engine trying to break my fingers

Connor

Connor

New member
I have a 13 HP honda, direct drive pull start. It runs like a champ, usually starts 1st or 2nd pull. But lately when I go to start it, about half of the time, its as if it back fires or something, as I am pulling the cord up it decides to yank the it back with such force, my fingers almost go with it. after I cuss it out, I pull it again and she starts right up.

Anyone know What causes that?
 
I've got one doing the exact same thing. We kept using it that way for months, until my employee complaint box overflowed. Now it is sitting in the garage for the next power toy project. We use all electric start now...
Just to let you know what to look forward to, we couldn't keep a pull rope on it for very long. Then, there are the retractable "claws" in the reel that will bend and break...
If you don't find what's wrong with it quick, be sure to have an extra reel to slap on there, or a strong power drill with large socket to start it with.
 
The symptom you describe indicates that the compression release is not working. Usually it's as simple as adjusting the exhaust valve clearance. There's a device on the camshaft that taps the exhaust valve open momentarily at TDC to allow the engine to be pulled past the compression stroke. Take the valve cover off and pull the engine over until the intake valve is open. If necessary, the spark plug can be removed to make this easier. Get a feeler gauge and check the gap between the rocker arm and the exhaust valve stem. It should be .008". If it needs to be tightened, hold the adjusting nut with a 14 mm wrench while loosening the 10 mm jamb nut. Reset the gap, retighten the jamb nut, and double check the clearance.

If readjusting the clearance doesn't work, the compression release device may be stuck or broken, requiring disassembling the engine.
 
Russ You Need to Have a maintance class on all this....I know I sure would ATTEND...
 
Russ Johnson said:
The symptom you describe indicates that the compression release is not working. Usually it's as simple as adjusting the exhaust valve clearance. There's a device on the camshaft that taps the exhaust valve open momentarily at TDC to allow the engine to be pulled past the compression stroke. Take the valve cover off and pull the engine over until the intake valve is open. If necessary, the spark plug can be removed to make this easier. Get a feeler gauge and check the gap between the rocker arm and the exhaust valve stem. It should be .008". If it needs to be tightened, hold the adjusting nut with a 14 mm wrench while loosening the 10 mm jamb nut. Reset the gap, retighten the jamb nut, and double check the clearance.

If readjusting the clearance doesn't work, the compression release device may be stuck or broken, requiring disassembling the engine.
Click to expand...

I have had this happen to me and I was right there when it was fixed. I just had NO IDEA how to explain it. Great job Russ.
 
I'm in! I think I have a lot of this figured out...but only because of answers you've given me...I think I already owe you for the class! Let me know when and where! Pumps, reducer gears, and small engines! I'll bring a broken one of each if needed!
 
That sounds like a great class to have!
 
Valves don't stay adjusted on a Honda like they used to..
thinner push-rods are bending much easier,
thinner "over-hardened" rockers are cracking..
GX series Hondas are now, over 30 years old !!
and those bean-counters still keep countin' eh?
.. Those problems, with the exhaust-studs breaking,
and the denied warrantee-claims are the reason I divorced from Honda
over 10 years ago.
 
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