update on gravity fed power washers!!

detailpowerwash

New member
Here is the best way I found to get the pressure I need from my water tank to my pressure washer...my tank is about 125 gal right here but it fills to 225 I have a pressure pro 4gal 4000psi unit belt drivin....I hope this helps a lot of you...also I'm running a 1" I.o hose to my unit. The more water the better!


Watch the video from the link below



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Agid4HxePbg&feature=youtube_gdata_player
 
I'm curious what "Belt Drive" has to do with it? That pump could be operated through a gear box and it would function the same way. If not, school me up on the subject. Inquiring minds want to know!
 
I just mention that it's belt driven for those curious what kind of unit I have....but I only got a belt driven becuase it's meant to run 40+ hrs a week and I've read it's runs slower rate but doesn't affect the pump rate...I just couldn't figure out why my unit wasn't getting any water and it was such an easy fix...not sure if all units are this way but hopefully I'm able to help someone out.
 
I just mention that it's belt driven for those curious what kind of unit I have....but I only got a belt driven becuase it's meant to run 40+ hrs a week and I've read it's runs slower rate but doesn't affect the pump rate...I just couldn't figure out why my unit wasn't getting any water and it was such an easy fix...not sure if all units are this way but hopefully I'm able to help someone out.
I had an older pump that was belt driven but not a newer model. With it being older it was a PITA to deal with concerning the belt. It's no longer in service. Our current unit is driven through a gearbox. I like it better. What was it you were blocking off in the video? Actually my question was directed at Steven who has been around a lot longer than I have And I'm sure your info will help someone.
 
Here is the best way I found to get the pressure I need from my water tank to my pressure washer...my tank is about 125 gal right here but it fills to 225 I have a pressure pro 4gal 4000psi unit belt drivin....I hope this helps a lot of you...also I'm running a 1" I.o hose to my unit. The more water the better!


Watch the video from the link below



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Agid4HxePbg&feature=youtube_gdata_player


Nice find. The reason it worked is because that plug (which is called a thermal releif valve) is not supposed to drip at all. Since it was dripping it was allowing air to get into the pump which would not let it pull water. Hence why it worked when you plugged it.
Take that off and put a 1/2" plug in and run a bypass line from your unloader to the top of the tank and you won't have any water issues with it again.
 
Nice find. The reason it worked is because that plug (which is called a thermal releif valve) is not supposed to drip at all. Since it was dripping it was allowing air to get into the pump which would not let it pull water. Hence why it worked when you plugged it.
Take that off and put a 1/2" plug in and run a bypass line from your unloader to the top of the tank and you won't have any water issues with it again.

Thanks man I struggled to figure it out! And I do have an bypass already set up if you look when I get around the pump you'll see it running into my tank, I guess it wasn't enough for it but , I guess my advice for anyone before they go thru what I went thru is try this out first but for sure set up a by pass line to your tank and atleast have a 1" I.o hose running to your pump...there is no need for a water pump in between and also be sure to remove the cap when you're done using the unit so that it allows it to leak out any remainding water as that is what it's for to begin with!!
 
I had an older pump that was belt driven but not a newer model. With it being older it was a PITA to deal with concerning the belt. It's no longer in service. Our current unit is driven through a gearbox. I like it better. What was it you were blocking off in the video? Actually my question was directed at Steven who has been around a lot longer than I have And I'm sure your info will help someone.
Actually you are right about the gear drive reducing the rpm's to the pump. The advantage with the belt drive is overall cost and reduced maintenance . Gear boxes are expensive. The gear drive will still transfer heat and vibration from the engine to the pump and they have a whining sound. Pulleys and belts are less expensive to repair and replace. Not many companies use gear boxes these days. As for being compact, Pressure Pro offers the polychain belts on some units that are compact if that is important to you. They are more expensive but very durable. I hope this helps you understand a little more. Never hesitate to contact me when you think I can be of help. As I have stated many times I started out trying to run a direct drive from a tank and just spent good money after bad trying to make it work. I keep repairing the pump. Back then there were not forums like we have now. I know we all think we can not afford to upgrade to the proper equipment only to later find out we spend more in the long run by putting it off. I kept my first machine, a direct drive as a backup. I am a firm believer in having a backup machine. This is another reason I am not a fan of a two gun machine. When it is down, you are down. If you have two machines and one breaks you can still work with the backup. Rance, with me being in the rehab stage from my shoulder consider yourself invited to come spend a day or two with us. That goes out to anyone else interested. The only drawback is I do not tour the Hooter's circuit as I did in the past. LOL! Ron and some of the rest here will agree that I love to teach those eager to learn about this industry.
 
