Is this correct- something doesnt seem right

dantheman

New member
hey yall thanks to all the great advice i got on this board i now have my tank set up. i have a 5.6 gpm 2500 connected to a 125 gal. why does it jump and take a sec to get full flow once i let off the trigger? ive attached a video and pic. also why does it now leak at the water hose connection but it doesnt with a reg house garden hose connection. please help me answer these questions guys i have work coming up.

thanks!
dan

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Fix leak, teflon or pipe dope. I couldn't see but do you have filter? Poly braid hose is not MY first choice for feed hose-do you notice if its flattening out anywhere under load? That's what I experienced with p braid. Also run your bypass hose back to the tank. Leaky water equals air in system equals cavitation.
 
Easy start unloader. They're really made for pressure fed systems. Without a spring to reseat the ball, it has to "float" up to the bypass valve seat.

I have a feeling that if you run your bypass redirected to the tank, that will stop.
 
Did you use a garden hose threaded fitting? they are different than regular hose barb threads. Definitely plumb the bypass back to the tank. And the feed hose is too long. Use the hose barb with garden hose thread, but when you re-plumb the bypass you will have to take the filter assembly thing off and use a regular half inch threaded barb, by whatever size hose you are going to use. I have two 3/4" hoses dual feeding my machine(same one as yours) If that is the exact same machine I have , mine has a trapped unloader. That one does look like a flow unloader or an easy start valve. That would account for the gradual pressure buildup. You have to find out because if thats the case there is nothing wrong with it. If it is a trapped unloader then there is a problem somewhere.

One more thing, the concrete where you are testing your machine, needs to be cleaned!
 

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Fix leak, teflon or pipe dope. I couldn't see but do you have filter? Poly braid hose is not MY first choice for feed hose-do you notice if its flattening out anywhere under load? That's what I experienced with p braid. Also run your bypass hose back to the tank. Leaky water equals air in system equals cavitation.

the thread does have teflon tape on it, but no i dont have a filter. Not flattening out anywhere. You say air in system = cavitation could u explain more? i have 2 holes (float valve and just 1 in hole) at the top of tank could that be the problem?

I have a feeling that if you run your bypass redirected to the tank, that will stop
how do i do that? run a poly hose into a hole in the tank? does it need another bulkhead? which side of the unloader do i unload it to?

That one does look like a flow unloader or an easy start valve. That would account for the gradual pressure buildup. You have to find out because if thats the case there is nothing wrong with it. If it is a trapped unloader then there is a problem somewhere.

are u saying that if its an easy start it will always have pressure buildup after i have released the trigger? is that bad for the pump?

thanks for the help guys!
 
Ralph prolly called it on the correct thread. When you have a leak on your feed hose (not under pressure from house) that equates to the machine pulling in air under flow. At least on my pumps they do. Yes from unloader to top of tank, drill hole thread hose barb and connect poly line. Draw rate out of tank could be due to the tip you use. Easy start is foreign to me, sorry cant help on that one. Run bypass line mostt important part
 
the thread does have teflon tape on it, but no i dont have a filter. Not flattening out anywhere. You say air in system = cavitation could u explain more? i have 2 holes (float valve and just 1 in hole) at the top of tank could that be the problem?

That clear tube at your inlet is a filter. You have to take that off, to plumb the bypass. The tanks manhole allows air in, thats not a problem. I think Nicholas was talking about air entering the system through the leaky inlet. That's a no-no. That will destroy your pump.



how do i do that? run a poly hose into a hole in the tank? does it need another bulkhead? which side of the unloader do i unload it to?

You have to take that clear filter off. It is going to be a bitch because they used loctite on everything. Then you have to slice the hose and take it off the existing barb, again the barb has loctite on it and it gets ruined if you try to take it off. Attach a hose long enough to reach your tank. Buy a half inch bulkhead, install it(I put mine on top. I have seen them on the side) and then buy a 1/2"x3/8" barb fitting, and a 6 foot section of 3/8" hose. The hose goes from the existing barb that had the little hose on it, to the half inch bulkhead on tank. The other end will be gone because you took off the clear filter that had the other end.



are u saying that if its an easy start it will always have pressure buildup after i have released the trigger? is that bad for the pump?

