hydro-clean
Member
when i read about people using bleach mixed with water, do you run this thru your pump or is there another way and does bleach work on greasy concrete and asphalt, thanks
how bad is bleach going thru your pump
- Thread starter hydro-clean
- Start date
Sopowerclean
New member
I use an X Jet tip to inject bleach at the tip. I have always been afraid to run chemicals through my pump.
Hotwaterwizard
Hotsy Service Tech
Never run Bleach thru the pump! It loves to eat brass. Run it thru a downline injector or even better a chemical sprayer.
Mike Hughes
Former Board Administrator
I never run anything but water thru my pumps. I use either an xjet or a shurflo sprayer (deckhand) to apply cleaners, depending on the surface.
Superior Servic
New member
Gentlemen;
Obviously everybody does everything different.
When i started I purchased dave Ottmar's training video
He advocates running his cleaning solution ( 80%) household bleach through his UPSTREAM INJECTOR ( i.e.--through his pump)
His theory was that the small number of hours you lose in pump performance is saved in time.
Before I actually washed anything for money I started readin this and many other boards and learned how terrible this procedure was! I tried downstreaming and quickly learned that it didn't get enough solution on the surface.
I built a 12v chem injector ( about $125.00) That gave me 100% chems, but was way too slow to make any money.
I even used an older 5hp HD consumer PW plumbed directly to my chem tank that worked very well.--it still hasn't crapped out, but it requires a whole additional hose line.
I have not tried, but I can't believe the x-jet would not create more problems than it solves. I am concerned about overspray from the roof (that I'm standing on) when the chems only travel 3 feet. Shooting the chems 35 feet to the roof/house from the ground HAS TO CREATE SPRAY/MIST that will get on other cars, houses, etc.
Through necessity I have had to upstream my house/roof/concrete cleaning solution. Guess what? Nothing bad happened.
I am running a locally built H/C pw 5.0gpm. 3000psi, belt drive, ts201 or wa202, whatever it's currently called. I bought it used 3 years ago. It's now about 8 years old
I overhauled it when purchased--repacked the pump, including pistons--kit from e=spec was about $150.00
Nothing but oil changes since then. Over 1000 hrs per year
I tested it last week. I am getting 2800psi at the wand and am two inches short of filling a five gallon bucket in one minute ( I guess about 4.8 gpm)
The time I'm saving is tremendous. No second hose or reel.
After the chems go down I'm running hot water to clean/rinse. That seems to clean the pump out pretty well.
I wonder sometimes about the advice given here. I know everybody says not to do this, but is that factual working experience, or various mfg and/experts opinions being repeated so many time they become accepted as fact
I now use the flo-jet strictly for stain application.
No compaints if this doesn't work for you, but it works for me and it saves lots of time.
I am curious, if all the advice to not do this is from practical experience or is everybody just repeating what the previous "expert" said until it becomes a fact?
Dennis
Superior Services Group Inc.
Obviously everybody does everything different.
When i started I purchased dave Ottmar's training video
He advocates running his cleaning solution ( 80%) household bleach through his UPSTREAM INJECTOR ( i.e.--through his pump)
His theory was that the small number of hours you lose in pump performance is saved in time.
Before I actually washed anything for money I started readin this and many other boards and learned how terrible this procedure was! I tried downstreaming and quickly learned that it didn't get enough solution on the surface.
I built a 12v chem injector ( about $125.00) That gave me 100% chems, but was way too slow to make any money.
I even used an older 5hp HD consumer PW plumbed directly to my chem tank that worked very well.--it still hasn't crapped out, but it requires a whole additional hose line.
I have not tried, but I can't believe the x-jet would not create more problems than it solves. I am concerned about overspray from the roof (that I'm standing on) when the chems only travel 3 feet. Shooting the chems 35 feet to the roof/house from the ground HAS TO CREATE SPRAY/MIST that will get on other cars, houses, etc.
Through necessity I have had to upstream my house/roof/concrete cleaning solution. Guess what? Nothing bad happened.
I am running a locally built H/C pw 5.0gpm. 3000psi, belt drive, ts201 or wa202, whatever it's currently called. I bought it used 3 years ago. It's now about 8 years old
I overhauled it when purchased--repacked the pump, including pistons--kit from e=spec was about $150.00
Nothing but oil changes since then. Over 1000 hrs per year
I tested it last week. I am getting 2800psi at the wand and am two inches short of filling a five gallon bucket in one minute ( I guess about 4.8 gpm)
The time I'm saving is tremendous. No second hose or reel.
