Power washer advice

Tooth

Tooth

New member
Hello everybody! First I'm not a professional power washer nor do I want to be. I need some advice and pointers on this Aladdin hot water power washing unit that I acquired recently The model number is 4015 it was originally powered by a Honda engine but that was junk when I got it. I bought a HF 212 Predator engine to repower it I haven't even tried it yet to see if it works yet. The burner is belt driven as is the pump, did have to replace the squirrel cage in the burner. This unit has a water tank with a float valve that turns the water on / off as needed the valve is missing the float. My 1st question is do I need this tank setup? or can I eliminate it and hook the water hose directly where the water exits the tank. There is a flow /pressure switch in a tee with a nipple that I believe had a flex hose that went to the soap valve, from there to the pump. I'm not getting into the power washing business just for use around the farm. Why do I have to push so hard on my keyboard to get it to type a message on this forum? Thank You Tooth.
 
Tooth said:
Hello everybody! First I'm not a professional power washer nor do I want to be. I need some advice and pointers on this Aladdin hot water power washing unit that I acquired recently The model number is 4015 it was originally powered by a Honda engine but that was junk when I got it. I bought a HF 212 Predator engine to repower it I haven't even tried it yet to see if it works yet. The burner is belt driven as is the pump, did have to replace the squirrel cage in the burner. This unit has a water tank with a float valve that turns the water on / off as needed the valve is missing the float. My 1st question is do I need this tank setup? or can I eliminate it and hook the water hose directly where the water exits the tank. There is a flow /pressure switch in a tee with a nipple that I believe had a flex hose that went to the soap valve, from there to the pump. I'm not getting into the power washing business just for use around the farm. Why do I have to push so hard on my keyboard to get it to type a message on this forum? Thank You Tooth.
Click to expand...

I'm actually having the same problem on here with my keyboard as well.
 
I'm thinking this one is like one I had in the shop some months ago, but I can't find any information on a model 4015. Can you take some pictures of it and post them or email them to me...russ@pressurewasherky.us...and I'll see what I can do to help.
 
I e-mailed You some pictures tried to post them with no luck.
 

Attachments

  • 016.jpg
    016.jpg
    348.5 KB · Views: 56
  • 018.jpg
    018.jpg
    429.7 KB · Views: 43
Well how do you do! there they are! the wheels are not stock the tank is on the lower left side of photo and there is a pressure/vacuum switch that I don't understand how it would work because the tank doesn't build pressure and the pump sucks the water from tank that I would think creates a vacuum though I don't think it is very much and I think it controls the burner on-off when trigger on wand is depressed ? also looking for a reasonable priced float type water valve.
 
The engine you purchased doesn't have a charging system on it...the burner won't work.

The switch you see is a vacuum switch. The pump must "suck" the water from the tank in order to fire the burner. A flow switch could be installed, but without a constant 12 volt source, the burner won't work.
 
I appreciate the information on the switch would it be safer to install a flow control switch? The engine didn't have a charging system when I got it I did some research and found out that the Predator engine is a Honda knock off engine and a lot of the parts interchange with each other, this unit had a Honda gx160 that had a rod knock. I took stator and flywheel off Honda and installed it on the Predator engine with voltage regulator/rectifier from Honda as well, she charges now. Looking for float valve or just the float for the valve any ideas?
 
Here is some pictures of tank and float valve I actually think I only need the float itself but I'm open to replacement of valve and maybe vacuum switch to a flow control switch depending on price.
 

Attachments

  • 002.jpg
    002.jpg
    322.2 KB · Views: 29
  • 003.jpg
    003.jpg
    302.5 KB · Views: 22
  • 004.jpg
    004.jpg
    393.8 KB · Views: 23
  • 006.jpg
    006.jpg
    463.6 KB · Views: 28
Sounds good Russ, Do I just call Your shop and exchange cc information and shipping address? Call tomorrow okay. Thanks Chris
 
considering age, and relative cost..
test the Vac-On Switch for leaks with gardenHose pressure..
..your plan could change.

Also.. AsYouCan.. get those rusty fittings off the inlet of the pump..
They could immediately become a problem.
.. just sayin'.
 
a valuable lesson you don't Need To learn the Hard Way..
When "reviving a dinosaur".. CLEAN it !
.. clean fuel tanks & lines.
.. clean pump feed lines & remove anything rusty on inlet side,
.. Check back-pressure of heaterCoil.

Plan your success, or live with a leach in yer wallet.
 
If you can switch to the FlowSwitch-ControlRelay combination,
you get to run the unloader bypass back to the tank, and all seals last longer.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top