I agree Chris. I will never forget you taking 20 minutes to speak to me a couple years ago as I was having problems with my 12 volt pump setup while cleaning a 50,000 s.f. metal roof on a school. When I grow a little more and build a separate flatbed or trailer for roof cleaning, I will seriously consider installing an air pump setup.
I remember David!
A big air pump system with a 1 inch pump, and an air compressor from 18 to 28 CFM is truly an awesome roof cleaning setup.
Easily capable of 49 GPM at 100 plus PSI, when you need it, or also capable of a 1/4 GPM mist nozzle, when you don't.
No bypass hoses back to the tank (another source of trouble) are required, or pressure regulators to fail.
Air Pumps are the ultimate in simplicity and reliability, and specially made to pump difficult liquids like sodium hypochlorite, acids, and caustics, all day long.
LOL, I was once on a roof, back when I was using an Udor Gas Powered Pump, and the pumps bypass hose came off the top of the tank.
Before we could get to it, it was like a snake, shooting a pressurized stream of chlorine all over cars, grass, and people!
Here is one of our old, gas powered roof cleaning pump equipped trucks.
If you look closely at the top of the tank, you will see the bypass hose.
You will also see a smaller dedicated rinse water only tank, right behind the main tank!
OMFG, this sort of shoots holes in those who claim that "Apple had problems with the Udor Roof Cleaning pumps, because he never rinsed them out" LOL
The Hell I never rinsed them out. I did everything humanely possible to try and make them last, short of laying hands on them.
With my dedicated fresh water only rinse tank set up, all I had to do was flip a valve, to rinse the pumps out, after every job.
Oh, it gets even "better" too!
Be sure and carry some extra pressure regulators, because they will soon fail as well, even IF you get the ones made out of Stainless Steel!
The Stainless Springs inside them will soon Crack, and then guess what ?
Your pump will cease to spray!
