Pump and hose vibrating. Can't find problem.

Ralph Q

New member
Well went to work this morning, and what happened? nothing, the vibration wasn't there. I got through all day until the afternoon it started again. I am starting to think it might be the water getting a little warm in the tank. It is really noticeable after putting down the wand for a minute and letting it run in bypass while I move something or go back to the truck. Also the hose sitting on the lawn super heats the water. All I know is there was no vibration for the first few hours which tells me the pumps ok. Now how to keep the water from getting warm. The water out of the tap around here is 70+ degrees.
 

Paul Kassander

New member
Could be getting some air in the bypass loop somehow, maybe after it gets warm the fittings expand and air gets in. Like Jerry mentioned if you have a thermal relif on there that can cause issues. If you can take a picture of the pump and plumbing maybe something simple will jump out at us.
 

Ralph Q

New member
Could be getting some air in the bypass loop somehow, maybe after it gets warm the fittings expand and air gets in. Like Jerry mentioned if you have a thermal relif on there that can cause issues. If you can take a picture of the pump and plumbing maybe something simple will jump out at us.

Here is the plumbing.CAM00111.jpg It's a 5.5 gpm machine. Dual fed with 3/4" hose. Been working fine for months now. I changed the unloader and things started happening. Blew out three injectors in one day. Now they work fine. IDK? Also I don't have a bypass loop, it is being sent to tank. Everything was retaped and all clamps were tightened snug.
 

tomtucson

New member
Sometimes with a worn oring or packing the pump will go back and forth getting better for a while as the make a good seal for a while and then lose it.

I'd be suspect of the plastic fittings at the pump - stainless or brass would be much safer.
 

Cleaner

New member
Ralph I'm no help here on this but is this setup in the back of a truck?If so could you post a bigger picture?I would like to see how you have it setup.I have been wanting to set up a truck with a unit in the back for just simple house washes and gutter cleanouts for a while now.
 

Kiloman

New member
My gosh what in the world Ralph keep it simple thats a lot of hoses fittings etc for a small pump like that.There are numerous places for air to be introduced into the system but if it ran good for a while sounds like trash is getting sucked into the check valves an then its clearing its self over time.Good luck with it.
 

WASH-IT H.B.

New member
Here is the plumbing.View attachment 28703 It's a 5.5 gpm machine. Dual fed with 3/4" hose. Been working fine for months now. I changed the unloader and things started happening. Blew out three injectors in one day. Now they work fine. IDK? Also I don't have a bypass loop, it is being sent to tank. Everything was retaped and all clamps were tightened snug.

My word that looks complicated!! To many worm drive hose clips, Looks like a 1 inch line off the tank. why have the filter on the outlet? {= restriction} to the pump. Put it on the supply side and don't let the crap into your system in the first place. The return from the unloaded looks kind of small diameter wise. Are you sure the unloader isn't bouncing while you are using the gun. If your bypass is working properly there shouldn't be an heat build up in the water. I have a 40 litre tank on my unit and I can let the machine idle for 20 minutes and there is no build up of heat in the water. Something really strange going on it your water is heating. I have an 1 1/2 feed from my tank to the pump no restrictions.
Just a small point. You need to be sure you don't over use PTFE tape. That stuff is dynamite if a strand of it gets into your system. Blocks valves, fouls seats all round bad news unless you are real fussy with it. I prefer the liquid version of it in a tube.
 

Sirocco Jerry

Active member
the 90degr. Hose Barb at the beltGuard side of the pump looks torqued.. is it cross-threaded ??
..even if the tapeJob doesn't leak, it is still possible that the threads suck air, when the water tank is Low..
BTW.. that's what changed.. you refilled the tank. LOL
 

Ralph Q

New member
the 90degr. Hose Barb at the beltGuard side of the pump looks torqued.. is it cross-threaded ??
..even if the tapeJob doesn't leak, it is still possible that the threads suck air, when the water tank is Low..
BTW.. that's what changed.. you refilled the tank. LOL

The tank was full the whole time. But I guess the consensus is in, too much stuff going on. Maybe later on this afternoon I will get some new plumbing and start over. Well see what happens on my first driveway this morning.
 

