Plumbing 2 pressure washers to water tank?

CL Scott said:
Being direct drive is the main reason it was suggested I have a dedicated bulkhead for the supply. When I build my set up, I spoke with a few vets in the business (3-10 years each) that had videos (some that have been taken down {but not before I could rip them}) on building a pw trailer. I specifially remember one mentioning a tsf2021 gp 8 gpm having 2 bulkheads to feed each side. I don't really have enough personal experience outside of my 3 months using this new unit, but from research and advice - like this forum, I would recommend separate bulkheads for each supply - especially for a lower flow direct drive. As short a distance and with as few turns as possible.

Originally, I had a 5.5gpm pump to feed my pw, but several people (in the biz) advised me against using a pump to feed a pump, saying it would cause cavitation - so I returned it. Haven't had any issues. (3 months of course)
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Greg Rentschler said:
I've had problems in the past with direct drives pulling from a tank at all. If that be the case you would have to use a pump (shurflo or similar) to feed the pumps.
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I was using my 5 gpm flojet to push to my older machine to make sure it would take it water. Worked for years, but I didnt want to have to buy another one so I figured I would try the ol gravity fed option.
 
Scott Stone said:
Just my take.
I would have no problem running two 1" lines off a 2" line. If I were to put a T in the line, I would make sure it was some distance from any other drastic turn, to reduce line turbulence. I also run 1" lines to my machines, and try and keep them as short as possible. In fact, I have two identical machines mounted back to back on a trailer. The feed lines are both tee'd off a feed line that is running down the center of the trailer, beneath and between the two machines. Off of the 2" line, I have a 1" line with non collapsing hose going to the machines.
On my trucks, I have them all set up the same way, with a 1" line running from the tank to the machines. After getting the original junk pumps taken off many of the power washers, we have had precisely one machine that we have had to repack in the last year and a half. Most of the machines have 800 or more hours on them. We have had to replace 3 unloaders. I will take that, incidentally, this is off a fleet of 19 trucks. I used to have 20, but no one would drive the old Chevy so I sold it.
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Scott, my water tank is a 275g IBC tote, I have 3 pallets under it which raised me up 6 inches to increase the gravity flow.

I am thinking of a putting in a 2" 45 from the 2" bulkhead and drop it about 3-4 more inches till it touches the floor and put on the 2" T. then 2 more 45's, ball valve, and water filters, then and run the 2" pipe about 4 or 5 feet. Then I will reduce to 1" and hook up about 2-3 feet of 1" poly braid hose.

Sound good? just trying to get as much input before I take on this adventure lol
 
Dan if I were you I would keep it as simple as possible.You really don't need all the blocks etc raising it up.However I would just replicate what you have on original plumbing.Just make 2 of them you might get away with it coming out of one but why take the chance and if you ever get bigger machines you definatly don't want to take the chance.Check the price on just that pump alone if you feel like you have that money to burn on a new pump if you burn it up I say go for it.
 
A lot of what you are planning is not needed. The pallets makes the tank more top-heavy which might be a little dangerous as you are lifting it up almost 1' higher but that is just my opinion.

You can run 1" lines to the pump from the "T" at the tank if you want to, I have done it this way with the ball valve and filter between the two and it works great. You can run 2" pipe or line to the pump and then the shorter 1" lines if you want to, it is up to you.

I would not run smaller diameter hose than 1", I tried some of the 3/4" clear polybraid and I could see the hose starting to collapse when running the 8gpm machinne, same thing with the 1" clear polybraid hose. I switched to a heavier hose that is harder to collapse and no problems since.

You might think about another "T" somewhere so you can run one of those lines to the side/back of the trailer to wash hands, fill buckets with water or to empty the water tank if needed.

For the fill line, I would use the Hudson valve, they work great, you can put it inside the tank so you don't have to worry about it over-flowing.
 
Johnson said:
No I don't lol
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Care to share how you do it? Any pics? I'm always on the lookout for better ways to do things - Ron and others swear by the Y-strainer type filter. I'm interested in maybe trying them - just never gone and done it. Probably easier to maintain and less issues than with a bowl filter.

Thanks!
 
I use the large bowl filters myself and they do catch a lot of trash that gets into the system.

I like the idea of the y strainer but with the amount of trash that the bowl filter catches, I would think I would be cleaning out the y strainer a lot. I think they make larger y strainers out there, just have not looked for them.

I think that the way Ron has them on his trailers, you just open a ball valve and it flushes the trash out.
 
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