F-9 Calcium and Efflorescence remover

chrishartje

chrishartje

New member
Craig, can you give me detailed instructions on the proper way too address these two different scenario's with f-9 c&e remover?

Suggested mix ratios
Estimated dwell times
Neutralizing
Anything that would help in the restoration!

1st pic fertilizer and calcium staining.
y7agy6yj.jpg



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Guy's I would like too share my first impressions on this product.

I have acid washed lots of swimming pools, so I always have hydrochloric acid on my truck. Anyone who has ever had a good whiff of that stuff quickly realizes how dangerous it is to your lungs. It can fry your lungs in a second. Even when diluted. I have also been Lucky that I have never spilled it on myself. I would hate to find out what that would feel like.

The first thing I noticed about the f-9 calcium and efflorescence remover is the pleasant smell and no harsh fumes like the dangerous alternative.
I am so glad to now have a safe product on the truck.

I also realized how far a gallon will go.
I mixed a batch of 1 part product to 8 parts water. I do a little bit of decorative concrete staining and too prep for the stain I do a lite acid wash. At 1-8 mix I could still see the etching capabilities.

So a gallon will go along way!
Looking forward to doing some jobs with it.....

Seems like a winner so far!


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I very much agree with Chris. The F-9 calcium and efflorescence remover is easy to use for removing hard water stains and more. I also use it when prepping (etching) a surface when coloring and sealing concrete. Chris is correct in his post that a little goes a long way. It all depends on the condition of the surface. My usual dilution rate, when etching concrete as part of the concrete restoration process, is 1 part F-9 to 8 parts water. I neutralize the etched surface with a baking soda and water mix and rinse very well. I still use breathing protection PPE when there is limited ventilation. However, I feel much safer using the F-9 calcium and efflorescence remover versus hydrochloric acid.
 
chrishartje said:
Craig, can you give me detailed instructions on the proper way too address these two different scenario's with f-9 c&e remover?

Suggested mix ratios
Estimated dwell times
Neutralizing
Anything that would help in the restoration!

1st pic fertilizer and calcium staining.
y7agy6yj.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Chris,

First and foremost, whenever you are removing calcium from concrete you will most likely remove some of the concrete cream in the process. You must let your customer know that you will need to do the whole pad and the surface may end up having a "micro-aggregate" appearance. Hence, the process removes calcium, exposes new concrete underneath and gives the concrete better slip resistance as well. The level at which you expose the aggregates is directly proportionate to the strength of F9 Efflo that you use and the strength of the concrete in general. I have done some restorations that etch very little and some that etch a lot. The goal is to remove as much calcium as possible and make everything blend well. The good news is that most commercial properties are not opposed to increasing their slip resistance and giving the concrete a little "micro-etch." Done properly, the concrete can even take on a granite-like appearance.

What I would do above depends on if I were you or if I were me. If I were you I'd start at an 8:1 water to product mix. Spray it on, let dwell 30 seconds to a minute and then brush immediately. I'd reapply a little bit more on the calcium after the first brushing and then brush some more. After a few minutes, neutralize it with a sodium hydroxide cleaner and then pressure wash with your surface cleaner. When applying the product I'd spray it on that whole pad that has calcium, with just a little overspray on the other pads next to it.. approximately 1 foot. When pressure washing, pressure wash not only the pad you sprayed but at least the next 3' of the pads surrounding the area you did.

So it goes like this, if you overspray F9 Efflo 1 foot into the adjoining pads of concrete, pressure wash not only that 1' but make atleast 3'. This will assure that you have pressure washed all of the F9 Efflo off including the over spray. The surface textures will match better.

I would also advise to let them know that they must stop the topical moisture or it will happen again and again. Our sealer will be out soon which I highly recommend for every horizontal acid wash/restoration you do. This will help keep the calcium from coming back too quickly. If they don't remove the planters the calcium will return but it take it about 3x longer to form.
 
chrishartje said:
2nd pic mud stains.
emyquhag.jpg



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On this you could go 8 or 10:1 again. Surface can be dry, doesn't matter. Spray on F9 Efflo, immediately brush with broom and pressure wash it off. Look to see if you are etching the substrate at all when you pressure wash. After the first go, dry it with a blower and check the color and look closely to see how well it handled the product. Either increase your strength or do the procedure again if the stain remains.
 
chrishartje said:
Guy's I would like too share my first impressions on this product.

I have acid washed lots of swimming pools, so I always have hydrochloric acid on my truck. Anyone who has ever had a good whiff of that stuff quickly realizes how dangerous it is to your lungs. It can fry your lungs in a second. Even when diluted. I have also been Lucky that I have never spilled it on myself. I would hate to find out what that would feel like.

The first thing I noticed about the f-9 calcium and efflorescence remover is the pleasant smell and no harsh fumes like the dangerous alternative.
I am so glad to now have a safe product on the truck.

