Vanguard Engine Oil Leak

HighTide

New member
While cleaning a couple of bank branches yesterday, I noticed a little smoke coming from my trailer. Within a few more minutes, there was a lot of smoke. With the engine running, oil was running down the side of the engine in two spots. What oil didn't hit the hot muffler and became smoke, covered my diesel tank underneath. In a matter of just a few moments, the oil dropped nearly half way on the dipstick.

Is this likely the valve gasket failure or could it be something else? Hopefully, the pics can help. Thanks!
 

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Same problem last week. Is it coming from your air filter housing and breather tube? My problem was just a bit too much oil and an engine with alot of hours. Drain a little off.
 
That's the crankshaft seal behind the flywheel. Your air filter area is clean and dry, so it's not the breather. A leaky valve cover gasket will dribble down behind the sheet metal covering the cylinder. Oil from a crank seal leak slings around on the back side of the flywheel, and the force of air from the fan blows it back all over the engine.
 
Russ, for that kind of repair, "That's the crankshaft seal behind the flywheel.", what is involved, about how much time and what would it cost for that repair?

Can anyone with basic tools/skills do that repair or do you need special tools/skills?

Just wondering so if that happens to me I have a clue.

Thanks.
 
Once I saw the leak, I had a feeling that it might be more than just a leak in the valve cover. I was going to follow up to Russ with the same question on what all is involved and what a pro would roughly charge for that kind of repair. I will try to get it up to Jacksonville tomorrow for repair as I need to get back to work by Tuesday.
 
Seal = $7 - $12. Labor - 1 - 1 1/2 hrs.

Remove fan cover.
Loosen coils and slide up as high as possible. Remove starter cup and fan from flywheel. Using a flywheel puller with 5/16" bolts (harmonic balancer puller works great), remove flywheel.
Seal can usually be removed by sliding a small flat blade screwdriver between crank and seal lip, and prying down and twisting slightly, taking extreme care not to scratch the crank.
Grease inside and outside of seal, and tap in gently until flush with crankcase surface.
Reinstall flywheel, making sure to line up groove with woodruff key, fan, and starter cup. Regap coils to .010 (a business card). Reinstall fan cover.
 
Thanks for the info Russ.
 
Thanks Russ. I wish you lived in north Florida so I could bring my trailer over and get everything working right!
 
I just finished gapping a magneto, I put a .01 feeler gauge in there, but my gut instinct was a business card would be right! Would have been easier
 
V-twin head gaskets

Awww, now let's look abit closer at what went wrong before we say "all" are bad..
I rememger when we couldn't keep a muffler on a 9-13hp Honda..
they "all" sucked at that time, for a bean-counter choice..
cheap mounting studs, at the same time as a cheesier flywheel.
.. That was a flaming drag on me a$$..
I personally warranteed 2 dozen $200. repairs,
and the factory reps (Tru-Power, in CA) gave me only $15. each.. THEY suck.

A common problem that has been "eating" engines (of all makes)..
with the fuel tank on top of an engine,
it is at risk of the fuel leaking past the float valve in the carb,
leaking into the engine, pooling on tepiston, and leaking past the rings,
dilluting the oil,
and .. BLAM ! a rod goes flyin'.
.. NOT a manufacturing defect..
you forgot, or didn't think you should have to shut OFF the fuel,
after you're done using the motor.

Ona v-twin, if theres ANY fuel sitting on either of the pistons,
and you try to start it..
BLAM !! .. there goes a head gasket.

sound familliar ??
:{)
 
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Awww, now let's look abit closer at what went wrong before we say "all" are bad..
I rememger when we couldn't keep a muffler on a 9-13hp Honda..
they "all" sucked at that time, for a bean-counter choice..
cheap mounting studs, at the same time as a cheesier flywheel.
.. That was a flaming drag on me a$$..
I personally warranteed 2 dozen $200. repairs,
and the factory reps (Tru-Power, in CA) gave me only $15. each.. THEY suck.

A common problem that has been "eating" engines (of all makes)..
with the fuel tank on top of an engine,
it is at risk of the fuel leaking past the float valve in the carb,
leaking into the engine, pooling on tepiston, and leaking past the rings,
dilluting the oil,
and .. BLAM ! a rod goes flyin'.
.. NOT a manufacturing defect..
you forgot, or didn't think you should have to shut OFF the fuel,
after you're done using the motor.