If it is an easy start or flow unloader it will not have the kick of a trapped unloader and will gradually build pressure. It won't effect pump, it is the unloader doing the work. You should ask Bill or whoever you got it from which unloader is on your machine.

t
hanks for the help guys!
Hope that helps. I will snap a pic of mine tomorrow and post it. A pic says a million.
 

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hey Ralph, thanks for the help! Im going to plumb the bypass tomorrow. so the clear filter should be on the hose inlet side of the unloader? i attached some pics of my machine lie u say a pic says a thousand words. based off that can u tell me if mine is easy flow or what.

also attached pic of the water inlet attachment. can anyone tell me if thats garden hose threase or not

thanks again guys!CAM00703.jpgCAM00700.jpg
 
Really can't tell about the unloader. Can't see other side of pump where an easy start valve would be installed. It looks exactly like mine, which is definitely a trapped unloader because I have hooked two machines together and it doesn't work with a flow unloader or machine with easystart valve. And no, that thread is a regular mpt. Garden hose threads are wider apart. Just look at the pic I posted , or at the end of the garden hose you were using, and compare. Oh and there is no inlet on the unloader,technically the inlet would be where the unloader is attached to pump. You have to take that clear thing off, because if you are plumbing the unloader to the water tank that thing becomes useless. You have to install a filter between the tank feed and the inlet(bottom) fitting on the pump. Once you get rid of that clear thing, you have to buy a 1/2" mpt(thread) X whatever sized barb you plan on using, I have 3/4" ,because I am using 3/4 hose feeding my pump.

That little black hose is your bypass now, it circulates back through your pump when you release the trigger gun. After a while it heats up and destroys your selas. That's why they tell you to press the trigger within two minutes. Bypassing to the tank makes it so the water doesn't recirculate and heat up. Here is plumbing, you can see the Y filter I have between tank and pump. Also you see that he clear thing is GONE. I have two hose feeding my pump, one on each side. Also here is a pic of a garden hose adapter fitting, study the two threads. The top is the garden hose threads and the bottom is what you have now, not the same. It won't matter once you take that clear thing off, because you will be using different threads. The threads on the pump (once you take the clear thing off) are not garden hose threads , you will need a 1/2 inch threaded fitting for that, with a barb the size of the hose you are using.
 

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Really can't tell about the unloader. Can't see other side of pump where an easy start valve would be installed. It looks exactly like mine, which is definitely a trapped unloader because I have hooked two machines together and it doesn't work with a flow unloader or machine with easystart valve. And no, that thread is a regular mpt. Garden hose threads are wider apart. Just look at the pic I posted , or at the end of the garden hose you were using, and compare. Oh and there is no inlet on the unloader,technically the inlet would be where the unloader is attached to pump. You have to take that clear thing off, because if you are plumbing the unloader to the water tank that thing becomes useless. You have to install a filter between the tank feed and the inlet(bottom) fitting on the pump. Once you get rid of that clear thing, you have to buy a 1/2" mpt(thread) X whatever sized barb you plan on using, I have 3/4" ,because I am using 3/4 hose feeding my pump.

That little black hose is your bypass now, it circulates back through your pump when you release the trigger gun. After a while it heats up and destroys your selas. That's why they tell you to press the trigger within two minutes. Bypassing to the tank makes it so the water doesn't recirculate and heat up. Here is plumbing, you can see the Y filter I have between tank and pump. Also you see that he clear thing is GONE. I have two hose feeding my pump, one on each side. Also here is a pic of a garden hose adapter fitting, study the two threads. The top is the garden hose threads and the bottom is what you have now, not the same. It won't matter once you take that clear thing off, because you will be using different threads. The threads on the pump (once you take the clear thing off) are not garden hose threads , you will need a 1/2 inch threaded fitting for that, with a barb the size of the hose you are using.

Hey Ralph may I ask why you have a hose coming out of your filter?
 
Hey Ralph may I ask why you have a hose coming out of your filter?

Water supply, it has a ball valve at the end of that hose. I use it to wash my hands, fill fiver when mixing housewash mix, and sometimes I forget to shut off the water supply and just open it up while I am packing up. It is too small for a dump valve, it takes about 15-20 minutes to empty my 100 gallon buffer tank.
 
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