Ralph Q

New member
Ralph I'm no help here on this but is this setup in the back of a truck?If so could you post a bigger picture?I would like to see how you have it setup.I have been wanting to set up a truck with a unit in the back for just simple house washes and gutter cleanouts for a while now.
Yeah that's a truck mounted machine. I got rid of my other truck and trailer when I gave up landscaping. Got a truck with a full sized bed and it works great. I travel far some times, and dragging around the trailer wasn't going to cut it anymore. I will snap a pic later. I mainly only do driveways and small stuff, and I still have room to carry all my gutter cleaning stuff. I can also fit my spare washer on there and tie them together for 10 gpm if need be.
 

Christopher

Moderator
Get rid of the plastic hose barbs, those white plastic fittings are probably nylon which love to crack where you cannot see the crack, go and get brass which will last you almost forever. I have had a lot of white plastic fittings break soon after putting them into service until I realized that they just don't last out in the real world and replaced all with brass or black poly but mostly brass.

Get rid of the clear polybraid, it will collapse easily, especially on warm or hot days, that is probably your problem along with the nylon fittings.

Do not buy galvanized or plain steel fittings as they will rust quickly and give chunks of rusty metal to your pump and help ruin it soon.

I would run 1" line from the tank to the filter and then "T" it to both sides of the pump if you want to but Being only 5.5gpm, I would use 1" all the way to the pump and then it reduces at the pump, been doing that for a while now and no issues.

I would also run a larger stainer/filter, open it up and take a look, a lot of times you can have trash stuck in there and not flush out, open it up and take a look in there and see if it is clean.

Being in the south like I am, open up your tank and see if you have algae growing inside it, the algae will break off and clog your screen fast and that stuff will not flush out, I like the big bowl screen filters so I can see the trash in there and know when to clean it.

Unloaders can be bad when new, if you have another try it if the other stuff does not work. My Hotsy had an AL607 unloader on it and it lasted 7 years, then now I have to change it out every year or less, they just don't make quality like they used to just like everything else. I like that unloader because it fits in the small place.

Hope this helps.
 

Ralph Q

New member
Got thru a pool deck and driveway, no problems. I did put a new (temporary) hose barb where Jerry pointed out that it looked cross threaded. It was! I'm gonna go with a little piece of teflon tape probably got stuck on one or more of the valves. There was a little piece dangling inside the hose barb, when I took it off. Hopefully the problem won't come back.
 

Cleaner

New member
Yeah that's a truck mounted machine. I got rid of my other truck and trailer when I gave up landscaping. Got a truck with a full sized bed and it works great. I travel far some times, and dragging around the trailer wasn't going to cut it anymore. I will snap a pic later. I mainly only do driveways and small stuff, and I still have room to carry all my gutter cleaning stuff. I can also fit my spare washer on there and tie them together for 10 gpm if need be.

Thanks Ralph
 

GrassButler

New member
Got thru a pool deck and driveway, no problems. I did put a new (temporary) hose barb where Jerry pointed out that it looked cross threaded. It was! I'm gonna go with a little piece of teflon tape probably got stuck on one or more of the valves. There was a little piece dangling inside the hose barb, when I took it off. Hopefully the problem won't come back.

If you can't find Brass elbows, fitting etc locally, or don't have the time to source them.. I have had good luck or ding them through amazon... ( prime = 2days )!!
 

Ralph Q

New member
OK blew two hoses in the past two days, now the vibration is back. Definitely something wrong. Does anyone know what size socket do I need to get at the valves?
 

Ralph Q

New member
Is it the general?
If so you'll need a 30mm or a 1 3/16" socket. Long ratchet or breaker bar too.
Exactly right. Got at the valves. No problem in there. They look brand new. The o-rings are perfect. Next I have to check the seals I guess. I am wondering if it is the unloader. All these problems started right after I put the new one on.
 
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