Ona v-twin, if theres ANY fuel sitting on either of the pistons,
and you try to start it..
BLAM !! .. there goes a head gasket.

sound familliar ??
:{)

BLAM!! There goes me buying another Briggs product. We never had problems years ago with the V-twins and we NEVER shut the fuel off. That is a design flaw and nothing more. Briggs said we were the cause of the rod failure and wouldn't warranty anything. I'll take a muffler over a rod any day of the week.

Bottom line - I buy several new machines every year and they will always have Honda's on them here out. Even my lawn mowers.
 
BLAM!! There goes me buying another Briggs product. We never had problems years ago with the V-twins and we NEVER shut the fuel off. That is a design flaw and nothing more. Briggs said we were the cause of the rod failure and wouldn't warranty anything. I'll take a muffler over a rod any day of the week.

Bottom line - I buy several new machines every year and they will always have Honda's on them here out. Even my lawn mowers.

Greg,
I totally respect the reactionary thinking..
you experience what you experience, and you react to what you can, based on what you believe you should do, as you go.
I look at my reason for sharing in here is experience..
I take a VERY close look at every type of failure that has passed in front of me for the past 45+ years..
What you see "leads you forward" in one direction or another, as you aim at avoiding conflict, and downtime.
These chat-boards are a pool for this information to be added, mixed, and considered, to lead us ALL froward.
An opinion without experience is easily exposed to failure.
Also, there's a lot of emotion out there, obviously, from personally experienced failure.. like your Briggs experience.
All I want, for my business, is to circumvent disasters in the warrantee department,
and insure as BEST I can to help my customers GROW and profit from my leadership and collective opinion.

regarding engines.. I was burned real bad by Honda's west coast customer service skills, so I avoid giving them business,
but I have Honda, Briggs, Kohler, Kubota, and Subaru engines in my showroom, and production area right now.
I have General, COmet, and AR pumps too..

because of personal experience, everyone has thier own opinion,
..and so.. I identify what's different in noise-level, power-output, configuration,
and certainly reliability.. ..based on product failure we see in the service department,
as we try to help every customer with every make and model machine.
The days of "THAT" is a BAD engine are almost gone.. Tecumseh finally gave up several years ago,
but the chinese stuff has come in to play, and first out of the gate, were failures,
but even so, the failures seem to be lightening up.
Along with that, I try to buy American, So.. clearly, I have an opinion too.
I just keep trying to help, based on my experience, with the customer's opinion, and if they don't mind the noise, they can buy a Honda.
If they don't mind the risk of an expensive wait to fix an ignition poblem, they can buy a Kohler,
If the want easy parts availability because "ANYthing" can happen around employees.. they'll buy a Briggs or Honda.

I just refuse to sell a name-brand only because it is the most "popular". ..Things definitely change.
I refuse to lie to the customer, saying "THIS one NEVER fails".. because ANYthing can happen..
I've found paperclips in gear boxes, sand in carbs and crankcases,
I've found a beetle in the vent-tube of a carb, causing the fuel to overflow the carb,
and ALL of the competitive engine mfrs have a "reasonable level of reliability".
Take in ALL you can from these eductional forums. and consider all you can, for the best chance at reliability,
and KEEPING THE CUSTOMER. Eh?

And Greg,
Every customer service counter has it's own way of dealing with warrantee work.
Nobody, and no machine is perfect.
That's why every TOP racing team brings ALL their tools, LOTS of spare parts, and at least one spare car.
..And, the driver is a specialist in driving, the tech is a tech, and the tire-changers are REALLY good at tire changing.
I like to say "the JOBsite chooses what you need."
My job, is to help you make that happen, as best I can,
with your opinion intact, and as much insurance as we both can afford, for both of us,
and especially, a sustainable relationship with the JOBsite..
The TRUEST test of ALL our work, as a collective team, is a sustainably-profitable jobsite.
 
I agree 100% and I can look past the issue of an engine blowing a head gasket (which ours did) and blowing a crank (which again happened following the head gasket being repaired). I cannot look past the crappy customer service from the local dealer and even more so the lack of willingness to take care of an obvious "lemon" of a motor from corporate B&S. I can also understand having 1 do it... but 2? Junk (my opinion of course)!

I have 7 year old honda's that are still powering pumps to this day and the briggs 16 Vtwin barely made it through 1 season. Enough said for me. There's an issue there that they are not willing to recognize so they will forever lose my business.
 
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