OK class.. pay attention..
On a tank fed pump, here's the laundry list of cause and effect..
Tank fitting at the pump..
needs to not be sucking air from low water level,
needs to be clear of blockage, no rusty "flow restrictors" ..aka small constrictive thorofares.
Filter..
needs to be checked inside and out monthly, or weekly. (don't make me tell you why.)
needs to be plumbed with ball valve, for easy cleaning, or nobody will check it.
Feed lines to pump..
needs to be fed with big feed lines.. 3/4" for every 3gpm.. that's 2 feed lines for 6gpm !
.. dual feed lines means never having to say "seal problems are expensive".
The pump needs to be plumbed with a garden-hose fitting somewhere,
.. to feed the p ump with pressure or troubleshooting.
Pump Check valves,,
needs to be checked for scale build-up, where an acid soak does some good. (..a specific acid.)
The valves needs to be checked for cage-wear.. that's where the poppet lays against the cage on the inlet valves.
.. The cage can be turned so the wear is not where the poppets lay.
The o-ring under the valve and the surface in the head they sit on, is important too..
The o-ring should be Viton (for strength) and not flattened or worn.
.. If they are cut, look for cracks in the head surface. If they are "shaved".. chech your water supply.
Seals can suck air from being worn before they actually start leaking out..
.. Pressure feed to check for leaks once each month !
Thermal relief valves.. should NOT EVER be used on tank-fed systems..
.. .. bypass to the water tank and you don't need it !
The thermal relief will suck air, causing valve and head surface damage,
.. it causes seal damage, unloader damage, shaft-chatter on direct drive systems, OMG ! get rid of 'em!
OK. If you want more,
buy something from us, and we are free troubleshooter-coaching,
or come to our next PressureWasher Troubleshooting and BulletProofing class.
How's Las Vegas in May sound !??
:{)