Nice find. The reason it worked is because that plug (which is called a thermal releif valve) is not supposed to drip at all. Since it was dripping it was allowing air to get into the pump which would not let it pull water. Hence why it worked when you plugged it.
Take that off and put a 1/2" plug in and run a bypass line from your unloader to the top of the tank and you won't have any water issues with it again.
Everyone with a tank should run their bypass line back to the tank. This way you never have to worry about laying the gun down for over two minutes like I recommend with a portable machine. Consider it like a giant radiator on your car and your pump will not overheat, unless you are way low on pump oil.
 
Thanks man I struggled to figure it out! And I do have an bypass already set up if you look when I get around the pump you'll see it running into my tank, I guess it wasn't enough for it but , I guess my advice for anyone before they go thru what I went thru is try this out first but for sure set up a by pass line to your tank and atleast have a 1" I.o hose running to your pump...there is no need for a water pump in between and also be sure to remove the cap when you're done using the unit so that it allows it to leak out any remainding water as that is what it's for to begin with!!
Maybe I am missing something.Why would you want to drain out the water? I never liked to drain any water from the pump. I always liked to keep it primed. Now in the winter that is a different story.
 
Well originally when I notice I shut the machine off the remaining water would leak out so I figure just keep it that way I'm sure it's so any remaning water doesnt sit there too long and rust I guess
 
Everyone with a tank should run their bypass line back to the tank. This way you never have to worry about laying the gun down for over two minutes like I recommend with a portable machine. Consider it like a giant radiator on your car and your pump will not overheat, unless you are way low on pump oil.

Yes that's what I was saying. I do understand the concept of all this and how it works which is why I told him.
 
In Serch of a Pressure Pro 8gpm @ 3500. Debating on cart vs skid. Sometimes the trailer is 300' from the cleaning process, figured getting closer would help maintain cleaning power.
Are all Pressure Pro units bely driven?
 
Actually you are right about the gear drive reducing the rpm's to the pump. The advantage with the belt drive is overall cost and reduced maintenance . Gear boxes are expensive. The gear drive will still transfer heat and vibration from the engine to the pump and they have a whining sound. Pulleys and belts are less expensive to repair and replace. Not many companies use gear boxes these days. As for being compact, Pressure Pro offers the polychain belts on some units that are compact if that is important to you. They are more expensive but very durable. I hope this helps you understand a little more. Never hesitate to contact me when you think I can be of help. As I have stated many times I started out trying to run a direct drive from a tank and just spent good money after bad trying to make it work. I keep repairing the pump. Back then there were not forums like we have now. I know we all think we can not afford to upgrade to the proper equipment only to later find out we spend more in the long run by putting it off. I kept my first machine, a direct drive as a backup. I am a firm believer in having a backup machine. This is another reason I am not a fan of a two gun machine. When it is down, you are down. If you have two machines and one breaks you can still work with the backup. Rance, with me being in the rehab stage from my shoulder consider yourself invited to come spend a day or two with us. That goes out to anyone else interested. The only drawback is I do not tour the Hooter's circuit as I did in the past. LOL! Ron and some of the rest here will agree that I love to teach those eager to learn about this industry.
Thanks for your insight into some of the pro's and con's Steven.
 
In Serch of a Pressure Pro 8gpm @ 3500. Debating on cart vs skid. Sometimes the trailer is 300' from the cleaning process, figured getting closer would help maintain cleaning power.
Are all Pressure Pro units bely driven?

Pressure Pro makes direct drive machines. All the 8 gpm stuff is belt or polychain driven. Call me if you'd like to discuss the PP 8 gpms and pricing.
 
Well originally when I notice I shut the machine off the remaining water would leak out so I figure just keep it that way I'm sure it's so any remaning water doesnt sit there too long and rust I guess
Unless it is sitting for a few months rust should not be a problem.
 
No they actually have smaller units but it all depends on how often you plan on using it, I use many daily so I had to get abelt driven unit ...I wish I could of gotten a unit with no wheels but they are much pricer . The one I have works above par I'm happy with it!
 
I have the 4gpm cat 66dx as well. The 3rd time I used it my thermal relief valve wouldn't stop leaking. After research, it was determined to have gone bad. Northern tool sent me a new one (NC) and it's been fine ever since. Before it showed up, I connected my bypass. I thought I had 1-3 minutes before the water over heats, but I don't think so. With the bypass running to the tank, I don't think I'll need to plug it...

Here it is:

 
Back
Top