What amI doing Wrong? Please Help!

I would go 65 to a 100 gallon tank unless you like to take a break and mix another 35. 35 is just 2 small for around here.


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I would go 65 to a 100 gallon tank unless you like to take a break and mix another 35. 35 is just 2 small for around here.


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What's your take on the nozzles Chris?
 
Glad to see your set up with Greg. Greg knows what he is doing. If you ever feel like taking a ride over to St Petersburg let me know. The majority of our business is roof cleaning on tile roofs. We get a few shingle here and there but mostly tile.
 
What's your take on the nozzles Chris?

Yes CL, with the 7 GPM 12 volt pump those tips are what you want. Exact setup I use, but you will deff want a larger tank. I use a 200 Gallon tank so I fill once and rock and roll all day.
 
Glad to see your set up with Greg. Greg knows what he is doing. If you ever feel like taking a ride over to St Petersburg let me know. The majority of our business is roof cleaning on tile roofs. We get a few shingle here and there but mostly tile.

Same here Larry, down here in Florida it is mostly tile roof cleanings. The shingle roof owners don't know you can remove those black streaks. When I do get shingle roofs I get almost twice as much as I get for a tile roof.
 
Same here Larry, down here in Florida it is mostly tile roof cleanings. The shingle roof owners don't know you can remove those black streaks. When I do get shingle roofs I get almost twice as much as I get for a tile roof.

Funny thing is, we did a shingle roof this afternoon after a tile roof and pool area. Guess what our first job tomorrow is....? A 4000 sq SHINGLE. Hahaha! I almost feel like we are on vacation when we do shingle roofs. Lol
 
What's your take on the nozzles Chris?

I use the J-rod that came with my fatboy. My understanding is going smaller puts strain on the system causing relay and or pump failure. I am going to try my ladder saver nozzle soon if I remember.


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3-way valve with one line feeding from your mix tank and the other from a water source (could be a buffer tank or house supply). Switch as needed.

I don't have any 12v pumps, so I'm not sure if the pressure from the house would be too much for the pump or not.
 
John (or anyone else), 7 gpm 12v pump, 35-65 gallon tank, 200 ft of hose, Am I missing anything? Of 0020 ,0030, 0040, and 0050 - which will reach the highest?

CL. The electric pumps have to have the orifice precisely matched with the pump. Too small an orifice you will burn out relays, switches or even the pump. UNLESS you install an accumulator. So whoever you buy a pump should set you up with the correct nozzles. You also need to get all 4 fan patterns and use the widest fan you can to minimize runoff. If the roof is walkable you want to use the 40 degree fan pattern. If you have to spray it from the gutterline work your application up from the bottom using the widest pattern that will get the distance you need using the 0 tip as a last choice since you will get a lot of runoff.
In my case with an air diaphram pump I can use really small orifices and keep the runoff down and save a lot of chemical. An accumulator will achieve the same results with a 12v pump.
 
Ok, so the softwash puts the strong mix on at about 60 psi... What about the rinse? Is that the same as rinsing the side?

Mast people don't rinse. " huge debate" but if your going to rinse, just send up the garden hose hooked to the house.


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John,

I owned the largest roof cleaning & soft washing company in Florida, Mallard Systems. I own SoftWash Systems now and have 30 Co-Branded / In Network companies Nationwide now. I live in Seminole County and would be glad to help you out.

AC
 
John,

I owned the largest roof cleaning & soft washing company in Florida, Mallard Systems. I own SoftWash Systems now and have 30 Co-Branded / In Network companies Nationwide now. I live in Seminole County and would be glad to help you out.

AC
I live in Volusia, I have watched a lot of your videos. The one thing i never see is you rinsing. As i drive through Seminole I see tons of homes with dark roofs. Thats all I do any more when Im driving. Its becoming an obsession.
 
Funny thing is, we did a shingle roof this afternoon after a tile roof and pool area. Guess what our first job tomorrow is....? A 4000 sq SHINGLE. Hahaha! I almost feel like we are on vacation when we do shingle roofs. Lol

Same here Larry! Shingles are a walk in the park and I love to clean them! I have 6 shingle roof cleanings on my schedule right now before the month is up. I hit the shingle roof adverting hard and have been getting a great return on them.
 
Or do I connect the 12v pump to a water supply?


