Christopher
Moderator
Glad you finally got it straightened out, finally.
Pump Oil
- Thread starter Glen Hogan
- Start date
outdoorprowash
Member
Thanks, Tom, that is where Chris got confused I think. There was a thin o-ring right there too where they come together. I sure like the gearbox setup for what I do. :smile-square:
Christopher
Moderator
Right, like you knew or had a clue. What a joke!
No - no - no -
90W-low foaming in Gear Box
30W Non-Detergent in Generals with Aluminum Connecting Rods
50W Non-Detergent in Generals with Bronze Connecting Rods.
Next Technical School is March 21,22. Pump Rebuilding, Unloaders, Injectors, Bruners.
Instructors: Chuck Welch formerly of General Pump - now EnviroSpec new Ex. VP & techincal director and John Allison
Contact Joseph Walker at 912-487-1778 / only a few seats left.
90W-low foaming in Gear Box
30W Non-Detergent in Generals with Aluminum Connecting Rods
50W Non-Detergent in Generals with Bronze Connecting Rods.
Next Technical School is March 21,22. Pump Rebuilding, Unloaders, Injectors, Bruners.
Instructors: Chuck Welch formerly of General Pump - now EnviroSpec new Ex. VP & techincal director and John Allison
Contact Joseph Walker at 912-487-1778 / only a few seats left.
Sirocco Jerry
Active member
Buying cheap is a "perpetuating Mistake"
LOL !!!
slap those hands !! LOL
Homey's right..
guessing is NOT OK.
You guys make me laugh..
you spend special-effort money on special-effort high-performance machinery,
and you ask guessers how cheap cheap can be !?
ASK a QUALIFIED tech, or become one, by attending an educational seminar
.. like mine, Russ', Paul's, ACR's or Homer's..
Can you say.. "synthetic oil is your friend" ??
If you spend $100. instead of $40. this year on oil,
but your system gets the job done more reliably,
..isn't that called insurance ??
If better oil might possibly extend the life of your system by at LEAST a few months..
what value would you put on the use of your system for 30 days.. more than the $60. difference ??
Buying cheap is a "perpetuating Mistake"
Class dismissed !
LOL !!!
slap those hands !! LOL
Homey's right..
guessing is NOT OK.
You guys make me laugh..
you spend special-effort money on special-effort high-performance machinery,
and you ask guessers how cheap cheap can be !?
ASK a QUALIFIED tech, or become one, by attending an educational seminar
.. like mine, Russ', Paul's, ACR's or Homer's..
Can you say.. "synthetic oil is your friend" ??
If you spend $100. instead of $40. this year on oil,
but your system gets the job done more reliably,
..isn't that called insurance ??
If better oil might possibly extend the life of your system by at LEAST a few months..
what value would you put on the use of your system for 30 days.. more than the $60. difference ??
Buying cheap is a "perpetuating Mistake"
Class dismissed !
Christopher
Moderator
Great of you guys to set things straight, I am sure stories will change again. hahahahaha
I normally change out the pump oil around 100 to 300 hours and engine oil about 50 to 100 hours. I think the engine oil is a little long but with the briggs leaking it out (leaky valve covers), it is almost like getting a partial oil change. hahahahaha
I need to change the engine oil a little more often I am sure.
With this often changing out the pump and engine oil, I don't think that the synthetic oil would really help that much, maybe if I were to leave the oil in longer then I might switch to the synthetic. I am using Castrol 30wt in the engines and 30wt non detergent in the general pumps and landa pumps and Hotsy pump oil in the Hotsy rig.
I normally change out the pump oil around 100 to 300 hours and engine oil about 50 to 100 hours. I think the engine oil is a little long but with the briggs leaking it out (leaky valve covers), it is almost like getting a partial oil change. hahahahaha
I need to change the engine oil a little more often I am sure.
With this often changing out the pump and engine oil, I don't think that the synthetic oil would really help that much, maybe if I were to leave the oil in longer then I might switch to the synthetic. I am using Castrol 30wt in the engines and 30wt non detergent in the general pumps and landa pumps and Hotsy pump oil in the Hotsy rig.
Sirocco Jerry
Active member
the MOST important thing about oil..
whatEVER oil you use..
Don't ever let it get low. ..ever.
"Low" is at the middle of the sight-glass.
"Full" is 3/4 up the sight-glass.
..that's right.. the pumps come with the MINimum level in them.
You can ALLways count on a "bean-counter" to deliver the MINimum in reliabilty or responsibility.
.. After all.. does ANY car dealer offer a "race-ready" car ??
..NO.. you have to pull it into a garage, bring out the right "tools", and begin adjustments.
Come to my BulletProofing class, and SAVE time and money
SOME of you are really good at making money,
most of you are good at wasting it.
No offense intended, I'm just sayin'
..it's hard to "know" everything.. ..and to be "great at it".
whatEVER oil you use..
Don't ever let it get low. ..ever.
