Suspected Ice Damage to Pump Head

S

snagtooth

New member
I did a couple of jobs today and every time I pulled away from where I was parked running my machine I noticed a decent sized drip puddle. Looked a little closer and it seemed like the inlet line to the pump head was weeping so I tightened it (it was a little loose). Next stop it was leaking even worse so I pulled it into my storage space and pulled the head off. Here is what I found, still not sure on exactly where the leak is coming from.

View attachment 26815View attachment 26816

So a few mornings ago I was trying to get going early, I had the trailer outside for a couple of days with RV antifreeze throughout all lines....Tried to start it and saw the whole pump twist on the frame (like it was fully locked up and the belt was trying to rip it off it's mount) Opened my bowl filter and it was all froze up, it was like a hawaiian shaved ice consistency. So as you can see in the second pic I cracked a plunger and all the brass/copper? spacers are crushed and broken. The spacers and plunger I had spares, so no biggy but what has me baffled is the valve plugs on the inlet side all have broken threads. Some were broke as it came out, others were intact but running my fingers over them broke them off. Do you think that the expanding ice could have caused that? Everything else looks fine, valves look brand new, pressure side valve caps are all intact, just seems kinda weird.

So, What's your thoughts? And Russ do you have any of these you could sell me asap or anyone else have them in stock? Need to get up and going asap, thank you in advance for the help.

Pump is AR, RK15.28HN
 

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Who makes that blow out adapter/valve? I know I've seen it on one of the distributer's websites. Or is there an easy way to put one inline? I have a gate valve right outside by tank, if I could fab something up right after that it would be money. Schrader Valve or?
 
Yep, the ice got you. Could have screwed up the manifold too. I can get you any parts you need for it. Call me in the AM.
 
Maybe another word of warning, try to move the pump pulley by hand. I have had a frozen pump before but always checked it by hand, if it didn't move the kerosene heater got put on the pump to 10 mins. Didn't start the engine until I could move the pump by hand.

Sorry to hear about the loss, its always a kick in the gut when something happens like this.
 
snagtooth said:
And Russ do you have any of these you could sell me asap
Pump is AR, RK15.28HN
Click to expand...

First, the RK15.28 is $380.18

The valves - $35.39
Seals - $66.06
Piston kit (all 3 plus all the washers, o rings, etc) - $110.45

Parts to replace 1 piston:
Washer - $0.37
Piston - $37.56
Slinger washer - $0.37
O ring - $.37
Backup ring - $0.56

Valve caps - $6.21 each
Cap o rings - $0.81 each
Bare manifold - $262.19
Complete manifold assembly - $363.40 (does not include pistons)
 
So, just use a small air compressor to blow out the pump and hose? I'm in Alabama, but it will still get down to the low 20's a couple of nights this winter. For the most part we stay in the 30's though.
 
samstewart1979 said:
So, just use a small air compressor to blow out the pump and hose? I'm in Alabama, but it will still get down to the low 20's a couple of nights this winter. For the most part we stay in the 30's though.
Click to expand...

Sam, you better get the air compressor ready......it's going to be COLD tonight
 
If you have a hot water skid, make sure you get the water out of the coil, that is probably $1000 more or less to spend if you get a bust in the coil.

I had to remove the hoses from the inlet and outlet and hold the air compressor cone fitting against the coil and let it blow the water out, I blew air in both ends to try to get all the water out of the coil and then through the hoses on the reels and supply hose and emptied the water tank just to be safe.

I think one of the guys put some "T"'s into the lines and put air fittings onto the middle of the "T" so they can push air through the system when needed, just have to block off the middle part of the "T" when not in use so water does not spray everywhere.
 
If the head is damaged from the ice check with General and see if they will warranty it. I had this happen years ago when I first went in the business. General covered the head for free.

Best to always blow out the lines, I have tried antifreeze, wiper fluid and sllep much better when I blow out the lines with air.

The power and force of water freezing is amazing.

Patrick Feehan
Tri-County Pressure Washing
Toledo, Ohio 43613
 
Thanks for the picture Pat.That really helps.
 
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