Everyone has there own methods. Down here in Florida we get alot of cob webs and mudd daubers so I apply a light house wash mix with 12v and then use my pressure washer to rinse soffit, facia, siding and entry ways to remove all the cob webs and mud daubers. Also helps to neutralize all the house wash mix to not damage bushes and landscaping. But my pressure washer is dialed down to about 1500 and 2000 psi for the rinsing process.

I bang out 2500-3000 sqft houses in under 2 hours with set up, cleaning, and tear down...in and out...money in the bank lol

For roof cleaning I never rinse because I give my customers a 3 year warranty, but like I said to each there own.
 
Same here Larry, down here in Florida it is mostly tile roof cleanings. The shingle roof owners don't know you can remove those black streaks. When I do get shingle roofs I get almost twice as much as I get for a tile roof.
It should be the OTHER way around! Tile roofs are much harder to clean then shingle roof are, and can easily use 2 to 4 times the amount of roof cleaning chemical.
Like Larry said, shingle roofs are always a 'walk in the park' compared to cleaning barrel or flat tiles.

To the original poster, a downstream injector just can not get the draw rate to apply a strong enough solution to clean roofs, unless you want to get a great Suntan!
Like everyone has already said, get a dedicated chemical pump.

As far as rinsing goes, on homes w/o gutters, it is always best to rinse the roof, then to play 'russian roulette', and depend on the rain. If it rains really hard after you clean a roof, you are usually 'home free'. But, when you get a brief, 1/2 ass rain, all that chit come off the roof, onto the plants, and then guess what happens ?
All that residual roof cleaning chemical (mostly salt), comes off the roof, w/o enough water to render it harmless.
Plants get compromised, customer get pissed, and instead of referrals, you get bad reviews.

However, rinsing a roof takes time, and the chemical needs to dwell on the roof for at least 30 minutes,, to insure all the algae is killed.

A great compromise to rinsing the entire roof is this. After you are done, simply go around the roof from the ground with a high flow garden hose, like the excellent "Mean Green" 3/4 inch water hose from Factory Direct Hose, and rinse the bottom 1/3 of the roof only.

If using Tarps, keep them in place during this partial rinse, or be sure and water the plants real good before, during, and after the rinsed chemicals are coming off the roof onto them.



Experience has shown this partial rinse will prevent complete plant death disasters, but it is still even better to rinse the entire roof, though it is quite time consuming.
 
It should be the OTHER way around! Tile roofs are much harder to clean then shingle roof are, and can easily use 2 to 4 times the amount of roof cleaning chemical.
Like Larry said, shingle roofs are always a 'walk in the park' compared to cleaning barrel or flat tiles.

To the original poster, a downstream injector just can not get the draw rate to apply a strong enough solution to clean roofs, unless you want to get a great Suntan!
Like everyone has already said, get a dedicated chemical pump.

As far as rinsing goes, on homes w/o gutters, it is always best to rinse the roof, then to play 'russian roulette', and depend on the rain. If it rains really hard after you clean a roof, you are usually 'home free'. But, when you get a brief, 1/2 ass rain, all that chit come off the roof, onto the plants, and then guess what happens ?
All that residual roof cleaning chemical (mostly salt), comes off the roof, w/o enough water to render it harmless.
Plants get compromised, customer get pissed, and instead of referrals, you get bad reviews.

However, rinsing a roof takes time, and the chemical needs to dwell on the roof for at least 30 minutes,, to insure all the algae is killed.

A great compromise to rinsing the entire roof is this. After you are done, simply go around the roof from the ground with a high flow garden hose, like the excellent "Mean Green" 3/4 inch water hose from Factory Direct Hose, and rinse the bottom 1/3 of the roof only.

If using Tarps, keep them in place during this partial rinse, or be sure and water the plants real good before, during, and after the rinsed chemicals are coming off the roof onto them.



Experience has shown this partial rinse will prevent complete plant death disasters, but it is still even better to rinse the entire roof, though it is quite time consuming.

After I knockout a couple other financial priorities, I'm getting a roof cleaning system! You guys make it sound like I'm missing a good party!
 
I live in Volusia, I have watched a lot of your videos. The one thing i never see is you rinsing. As i drive through Seminole I see tons of homes with dark roofs. Thats all I do any more when Im driving. Its becoming an obsession.

No we dont rinse. We want the chems to remain behind to protect the roof and get a 100% kill ratio. Mother nature rinses the roofs regularly in Florida.

AC
 
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