"Low" is at the middle of the sight-glass.
"Full" is 3/4 up the sight-glass.
..that's right.. the pumps come with the MINimum level in them.
You can ALLways count on a "bean-counter" to deliver the MINimum in reliabilty or responsibility.
.. After all.. does ANY car dealer offer a "race-ready" car ??
..NO.. you have to pull it into a garage, bring out the right "tools", and begin adjustments.
Come to my BulletProofing class, and SAVE time and money
SOME of you are really good at making money,
most of you are good at wasting it.
No offense intended, I'm just sayin'
..it's hard to "know" everything.. ..and to be "great at it".
Christopher
Moderator
You always have such a way with words Jerry.
I would like to attend your bullet-proofing class but I am not going to any events soon, hopefully later on in the year.
Jerry, do you have any bullet-proofing ideas for box trucks?
I am thinking extra large transmission fluid cooler to replace the small one that is with the radiator. Not sure what else to do, maybe helper springs or air bags.
Any ideas?
I would like to attend your bullet-proofing class but I am not going to any events soon, hopefully later on in the year.
Jerry, do you have any bullet-proofing ideas for box trucks?
I am thinking extra large transmission fluid cooler to replace the small one that is with the radiator. Not sure what else to do, maybe helper springs or air bags.
Any ideas?
Sirocco Jerry
Active member
Helper springs I have always done on my trucks..
they handle better for guys like me that carry lots of tools ...and drive "agressively".
(I miss the Dodge SuperBee I drove in high school.)
Aaaanywaaay..
spray the entire undercarriage with "Rust Converter" from Gemplers.
.. spray your trailer, and anything else you want to NOT rust awy from your
.. "waterborne" business.
..another extra-points word ? :{p
they handle better for guys like me that carry lots of tools ...and drive "agressively".
(I miss the Dodge SuperBee I drove in high school.)
Aaaanywaaay..
spray the entire undercarriage with "Rust Converter" from Gemplers.
.. spray your trailer, and anything else you want to NOT rust awy from your
.. "waterborne" business.
..another extra-points word ? :{p
Last edited:
outdoorprowash
Member
Thanks John, that is with the documentation I found. What is non foaming 90W? I found 80W90 and also found some Marine 80W90. I bought the marine, but haven't used it yet.
outdoorprowash
Member
You were that way once, old wise one.
Christopher
Moderator
Thanks Jerry. We don't have a Gemplers here but I think I can find it online.
Many of the box trucks I have found have some surface rust on the frame, underbody, springs, etc...... Do you just spray this on over the rust that is there? If so, that is a cool thing to know about.
Thanks.
Sirocco Jerry
Active member
Gear oil is generally low-foaming
"marine" anything is the expensive version, 'lest yer talkin moisture-proof switches :{)
Sirocco Jerry
Active member
..about theRustConverter..
it is a cinch to use.
I bought a Honda ATC when the 110's were new. (Yes, I'm old.)
we used to "puddle-skip" across the San Diego river, when thesand-pits were "open" to riding.
I wanted to "water-proof the sheet-metal frame, so it wouldn't rust..
I mixed Rust Converter 1:1 with water, in a pump-up-sprayer, and lightly coatedall parts, including hardware
Then I sealed the "dust-proof" chain-guardwith silicone-seal, for water-proofing.
That bike is in my yard with a rusted fuel-tank, but rusted from storing the tankempty..
Rusted from the INside out.. nothing else has more than spotty rust on it.
It might be the ONLY ATC110 frame on the planet with an original frame..
Should I take it to that pawn-shop in Vegas ? LOL
Yeah.. just mix the stuff 1 to 1 with water, and spray it on.
..and because the solution likes to "separate" when it gets chilled(at all),
.. add a little water to the bottle, and shake it up real good for longer-termstorage.
Just don't pollute it with ANYthing.. the chemical reaction with rust can foulthe whole container.
It completely changes iron oxide to iron phosphate..
a hard, waterproof paintable coating that is so easy to use, I usually just putit in a spray bottle,
and clean up with very little water.
Tell 'em Sirocco Jerry sent you.
seriously.
'nuf on that.. I didn't mean to hijack the thread.. but y'all need to know.
814jeffw
Active member
So, I just bought some Lucas 80-90W regular gear oil. I am planning on using it in the GEARBOX of my washer,...I didn't think of the low foaming when I bought it and it doesn't mention "Low Foaming" on the packaging. Is it gonna be suitable, or is it gonna spew everywhere due to foam?
Jeff
Jerry, going build a new chem rig in Florida. 16 ft tandem. You recommended how to prepare the metal to avoid sh daily corrosion at the Orlando show. Can you give me the details again? Thanks jim 561 248-1053.
Jim Twist Oliver Twist Pressure Cleaning West Palm Beach Florida 561 248-1053
Jim Twist Oliver Twist Pressure Cleaning West Palm Beach Florida 561 248-1053