Temp Control with 2 Units Connected

CL Scott

New member
I've had a thought a will attempt an experiment. Between now and the time I add an 8+ gpm hot unit, I still would like to get the most out of my gp hammerhead surface cleaner, cleaning with the best/fastest results possible.

I have 1 hot water unit temp up to 250 w dial control thermastat (beckett burner) @ 4 gpm. I also have a simpson 2.4 cold gpm machine I'm going to connect to it.

I have the t's, fittings and hoses, here is the question I'd like some help with:

with the 4 gpm hot water machine, what temp should I set it at to reach a good hot water grimy concrete cleaning result?

No more than 200' hose (3/8"). Both units are 3000 psi.

For instance, if the starting tank water temp is 60 degrees, and I'm trying to reach 6.4gpm @ 120 degrees for degreasing power, should I set the temp at 180?

Let me know what you think... Thanks
 
Probably higher since your water supplies aren't the same GPM. An easy way to do it is to just hook the 2 together and then adjust the output temp untill you reach your desired temperature (whatever that may be).

If both of the pumps were putting out the same GPM then I'd say you're close. You may have some temp loss w/200' of hose though, but I don't think it would be much.
 
Probably higher since your water supplies aren't the same GPM. An easy way to do it is to just hook the 2 together and then adjust the output temp untill you reach your desired temperature (whatever that may be).

If both of the pumps were putting out the same GPM then I'd say you're close. You may have some temp loss w/200' of hose though, but I don't think it would be much.

Hey Red! thanks. Merry Christmas btw.

That's what I was thinking, the 4gpm is the hot water/higher volume. I guess a temp gauge is the only way to find out.
 
I would just wait on hooking 2 machines going into one coil.How are you gonna have one flow switch on the burner or how is that gonna work. I have always been a one machine one heat source kinda guy.Do you have pressure switches hooked together?
 
I run two machines through one coil. However I haven't had a chance to see what kind of temps I'll obtain running 10 GPM's. I've only been able to run one job since I added another machine inline. I was running 5.5 gpm and added 4.8 gpm . BIG difference in amount of time I saved.You will only need one switch with 2 machines. Are you using a pressure or flow switch? I use a flow switch on my burner.I didn't like the pressure switch!
 
I didn't think he was talking about running both machines through one coil. Even if he did I would think there would still be heat loss as the burner assembly is adjusted to heat 4 gpm's.
 
While I'm at it, what's a good temp range for concrete?

CL, since you're going to run 10 GPM through a heater that's built for 4 GPM I would think you'll need to run it as hot as it will go. In other words, with its smaller coil and burner the heater won't be able to produce as hot of water with 10 GPMs flowing through it.
 
The machines will tie together after the coil. Turn the thermostat all the way up. You'll need all the heat you can get because you're adding cold water to the output stream.
 
You most likely will have to up the size of your fuel tip to compensate for the extra gpm going in. Im not sure a 4gpm burner will handle almost 10 gpm with the heat rise you will need.
 
I was thinking he was talking about combining the hot and cold after the burner .... am I wrong?

You are absolutely right! I'm not sure where 10 gpm came from. I thought I made my case pretty clear. It's Christmas time (probably the egg nog!) Thanks for your help Red.

The machines will tie together after the coil. Turn the thermostat all the way up. You'll need all the heat you can get because you're adding cold water to the output stream.

Thanks Russ, this is what I was looking for.
 
You are absolutely right! I'm not sure where 10 gpm came from. I thought I made my case pretty clear. It's Christmas time (probably the egg nog!) Thanks for your help Red.



Thanks Russ, this is what I was looking for.
The 10 GPM came from my post. My set up is different from yours CL so you will not be able to set your system up like I have mine set up. I run both of my machines through the coil. My burner is much bigger than your 4GPM burner allowing for me to run 10 gpm's through mine. If I am wrong in doing that, some one please tell me why. You will have to set your system up the way Russ said. As far as your temp. settings I guess you'll have to play with it a little to find out where to start. Sorry for the confusion!
 
I wonder if any of the industry experts out there (Landa, Hotsy, Alkota, Hydrotek, etc...) done any experiments like this, "T" 2 machines together and one running hot water to see how hot it will be at the end of the hose?

I would think that they might have to see what to expect but I could be wrong.

I would get one of those laser temp guns (they sell them at Harbor Freight for about $25.00 and maybe at Northern Tool) to aim at the ground to see how hot things are when you do this so you can see exactly how hot the water is at the end of the hose.
 
I wonder if any of the industry experts out there (Landa, Hotsy, Alkota, Hydrotek, etc...) done any experiments like this, "T" 2 machines together and one running hot water to see how hot it will be at the end of the hose?

I would think that they might have to see what to expect but I could be wrong.

I would get one of those laser temp guns (they sell them at Harbor Freight for about $25.00 and maybe at Northern Tool) to aim at the ground to see how hot things are when you do this so you can see exactly how hot the water is at the end of the hose.

Like Russ said, join machines after the coil and keep the heat up at the higher setting as the additional water from the cold water unit will reduce temp.

I've joined my hot and cold together before for 10gpm and it cuts the heat down but will still blow steam from surface cleaner and melt gum.
 
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