video, I think Russ J posted it a while back... That is some fast cleaning power!

Maxima isn't in the plans just now - 3 big guys, hydro twister, classic and one of the GP hammerheads will have to do for now, lol.

Do you think it would be straightforward to build a removable frame to run
2 big guys side by side? ( on slightly ahead of the other to allow for overlap)
Click to expand...

I have some ideas for something like that but a little bit different design.

I am having a welder look at some components this coming week to see about a different looking surface cleaner but with a path of about 40" to 60" wide but maneuverable and controllable like a big guy and light weight, mostly aluminum. The only problem is that you need at least 13gpm's to run it, preferably more so you can walk at a good pace.

If you were going to build something permanent with the big guy frames, I would cut about 2" or 3" off the sides where they will be close to each other so that the spray bars will be close and clean the gap, otherwise you have to have one of them slightly in front of the other at an angle, with cutting the decks, you would not need that but the cut is permanent unless you rigged up a bracket to re-attach the cut off piece when needed to run the big guys separately.

I don't like the idea of one huge 6' spraybar, it spins too slowly unless you rigged up an engine to turn the spray bar and you would need a separate trailer just for that surface cleaner. There are some videos of those huge surface cleaners on youtube. I would rather have smaller spray bars that are more efficient so you can walk faster.

There is always the Sirocco 40" deck, you don't have to use the vacuum recovery if you don't want to or if you don't have it, that same company rigged up the 40" deck to a mower and I think they are running about 17gpm's through it and they can move it fast also.

It all depends on what you want to do, recovery is great but if you don't need it on the job, that 40" deck is a great tool but if you want something wider and have the big guy decks, a frame made to attach them temporarily will do the job also. I am looking at the same brand of decks, just a different size so that I can change things out quickly if needed to put them back onto the original frames in minutes.
 
Glad that hose didnt rupture that close to his head that would have been bad.He was running around with that wand like he was in a hurry lol.
 
When Russ did that it made me think of people bumping their phones together. When connecting two machines together..."Bump how's that". Russ, roll out the Bump connector! Lol

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 
This is how i did it, made this video after the Vegas round table 2009, I enjoy the DIY tech stuff.

Getting more gpm, was one of the things everyone seemed to want at a job site. Most of us started with a 4 gpm unit or had one as backup, so why not put it to use and speed up your job in the process.

The other thing that amazed me after I got my first hot water machine was the amount of waste heat from the boilers, and the amount of fuel need (and cost) to raise the temperature of water via these heaters.

I have been saying pre-heat for hot water pressure washers for a long time, then Landa does it with the ECOS, now aaladin pw , and Jerry says he has something in the works (maybe we will see it 2013). I would still like to work with a manufacturer or OEM on a project like this.

The other thing that really had me going is vacuum recovery and mobile filtration, have had some great/ and not so great times with this. If anyone need my opinions on systems directed at our pressure wash market and even other markets, you are welcome to give me a call. I still maintain that flocculation is an awesome method of mobile water treatment for reuse.

Anyway here is the how to video I did on joining to machines,


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=02PkryqmatU
 
Last edited:
Johnson said:
Nigel, do you set the washers to a lower psi rating before joining them together? Say half maybe? Or do you just connect them as is?
Click to expand...

No I did not in the video, but in theory it would make sense to balance them out somewhat.

On a side note: I have noticed with electric vacuum in parallel that if one motor is more powerful than the other, it could reduce the maximum potential overall effect.
 
let me clarify this some more,

in the video I did not adjust the psi ratings of the individual machines, each machine separate with its unloader setup and correctly sized tip could produce a maximum of 3500 psi head pressure.


It is not necessary to run the machines at a lower psi than there maximum capable 3500 psi, ............ by me using a 2510 nozzle the online calculator shows what the psi outcome would be (input 8.65 for gpm and 10 for the nozzle, leave psi blank and click calculate) this equals ~3000 psi

If i had a 25095 tip the pressure would have been higher on the pump heads ,...........about 3300 psi, If had used a 2509 tip that would get me at maximum head psi ~ 3600 psi

Anything smaller than 9.0 orifice nozzle would yield diminishing returns, the water would then bypass.
 
810f250 said:
This is how i did it, made this video after the Vegas round table 2009, I enjoy the DIY tech stuff.

Getting more gpm, was one of the things everyone seemed to want at a job site. Most of us started with a 4 gpm unit or had one as backup, so why not put it to use and speed up your job in the process.

The other thing that amazed me after I got my first hot water machine was the amount of waste heat from the boilers, and the amount of fuel need (and cost) to raise the temperature of water via these heaters.

I have been saying pre-heat for hot water pressure washers for a long time, then Landa does it with the ECOS, now aaladin pw , and Jerry says he has something in the works (maybe we will see it 2013). I would still like to work with a manufacturer or OEM on a project like this.

The other thing that really had me going is vacuum recovery and mobile filtration, have had some great/ and not so great times with this. If anyone need my opinions on systems directed at our pressure wash market and even other markets, you are welcome to give me a call. I still maintain that flocculation is an awesome method of mobile water treatment for reuse.

Anyway here is the how to video I did on joining to machines,


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=02PkryqmatU
Click to expand...

I've never used a hot water machine so I don't know what you're talking about. What do you mean by pre-heated water and what is the difference between that and what most hot water units do?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 
Josh D, pre heat is the heating of water before it enters the boiler,

A warmer water temp entering the boiler would require less diesel fuel to heat the water to obtain the desired temperature set on the thermostat.

My Kohler engine exhaust measured about 700F with an infrared thermometer. Boiler exhaust was hot too.
 
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