After the chems go down I'm running hot water to clean/rinse. That seems to clean the pump out pretty well.
I wonder sometimes about the advice given here. I know everybody says not to do this, but is that factual working experience, or various mfg and/experts opinions being repeated so many time they become accepted as fact
I now use the flo-jet strictly for stain application.
No compaints if this doesn't work for you, but it works for me and it saves lots of time.
I am curious, if all the advice to not do this is from practical experience or is everybody just repeating what the previous "expert" said until it becomes a fact?
Dennis
Superior Services Group Inc.
It is a fact that each chemical reacts differently with different materials. It is a fact that a Viton o'ring will last longer than a rubber o'ring when used in acid applications. Same with Clorox.
Every piece of equipment is made differently, with different components - some last a long time with improper use, while others will fail rather quickly. Some people run a car 5000 mi. between oil changes while others swear by 3000 mi. intervals for the same. Which car will last longer? Fact or fiction? Some people don't wear seatbelt because they've never been in an accident. Will they ever be in an accident? Hard to tell. Will they be hurt if they're in an accident? It's a fact that there is a much larger chance of being hurt without a seatbelt than with one.
The information given in most cases are based on facts and given to provide longevity to parts/equipment, reduce work down-time and repair costs. I think it would be foolish for one to give advice differently. Without knowing what parts are used in each machine, it's hard to tell what risks you are running. Almost every machine uses different components (even the same brand and model may have different components).
How you treat your equipment is up to you. If you want to drive without a seatbelt is also up to you. What the consequences will be? You'll be the first to know.
I prefer the low risk methods and will always advise that way.
If I deviate from it I understand the risks involved.
If you prefer the higher risk method, it's up to you, as long as you also understand the POSSIBLE negative impacts.
Best Wishes.
Every piece of equipment is made differently, with different components - some last a long time with improper use, while others will fail rather quickly. Some people run a car 5000 mi. between oil changes while others swear by 3000 mi. intervals for the same. Which car will last longer? Fact or fiction? Some people don't wear seatbelt because they've never been in an accident. Will they ever be in an accident? Hard to tell. Will they be hurt if they're in an accident? It's a fact that there is a much larger chance of being hurt without a seatbelt than with one.
The information given in most cases are based on facts and given to provide longevity to parts/equipment, reduce work down-time and repair costs. I think it would be foolish for one to give advice differently. Without knowing what parts are used in each machine, it's hard to tell what risks you are running. Almost every machine uses different components (even the same brand and model may have different components).
How you treat your equipment is up to you. If you want to drive without a seatbelt is also up to you. What the consequences will be? You'll be the first to know.
I prefer the low risk methods and will always advise that way.
If I deviate from it I understand the risks involved.
If you prefer the higher risk method, it's up to you, as long as you also understand the POSSIBLE negative impacts.
Best Wishes.
DENNIS,
I'am with you on this one, i run caustic truck wash degreaser through my pump TS2021 , about 55 gallons a week with a ph of 13.2, the pump is about 2 years old.
with hi impact of the chemical, i save lots of time!
I also have 2 new Ts2021 pumps on hand if one of my pumps were to give out on me. for $300 plus shipping way rebuild!
Mel
I'am with you on this one, i run caustic truck wash degreaser through my pump TS2021 , about 55 gallons a week with a ph of 13.2, the pump is about 2 years old.
with hi impact of the chemical, i save lots of time!
I also have 2 new Ts2021 pumps on hand if one of my pumps were to give out on me. for $300 plus shipping way rebuild!
Mel
Guess there are as many opinions as thread readers!
I generally agree (usually do) with Paul on this one. I simply have made it a rule to never run chemicals through my pump - period. That said, you are on safer ground upstreaming alkaline based materials through your pump (less chance for corrosion) than acid and bleach.
I also keep a backup "knock off" 2021 pump in my shop.
I generally agree (usually do) with Paul on this one. I simply have made it a rule to never run chemicals through my pump - period. That said, you are on safer ground upstreaming alkaline based materials through your pump (less chance for corrosion) than acid and bleach.
I also keep a backup "knock off" 2021 pump in my shop.