I also realized how far a gallon will go.
I mixed a batch of 1 part product to 8 parts water. I do a little bit of decorative concrete staining and too prep for the stain I do a lite acid wash. At 1-8 mix I could still see the etching capabilities.

So a gallon will go along way!
Looking forward to doing some jobs with it.....

Seems like a winner so far!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thanks, Chris. The guys in the coating biz are loving the product.
 
ShastaPressureClean said:
I very much agree with Chris. The F-9 calcium and efflorescence remover is easy to use for removing hard water stains and more. I also use it when prepping (etching) a surface when coloring and sealing concrete. Chris is correct in his post that a little goes a long way. It all depends on the condition of the surface. My usual dilution rate, when etching concrete as part of the concrete restoration process, is 1 part F-9 to 8 parts water. I neutralize the etched surface with a baking soda and water mix and rinse very well. I still use breathing protection PPE when there is limited ventilation. However, I feel much safer using the F-9 calcium and efflorescence remover versus hydrochloric acid.
Click to expand...

Randy, thanks for being the first one to use this. I really appreciate your feedback over the last several months and I'm glad you are having great success with F9 Efflo!
 
Rapid HotClean said:
I've been using F9 Rust Remover and love it. Have received a gallon of F9 Efflo. See pic for project. Help!
Click to expand...

I'd start at a 5:1. Spray it on and start scrubbing with deck brush after about 30 seconds to a minute. Go light on the Efflo for the first application or two. You are acid washing this so neutralize with sodium hydroxide after your applications of Efflo and then use a surface cleaner to pressure wash. You'll have to do the process several times to get 70-80% of that off. It looks pretty bad but you can make it look better.

Use a stiff deck brush with scrubbing and pressure wash at least 3' or more outside the area you applied the F9 Efflo.
 
How far away from the fountain base should the Efflo be applied? I'd think you'd first apply it to just the stained area, see what you get, then try to feather outward with a weaker solution if necessary?

5 parts water to 1 part chem?

Do you think the Efflo will also remove the rust? Or should that be hit with F9 RR first?
 
Rapid HotClean said:
How far away from the fountain base should the Efflo be applied? I'd think you'd first apply it to just the stained area, see what you get, then try to feather outward with a weaker solution if necessary?

5 parts water to 1 part chem?

Do you think the Efflo will also remove the rust? Or should that be hit with F9 RR first?
Click to expand...

Just do the stained area first. I don't change dilutions much, I just apply less product or more product. PS.. I also almost do everything straight or at a 1:1 for calcium. You just have to control your amount of spray.

It will remove some if not all of the rust too. A 5:1 is 5 parts water.
 
chrishartje said:
Craig, thanks for the response.
That helps me out a lot.
I was getting a little anxious to use this. I did some testing on a few different areas with some good results.

This is a game changing product. I am thrilled to be carrying this on my truck!


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That's great Chris. Let us know what you test it on and your results. Between F9 BARC, F9 Efflo, a neutralizer and EBC there's not much more you need on your truck except house wash chems or truck wash chems.
 
chrishartje said:
Craig, thanks for the response.
That helps me out a lot.
I was getting a little anxious to use this. I did some testing on a few different areas with some good results.

This is a game changing product. I am thrilled to be carrying this on my truck!


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Click to expand...

Craig said:
Just do the stained area first. I don't change dilutions much, I just apply less product or more product. PS.. I also almost do everything straight or at a 1:1 for calcium. You just have to control your amount of spray.

It will remove some if not all of the rust too. A 5:1 is 5 parts water.
Click to expand...

Thanks Craig. Also, everything that Chris said!
 
Craig, I could use some advice on this situation. Stamped concrete and it does have a sealer on it.
She has maybe 75-100 flower pots around a large back patio.
Concrete and sealer are about two years old.
I am worried about the effects the calcium and efflo. Remover would have on the sealer.

I am currently staining the front patio. And will move to the back patio depending on some advice!
Thanks!
e6amu4u7.jpg



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chrishartje said:
Craig, I could use some advice on this situation. Stamped concrete and it does have a sealer on it.
She has maybe 75-100 flower pots around a large back patio.
Concrete and sealer are about two years old.
I am worried about the effects the calcium and efflo. Remover would have on the sealer.

I am currently staining the front patio. And will move to the back patio depending on some advice!
Thanks!
e6amu4u7.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Chris, if the sealer is still good and the calcium is on top of the sealer you have a chance of removing the calcium. The calcium here has formed calcite so it's going to be tough. I'd spray some on at 2:1 and see if the sealer is still in tact. If it is, there should be minimal bubbling.. mostly white "fizzing" (smaller white bubbling). You're going to have to scrub quite a bit. If the sealer has worn off you'll need to advise your customer that you may be able to get 60-80% of the calcium off but the surface will have a different texture (micro aggregate). I would do all of the concrete to keep the surface texture even. We sell these jobs similar to F9 BARC where we do the whole thing, not just the spot.
 
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