Burst Disk HydeoTek

E-P-W

New member
I was running along just like normal morning and all the sudden I heard a loud poop and lost all pressure. Come to find out the burst disk blow out.

What could have caused this to happen?


Should only the disk be replaced or is there other parts that need to be replaced along with the burst disk?
 
Could be reduced flow is allowing the water to get too hot. I have been told that a burst disc usually responds to excessive heat causing a steam pocket. Have you tried a flow test by how long it takes to fill a 5 gallon bucket without using gun or nozzles? I also recently compared the timing of water flow going through the hot water coils and the flow by-passing the coils. If they aren't the same, you may have buildup in your coils reducing flow.
 
Mine has blown on my hydrotek for no apparent reason. I replaced and it's been ok for 6 months. Everything is running like it's supposed to.

I will replace mine and see what happens.
Do you keep a spare with you?
 
Spares are a MUST.. QC o-rings, trigger-gun, teflon tape, burst discs,
even a spare unloader is smart..
if you like long-term contracts. Eh? :)

HydroTek is smart to use the burst disc, as insurance, IF YOU KEEP A SPARE.
But.. they shouldn't be necessary..
We use a regulating relief valve on the INlet of the heater, and it re-sets, so you are not waiting around for a red-label delivery. :(

Back to task at hand..
"Safety controls" do what they are supposed to do..
Assume ONLY that "something caused" it to blow out..
Get a pressure guage on the HEAD of your pump,
and be REAL carefull when you test the system again..
A blown coil can cost you coil, shell, insulation, and a week of downtime.. just because a pressure switch failed, unloader "sticky", worn fuel nozzle, fuel filter dirty,
Call a tech.. there is no replacement for experience,
nor a day of work. Eh?
 
:unsure:
Spares are a MUST.. QC o-rings, trigger-gun, teflon tape, burst discs,
even a spare unloader is smart..
if you like long-term contracts. Eh? :)

HydroTek is smart to use the burst disc, as insurance, IF YOU KEEP A SPARE.
But.. they shouldn't be necessary..
We use a regulating relief valve on the INlet of the heater, and it re-sets, so you are not waiting around for a red-label delivery. :(

Back to task at hand..
"Safety controls" do what they are supposed to do..
Assume ONLY that "something caused" it to blow out..
Get a pressure guage on the HEAD of your pump,
and be REAL carefull when you test the system again..
A blown coil can cost you coil, shell, insulation, and a week of downtime.. just because a pressure switch failed, unloader "sticky", worn fuel nozzle, fuel filter dirty,
Call a tech.. there is no replacement for experience,
nor a day of work. Eh?

+10:clapping:
I just drove 1 hour to take my Alkota hot water machine to a recommended
shop/tech. I am a pressure washer not a hot water machine tech!
After a few weeks of trying different fixes i took it to a reputable repair shop.
after talking talking to him for ten minutes and telling him what I did and another shop did, he thinks he knows whats wrong.:joyful:
 
I would like to get a couple spare burst disks. Where do you get them and how much are they? I have a 5.6 gpm, 3500 psi setup, what is the recommended burst psi rating? 5000?
 
I have them, David. Call me Tuesday and I'll get you a price. Sometimes the burst discs will blow for no apparent reason. But, as Jerry noted above, make sure there was not a malfunction to cause it to blow.
 
Spares are a MUST.. QC o-rings, trigger-gun, teflon tape, burst discs,
even a spare unloader is smart..
if you like long-term contracts. Eh? :)

HydroTek is smart to use the burst disc, as insurance, IF YOU KEEP A SPARE.
But.. they shouldn't be necessary..
We use a regulating relief valve on the INlet of the heater, and it re-sets, so you are not waiting around for a red-label delivery. :(

Back to task at hand..
"Safety controls" do what they are supposed to do..
Assume ONLY that "something caused" it to blow out..
Get a pressure guage on the HEAD of your pump,
and be REAL carefull when you test the system again..
A blown coil can cost you coil, shell, insulation, and a week of downtime.. just because a pressure switch failed, unloader "sticky", worn fuel nozzle, fuel filter dirty,
Call a tech.. there is no replacement for experience,
nor a day of work. Eh?

Does any one know if Mi_T_M uses them on thier machines we have one on a 3405 series unit that does that every once in a while we just shut it down wait about 5 mins and keep going it has done that 3 times in the last year.
 
Russ I will be giveing you a call first thing Tuesday morning to order two maybe three depending on the cost.

Do you keep them in stock for the hydro tek units?

What is your opinion why a burst disk would blow if the unit has been running without any problems?
 
Russ I will be giveing you a call first thing Tuesday morning to order two maybe three depending on the cost.

Do you keep them in stock for the hydro tek units?
Yes

What is your opinion why a burst disk would blow if the unit has been running without any problems?
Could be a fluke. As I said, I have seen them give up for no apparent reason.
 
I was running along just like normal morning and all the sudden I heard a loud poop and lost all pressure. Come to find out the burst disk blow out.

What could have caused this to happen?


Should only the disk be replaced or is there other parts that need to be replaced along with the burst disk?
Just put a plug in it and keep washing.
 
Question guys I think mine just blew out. I didnt know you can plug it and keep washing.
I was working and then shut the PW down and didnt release the pressure walked over to turn off water spigott and noticed steam out of a lil hose. Would that be the burst disc? the temp was set to 175* on the therostat. Why would the water in the tank look like a brownish/greenish color? I checked the pump oil and all is fine.The unit is a LANDA SLT
8gpm @3k psi.
 
noticed steam out of a lil hose. Would that be the burst disc?
Where is this "little hose" located?

the temp was set to 175* on the therostat. Why would the water in the tank look like a brownish/greenish color?
Is it an open trailer? Possibly algae growth?

I checked the pump oil and all is fine.The unit is a LANDA SLT
8gpm @3k psi.

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