Hudson Float Valve not working...

Ed Thompson said:
Ive had no luck with these valves. I go with the old toilet-fill valve-type with the arm and float ball.
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If I used one it would be a fluid master, chad right I stopped using anything.

We do property's so often my guys gage the flow and rarely have issues with over flow. When we do the y strainer gets turned on we back wash filters for a few and keeps the system running smooth.


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The only problem I have with these is trash clogging up the screen in them and once every few years some small trash gets further and blocks the diaphragm some so it does not stop the flow of water.

I had the diaphragm go out in one this past week, the other two in the tank are working good, just changed out the old one (7,8 or 9 years old now) and put on a new one and things are working great again. I am going to contact the company that makes them to see if they sell just the diaphragm as the plastic parts are not worn out so I can have a couple spares around if I don't have to buy the whole assembly.

I am going to rig up a larger screen to catch more trash before it gets to the valve so it will be easier and faster to clean than having to climp up on the trailer, remove the lid and remove the valve to clean the screen, I am trying to rig up something so you can handle everything from at trailer level working so you can get it done faster but take longer to clog up so you don't clean it as often. I am cleaning the screens in the valve every week or two, lots of trash getting into hoses.
 
Ron, any problem with rust from the y strainer body getting into the tank?

Any problem with the strainer getting so clogged you have to open it up?

Thanks.
 
ruben said:
did you put that long coupling on purpose? you're not letting the tank fill up all the way.
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I have two coupling lengths that I use with my Hudson float valve: a long one that prevents the water from going above 150 gallons and a short one that allows the whole 325 gallon tank to fill. There are some small jobs where I don't want to finish a job with a near full tank. Water is heavy to transport and I try not to waste it unless necessary.
 
Christopher said:
The only problem I have with these is trash clogging up the screen in them and once every few years some small trash gets further and blocks the diaphragm some so it does not stop the flow of water.

I had the diaphragm go out in one this past week, the other two in the tank are working good, just changed out the old one (7,8 or 9 years old now) and put on a new one and things are working great again. I am going to contact the company that makes them to see if they sell just the diaphragm as the plastic parts are not worn out so I can have a couple spares around if I don't have to buy the whole assembly.

I am going to rig up a larger screen to catch more trash before it gets to the valve so it will be easier and faster to clean than having to climp up on the trailer, remove the lid and remove the valve to clean the screen, I am trying to rig up something so you can handle everything from at trailer level working so you can get it done faster but take longer to clog up so you don't clean it as often. I am cleaning the screens in the valve every week or two, lots of trash getting into hoses.
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I pulled the screen out- manufacture said it would not effect the operation of the valve.
 
I also have different lengths of pipe in the tank so the tank will fill and stay at certain levels, depending on what type of work I am doing.

I tried taking the screen out of the valve but too many times some trash would stick in the diaphragm of the valve not letting it close so the tank overflowed until you took the valve out and cleaned it.

No matter how I try to keep trash out of my hose, stuff still gets into the screen in the valve whether it was in the customer's hose, bib or whatever, I still have to clean the screens in the valves every week or two, so my idea for a separate larger screen outside of the valve that is easier to get to and clean faster.
 
HighTide said:
I have two coupling lengths that I use with my Hudson float valve: a long one that prevents the water from going above 150 gallons and a short one that allows the whole 325 gallon tank to fill. There are some small jobs where I don't want to finish a job with a near full tank. Water is heavy to transport and I try not to waste it unless necessary.
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That was the initial point, but I'm getting a longer one. I find myself still having to dump water when I leave a job. I really only need about 40-50 gallons for buffering.
 
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