Return line to tank question

Tony Shelton

Tony Shelton

BS Detector, Esquire
I'm mounting a PW on my lift. I have limited space to work with so I'm not going to be able to have a feed tank. The plan is to hook this one up to a water source each time and not use a tank at all if I can help it.

The question is, how much coiled return hose do I need to keep the temps down on water returning to the pump from the unloader if I plan on letting the unit run for as much as 15-20 minutes with the gun closed?

I am unfamiliar with the temperature rise as the water goes through the pump. Am I going to be forced to use a radiator with an electric fan or can I use maybe 20-30 feet of coiled hose and be ok?

Any ideas?
 
dont they make remote engine starters? I think Hal has one on his unit, if not him I know someone here does. but a thousand feet would need a larger antenna, and can you hear it?

dang you got a hundred foot lift?
 
junker1 said:
dont they make remote engine starters? I think Hal has one on his unit, if not him I know someone here does. but a thousand feet would need a larger antenna, and can you hear it?

dang you got a hundred foot lift?
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Lol, the lift is only 61ft, but there will be times when we will unhitch the lift, leave guys working on the roof while somebody leaves in the truck to get gas or lunch. Some days are mixed with some really tall buildings and some short ones.

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What kind of machines are you using Tony
 
Is it just water going through the bypass? If so, get some soft copper tubing that fits the inside of your bypass line. Coil it up the approximate diameter of the recoil starter. Mount it to the recoil starter with zip ties, using 1/4" piece of hard foam rubber between the tubing and starter to prevent chafing. Leave 1/2" between the coils so the engine can breathe. The air passing over the tubing before it goes across the engine should keep it plenty cool. You could use compression or flare fittings on the ends to attach hose barbs if you wanted. If you clamp the hose to the smooth tubing, use 2 clamps.
 
junker1 said:
ya ya ya, you got two of em, hals got two of em and i still live in the stone ages. lol
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They arent reliable enough. Vibrations kill them eventually. I made a video on my channel a few years back on how to wire them, but now I never used them. They only cost $90.

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Russ Johnson said:
Is it just water going through the bypass? If so, get some soft copper tubing that fits the inside of your bypass line. Coil it up the approximate diameter of the recoil starter. Mount it to the recoil starter with zip ties, using 1/4" piece of hard foam rubber between the tubing and starter to prevent chafing. Leave 1/2" between the coils so the engine can breathe. The air passing over the tubing before it goes across the engine should keep it plenty cool. You could use compression or flare fittings on the ends to attach hose barbs if you wanted. If you clamp the hose to the smooth tubing, use 2 clamps.
Click to expand...

Thanks Russ, I will try that!

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Mine new remote will switch at 1200 feet.I only need it to switch at max 135 feet.Thats why there not lasting they are cheap.The higher end ones are on gigahertz what ever that is.
 
Thanks Hal. I used to thing that would be beneficial to us, but it never seemed to work out. Here is the list of problems:

1) Unreliability - You probably hit the nail on the head about "cheap" but at the time when I first looked at this there were few options.
2) No positive feedback on the remote. We are well out of hearing distance of the unit. The only way we could check and to see if the unit was turned off or on was to pull the trigger. Sometimes the guy with the remote might be 500 ft from the trigger and has just been called or radioed to shut it off. There was nothing on the remote to give us feedback as to whether it shut off or not, you just had to push the button and hope.
3) We work great distances from the skids. This is just one example of the kinds of distances we are talking about. In this one we had to park on the top floor of the parking garage near the top of the picture, then run the hose across the top of one building, down two floors across a courtyard, then though a vent on the second floor of the largest building, snake around passages and finally landing at the far end around 800 ft from our parking spot with 20 or 30 walls between us and the truck. If your remote can reach through all that, I might give it another try.
4) It was one more thing to get lost and keep up with. We only had two remotes for each unit and, of course some of them are missing now. Left at a jobsite, left on the back of the truck, etc.

I did the math and figured it was just about as cheap to keep the unit running as to have to deal with all the stuff above.

But I know technology changes all the time. I might be interested again in the future.

distancerun.jpg
 
I have portables with Float Tank on board..
3gl tank does the 20 minutes in bypass just fine,
..and only adds about 30lbs to the aluminum cart frame
 
man thats some distance your hoses have to travel. so ya i would say the remote is out of the question.

Russ seems to have that one fixed for ya.good luck.

do you have a link to the video you made about installing a remote starter? I may want to do that.
 
Tony Shelton said:
Thanks Hal. I used to thing that would be beneficial to us, but it never seemed to work out. Here is the list of problems:

1) Unreliability - You probably hit the nail on the head about "cheap" but at the time when I first looked at this there were few options.
2) No positive feedback on the remote. We are well out of hearing distance of the unit. The only way we could check and to see if the unit was turned off or on was to pull the trigger. Sometimes the guy with the remote might be 500 ft from the trigger and has just been called or radioed to shut it off. There was nothing on the remote to give us feedback as to whether it shut off or not, you just had to push the button and hope.
3) We work great distances from the skids. This is just one example of the kinds of distances we are talking about. In this one we had to park on the top floor of the parking garage near the top of the picture, then run the hose across the top of one building, down two floors across a courtyard, then though a vent on the second floor of the largest building, snake around passages and finally landing at the far end around 800 ft from our parking spot with 20 or 30 walls between us and the truck. If your remote can reach through all that, I might give it another try.
4) It was one more thing to get lost and keep up with. We only had two remotes for each unit and, of course some of them are missing now. Left at a jobsite, left on the back of the truck, etc.

I did the math and figured it was just about as cheap to keep the unit running as to have to deal with all the stuff above.

But I know technology changes all the time. I might be interested again in the future.

distancerun.jpg
Click to expand...


That is a huge roof!

The idea of a portable sounds like a good idea, even with 200' of hose if needed, if only they had water up on the roof, maybe it would work?
 
You could coil up the hose and run it though a bucket of water to cool it as well. I owull say that 20 min is a long time in bypass, that water will get hot.

As an example I ran a 8 gpm machine in a 200 gallon tank for 3-4 hours just circulating the water. When I went to check the machine the water was so hot it was steaming and burned my hand. Now granted that was under load but it was still a lot of friction to create that heat in 200 gallons of water. When you do the math thas is only circulationg 25 times an hour and still got that hot.
 
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